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Leeson 110 Motor Hookup Questions

bradjacob

Titanium
Joined
Nov 18, 2008
Location
Easton, PA
Got the motor yesterday. Looks like a quality motor! I've got some questions.

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The wiring diagram shows two branches.

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From the motor, "T8" is coupled with "T9" and another "T8". This other "T8" extends out from the wire nut. I'm taking that (this) is what is supposed to be the "final" T8 wire?

t9.jpg


Here, I've grouped the wires into (3) groups - as show in the wiring diagram.
- Left group: (T1, T3, T8)
- Middle group: 2 wires labeled "P1" & "P2" (diagram doesn't mention these wires?)
- Right group: (T2, T4, T5)

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In these picture(s) you can see my Cutler-Hammer drum-switch.

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diagram.jpg


So my question(s) are:

1. The wiring diagram groups some wires into two leads. I'm taking it that one "group" goes to the hot side and the other goes to the neutral side.

2. The diagram does not explain incorporating a drum switch - so do these wires get connected to different LUGS of the switch?

3. Do I need to take those jumper wires out, keep them, or re-route them? If so, where?

4. Which wire goes to which LUG on the switch?

5. Do I need to connect a separate ground wire to the motor and then the switch (if so what LUG?)

6. What kind/gauge wire do I use for the plug?

7. What LUGS do I connect the wires (from the plug) to on the switch?

IMPORTANT:

My original motor has a 3/4" shaft. This one has a 5/8". Where do I get a sleeve/adapter online? THere are no local motor places in my area that has any?


As you can see, I'm pretty electrically DUMB. I'm a bit confused and can benefit from any help possible.
 
Last edited:
motor...

#1 yes on low voltage{110 vac} one lead hot other neutral..
#6 I would use 12 gauge wire..
take a photo of the name plate on the motor and post it here..for more information..
that is a very good motor, made for use in food plants and wash rooms that get wet....
 
The wires P1 and P2 are most likely wired to the thermal protection switch that is
visible in the photo, inside the junction box.

Your final wiring setup will probably be using the jumpers in the drum switch, as
they are wired up right now. Don't take them out.
 
It's a call actually. If you go to use them it will mean two more wires from the
motor wiring housing (aka, "peckerhead") to the drum switch, because you would
want to put the thermal switch in series with the hot lead feed into the switch.

However.

The failure mode here is that you are cutting on the machine, the motor overheats
for whatever reason, and the thermal cutout opens up. You go "huh" and begin
to troubleshoot the problem - without switching the drum switch off. While
you're deep into the guts of the problem, the motor cools off enough, the switch
closes back up, and the thing re-starts, chopping you to shreds.

Now there's a lot of "ifs" in the above scenario, but as a wost-case, it sorta fits
the bill. Of course everyone knows to unplug equipment before working on it,
or at least turn it OFF. But the above setup is why OSHA wants that thermal
protect device to trip a contactor so the motor cannot possibly re-start.

So if you worried about the motor overheating and setting the place on fire
if the lathe is running when you are not around (????) you could wire it up to the
incoming power feed. Knowing that you have to lock out and tag out the
machine if you go to work on it and all.

If you do decide to wire it up then you will need two more wires in the connection
as mentioned. One nice way to tie the drum switch to the peckerhead is to use
liquidtite conduit which holds up a lot better than several pieces of SJ cord taped
together to get the required number of conductors. You can run number 14 THHN
wire in half inch liquid-tite conduit, enough conductors to do all what you want to do.
 
I am surprised that they use all the same colour insulators.

I need to get in and tidy up my wiring. At some point the elbow and switch all went MIA, and the previous owner had a switch mounted on the wall behind the machine but no reversing switch. He did pop in a nice new 1.5 HP 110 motor though.

Jim
 
drum switch

In order to use that switch without disturbing the jumpers that are soldered in it,you will need to make the following connections.


1- All non current carrying components are connected to the ground or green wire
2-T1&T3 go to terminal 2
3-T5 goes to terminal 5
4-T8 goes to terminal 8
5-L1 goes to terminal 3&6 (black hot)
6-L2 goes to terminal 9 (white neutral)
7-T2&T4 go to terminal 9

You will need a junction box somewhere on the lathe to actually acomplish the connections because if you connect all those wires on the actual terminals of the switch the cover wont go on.Use stranded wire and ring tongue insulated lugs to make it easy.I assume you still have the pan head screws that came with the switch.Your line cord and the two conduits going to the motor and the switch all meet at the box.All the grounds come back there and connect to the same ground screw in the box.
 








 
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