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Info on a lathe

joehunt1

Plastic
Joined
Sep 25, 2014
Sorry in advance for my ignorance.
I'm after some info on a lathe I'm looking at the.
It's a model A
Catalog # CL 644 R
Serial # C12350KARN
I would like to know the year, I'm not sure of the head stock bearing type. Just from what I've seen the Catalog number is for a 9" but the serial number is for a light 10" but I'm not sure. Is there any specific things I should be looking for. The lathe has been sitting for some time any thing to do before startup. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Joe
 
Does the tailstock have a micrometer dial? Are there wipers on the tailstock?those are features of 10ks.

also IIRC my 10Ks tailstock quill was marked in .100" increments while my 9" was marked in .125" increments...memory could be off though.

pics always help as there are a lot of machines out there that have been assembled from parts from other 9" and 10Ks since most parts will interchange between them.

ie- a 10K that had a broken gearbox someone replaced with one from a 9"
 
yeah, should be bronze bearings. The iron bearing ones had the oiler on the top, bronze has it on the front.
 
yeah, should be bronze bearings. The iron bearing ones had the oiler on the top, bronze has it on the front.

Correction, the early models had oilers on the top. From about 1939 on, they were on the front. My 1942 has them on the front. And it is definitely a cast bearing. Not sure when they started the changeover. I believe all the 10K's were bronze as well as the under drive 9N. But only the late-model rear drive 9N, had the bronze bearings. Unless the bed has been changed, the serial number should tell us when it was made.

Stay safe and have fun.

Joe.
 
What is the best procedure to check the headstock bearings? I'm thinking that it should probably be dismantled and cleaned out before running. I haven't check with an indicator but there seems to be no play in the headstock by hand.
Joe
 
For now I think the best procedure to check your bearing is to simply fill the cups with fresh ISO22 oil and see how it runs/cuts...then read all you can,learn about the machine and if any adjustment is warranted you go in armed with knowledge instead of flying blind.

Very simple to make adjustments but by the same token very easy to cause irreparable damage....it *seems* to be a very late model 9"- possibly one of the last made, it has ALL the goodies going for it...large dials,taper attachment,detent style reverser,long bed, collet set up, adjustable bed foot,etc...be a shame to damage it for no reason.

If you can post a good shot of that serial number at the tailstock end of the bed it might help too.

If there proves to be an issue by all means hop on eBay and buy the rebuild book, study it and ask questions as you go.
 
okay, now we can tell you something about your lathe. The Lathe bed was Sold approximately 1966, as a 10K lathe. However you have a 9N. so, this might be called a Franken lathe. As far as the headstock,and the rest of the lathe goes, that is an unknown. Unless you can find another serial number on the machine, which is unlikely unless the person who replaced the bed stamped it somewhere, We can only make a guess by looking at various parts of the machine. For instance the type of headstock bearings and such. We can make a reasonable guess that it was made After 1950, Because of the plunger type reversing lever. But without looking at the headstock closely, this would only be a guess. People modify the old had stocks to use this type of reversing labor. I've modified my 1947 9N, to use this plunger Gear shifter. There may be other clues to its true age here and there, but you have to take detailed pictures of everything, And post some of them. And if you're planning on restoring it, you need to do that anyway.

stay safe and have fun.

Joe.
 
Hi guy
Went to pickup this lathe today and see the motor run. I brought a dial with me to check the head stock. I ended up leaving it there, a little over .004 in each bearing. Not sure if that could be adjusted out or not? From what I've read supposed to be .001 to .002. On cast bearings which I'm pritty sure it has. So I wasn't going to risk it. The variable speed drive seemed to work great once.
I'm a little bummed about l, was looking forward to bringing it home.
Joe
 
You Can adjust the bearings. .004 is not bad. You might adjust that out by making sure the bolts at the top of each bearing is tight. Otherwise there is a shim pack under each bolts, Where the bearing splits. It is a laminated shim pack. You can carefully peel off a thin layer to adjust the thickness of the shim pack.

However, you cannot pass or condemn the bearings because of this. Carefully rotate the Chuck several turns, with the belt loose. what you are feeling for is any roughness in the bearings. This is a good indicator. But the best test is to remove the spindle and inspect the bearings. This is the only way to be assured that there is no major damage to the spindle/bearings. There is also a thrust bearing, to check It, apply pressure to the Chuck, Toward the left side of the machine and spend the Chuck. you are checking for any roughness in this bearing. And you can only feel it if you apply enough force toward the back of the spindle. you also want to disengage the pulley from the bullgear, by pulling the locking pin. While holding the pulley, Spin the Chuck, the pulley should feel smooth and free. Also Spin the backgear, make sure it spins freely. And remember to Inspect all gears to make sure there are no broken teeth.

stay safe and have fun, And good luck on finding a lathe.

Joe.
 
You may want to go back and look at the lathe more, promacjoe had a good post on what to look for.
The bearing caps on that lathe could be just not tight,?? or needs a shim removed..
 
Thanks a lot for all the info guys. After I got my work done today I went and picked up the lathe. I got it home and snugged the caps like promacjoe said to do I'm now just over a thousandth on the chuck side and just unber two thousandths on the left side. The left one was almost loose. Couldn't be happier and the bearings seemed round same clearance in both directions. I'm going to pull it apart and clean it up still and check the wicks.
Thanks again for all the help.

Also just wanted to see what you guys think about this? Maybe this is why the numbers are not right on this machine?

 
Although I do not know anything about that company, It was common practice for the distributor to put their logo somewhere on the machine. Although I have not seen a logo on a gearbox plate. Having said that I doubt it has anything to do with the serial number discrepancy. South Bend had a standard serial number arrangement that they developed in later years. This numbering system identified the lathe When purchasing parts. Allowing the manufacturer to know which version of the lathe they were dealing with. For instance if you broke your tailstock clamping plate, and wanted to order a new one, The serial number would tell them which one to send you. The 1947 So-called intermediate bid Lathe was not quite as wide in between the ways as the earlier models. And from what I understand the later models as well. Any deviation from this basic numbering scheme Would be confusing to say the least. However extra characters/Symbols were used, But normally not by South Bend. For instance the U.S. Navy Included an anchor symbol on their machines. In fact each branch of the military would add their own symbols to identify the machine as belonging to that branch of the military. Large companies that purchased these machines may also add their company logo/name to the machine to help identify it as belonging to that company. Part of their inventory control. The only way you can really tell is to purchase a serial number card from South Bend. Although I suspect that it will give you the same information that we already suspect. the Lathebed is from a 10K, but the rest of the Lathe is a 9N. and without knowing the original serial number, There is not much more information we can give you. As you take it apart and clean it, take pictures and post them here. Maybe we can give you some insight of what model lathe you really have. For instance the headstock bearings in the main casting changed over the years. From a solid bearing, to a segmented bearing, to a bronze bearing. We know about what time these changes were made and this will narrow down the year that it was made. But we will probably never pinpointed exactly.

I'm glad you're happy with the machine, if you need any more help, please don't hesitate to ask. Someone will try to help you. Whether this is your first Lathe or just your first South Bend Lathe, you will have a lot to learn. Fortunately these are relatively simple machines, but well-made. some of these machines are still going after 100 years. If you're careful and follow the advice given on this board, your machine should Give you a lifetime of enjoyment.

stay safe and have fun.

Joe.
 








 
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