intro and 2 new South Bend 16x60

I've been visiting this forum for years as a resource, and have just found the opportunity to post. I run a small contraction/ fabrication business in Philadelphia Pa, and have just moved into several thousand square feet of shop space that I own. So, with all the space, there's no reason to turn down big machines. I went to look at a SB 16x60 to replace my little SB 9" (ways are worn, actually the whole thing is worn) and when I got there they had 2 of the 16x60 machines. As they were only letting half of the tooling go with each machine, and I wanted it all, I made a deal to buy both. They were bought new here in Philly by the son of the man that sold them to me, back in 1963, and actually were sold by W.B. RAPP machine. Ironically that was at 132 n 3rd street, about a mile from my house. One machine ( 11334HKX15) has a 2 3/8-6 thread spindle which I know is an oddball, and I got a full collet set, and part of a taper attachment with it. All of the wheels have little to no backlash, but it has damage to the front way right under the spindle. Bah. The other (10817HKX15) came with a 3 jaw chuck, steady and follow rest, several tool holders, chuck for the tailstock, and several live centers. The machine is cleaner, the ways are very clean and nice, but the wheels all have some backlash. This is probably the machine I'll keep. The chuck is stuck on, so there's no way to know if it's also the odd 2 3/8" spindle, and I've not figured how to tackle that yet. Both are flat belt, 3hp, 3 phase, and I've ordered a VFD to run one. I'll work on getting some pics up tonight. Can anyone shed some info on if the 16's all had the 2 3/8 spindle, or did they also have a 2 1/4? And, are the classifieds here a decent place to advertise my SB 9"? It's in need of TLC but has many accessories.
Thanks, SD

Hi Bad, your 16" lathes and others of 1960 vintage with threaded spindle had a thread of 2.375" x 6 tpi. I believe a "D" series spindle was available, and perhaps a "L" taper spindle as well. Others more knowledgeable than myself
can confirm or deny these spindle options.
As far as your stuck chuck goes, spray PB Blaster or Kroil on the spindle where the chuck back plate meets the spindle hub, and spray through the chuck from the jaw end so the spray can get to the front of the threads. Let it soak a couple days, spraying it every day. I helped a friend out by welding a 2" nut to a piece of mechanical tubing, inserted the nut in the 3 jaw, and smacked the tubing with a heavy "dead blow" mallet and it came loose.
He had soaked it and could not loosen it. I do not recommend engaging the back gear to lock the spindle. If you do engage it, FINESSE is what's called for. You can also try a little heat from a propane torch on the back plate thread area. Enjoy your lathes and good luck. PB

Here's the lathe I'm keeping where it's been sitting since the 70's.

Loaded. Having a flat deck over trailer makes things easy.

brochures from when it was new

RAPP

Here's the chip in the ways, it's ugly. Though, I quickly stuck a mag base on the carriage, using a dial indicator on the flat way as I moved the carriage over the chip it reads steady, so maybe it doesn't affect accuracy.

SD

Just take a stone and break the edges around the chip and it will be fine. Looks like it might have hardened ways.
Are there any "frosting" or "sea gulling" (scraper) marks on the v-way right in front of the headstock above the quick change gearbox?

Badwuthusernames, I'm trying to figure out how to send you a private message on a mobile devise but cannot.

I may be interested in your 9, depending. If you want to PM me the details.

message sent, thnx.

packardbill said:

Just take a stone and break the edges around the chip and it will be fine. Looks like it might have hardened ways.
Are there any "frosting" or "sea gulling" (scraper) marks on the v-way right in front of the headstock above the quick change gearbox?

Click to expand...

I would have to say in my opinion this is bad advice. I think I would fill it with epoxy level with the machined surface. This will give the wiper a surface to seal on, with that big old divot there the wiper will not stop chips getting under the carriage.

moonlight machine said:

I would have to say in my opinion this is bad advice. I think I would fill it with epoxy level with the machined surface. This will give the wiper a surface to seal on, with that big old divot there the wiper will not stop chips getting under the carriage.

Click to expand...

Yes, a better fix. PB

Easiest method i've found to get the chuck off is to uniformly heat the chuck and the spindle. let the heat soak in, don't worry about the spindle heating up.

Then stuff an ice cube in the spindle, while applying torque to the chuck.

Thanks for the info. I'll pass on the info about the chip to the new owner whenever it is sold. As for my machine, the heat and ice cube trick sound good and I'll give it a try. I spent some time on it, with and without the gears locked and it's pretty tight. I gave it a soak with some kroil and called it a day. It seems the 2 3/8"-6 chucks are still available, just pricey. I think the change to a different style spindle and chucks would be as or more expensive, so I'm keeping what I have for now and adding tools as I need them. I did order the VFD and will have these powered up by next week. About the ways, there is no frosting anywhere, so does this mean they are hardened? What is the good and bad of that?
Last, where is a good place to order a new flat belt for these?
Thanks for the help, this site is great.

yes, hardened beds...very good thing.

Here is a source for backplates...

shars.com - Lathe Chucks Adapter Back Plates

Oh, and I sent you a message.