Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    bradjacob's Avatar
    bradjacob is offline Stainless
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Easton, PA
    Posts
    1,784

    Default Leeson 110 Motor Hookup Questions

    Got the motor yesterday. Looks like a quality motor! I've got some questions.



    The wiring diagram shows two branches.



    From the motor, "T8" is coupled with "T9" and another "T8". This other "T8" extends out from the wire nut. I'm taking that (this) is what is supposed to be the "final" T8 wire?



    Here, I've grouped the wires into (3) groups - as show in the wiring diagram.
    - Left group: (T1, T3, T8)
    - Middle group: 2 wires labeled "P1" & "P2" (diagram doesn't mention these wires?)
    - Right group: (T2, T4, T5)



    In these picture(s) you can see my Cutler-Hammer drum-switch.









    So my question(s) are:

    1. The wiring diagram groups some wires into two leads. I'm taking it that one "group" goes to the hot side and the other goes to the neutral side.

    2. The diagram does not explain incorporating a drum switch - so do these wires get connected to different LUGS of the switch?

    3. Do I need to take those jumper wires out, keep them, or re-route them? If so, where?

    4. Which wire goes to which LUG on the switch?

    5. Do I need to connect a separate ground wire to the motor and then the switch (if so what LUG?)

    6. What kind/gauge wire do I use for the plug?

    7. What LUGS do I connect the wires (from the plug) to on the switch?

    IMPORTANT:

    My original motor has a 3/4" shaft. This one has a 5/8". Where do I get a sleeve/adapter online? THere are no local motor places in my area that has any?


    As you can see, I'm pretty electrically DUMB. I'm a bit confused and can benefit from any help possible.
    Last edited by bradjacob; 01-29-2011 at 05:56 PM. Reason: Oversize images -- please see guidelines

  2. #2
    TimW(PA) is offline Aluminum
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Western, PA
    Posts
    85

    Default

    Here is a link to a discussion on wiring a leeson motor that sounds similar to yours.
    Electric Motors: Leeson 115/230 wiring, Single phase electric motor repair shop in Kansas CIty Missouri 64106, 64141

    And this is a crude hand drawn diagram of my setup.

    Lathe :: Drum Switch Wiring picture by tgwags69 - Photobucket

    My drum switch is a little different than yours but i;m pretty sure it would be wired the same from your diagram. All the drum switch is doing is to just switch T5 and T8.

  3. #3
    packrat2's Avatar
    packrat2 is offline Hot Rolled
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    518

    Default motor...

    #1 yes on low voltage{110 vac} one lead hot other neutral..
    #6 I would use 12 gauge wire..
    take a photo of the name plate on the motor and post it here..for more information..
    that is a very good motor, made for use in food plants and wash rooms that get wet....

  4. #4
    OldMachinist's Avatar
    OldMachinist is offline Cast Iron
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Nashville, IL USA
    Posts
    342

    Default

    You can get the split bushing to adapt your motor shaft here Arbors, Shaft Extenders, Couplers and Reducing Bushings or any heating and cooling repair place should have them.

  5. #5
    bradjacob's Avatar
    bradjacob is offline Stainless
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Easton, PA
    Posts
    1,784

    Default

    Thanks fellas, this is helpful info. I also got some really good info from the guys at South Bend Saturday

  6. #6
    jim rozen is online now Diamond
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    peekskill, NY
    Posts
    21,540

    Default

    The wires P1 and P2 are most likely wired to the thermal protection switch that is
    visible in the photo, inside the junction box.

    Your final wiring setup will probably be using the jumpers in the drum switch, as
    they are wired up right now. Don't take them out.

  7. #7
    bradjacob's Avatar
    bradjacob is offline Stainless
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Easton, PA
    Posts
    1,784

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jim rozen View Post
    The wires P1 and P2 are most likely wired to the thermal protection switch that is visible in the photo, inside the junction box.
    Jim - should I just cap-off those two wires then?

  8. #8
    jim rozen is online now Diamond
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    peekskill, NY
    Posts
    21,540

    Default

    It's a call actually. If you go to use them it will mean two more wires from the
    motor wiring housing (aka, "peckerhead") to the drum switch, because you would
    want to put the thermal switch in series with the hot lead feed into the switch.

    However.

    The failure mode here is that you are cutting on the machine, the motor overheats
    for whatever reason, and the thermal cutout opens up. You go "huh" and begin
    to troubleshoot the problem - without switching the drum switch off. While
    you're deep into the guts of the problem, the motor cools off enough, the switch
    closes back up, and the thing re-starts, chopping you to shreds.

    Now there's a lot of "ifs" in the above scenario, but as a wost-case, it sorta fits
    the bill. Of course everyone knows to unplug equipment before working on it,
    or at least turn it OFF. But the above setup is why OSHA wants that thermal
    protect device to trip a contactor so the motor cannot possibly re-start.

    So if you worried about the motor overheating and setting the place on fire
    if the lathe is running when you are not around (????) you could wire it up to the
    incoming power feed. Knowing that you have to lock out and tag out the
    machine if you go to work on it and all.

    If you do decide to wire it up then you will need two more wires in the connection
    as mentioned. One nice way to tie the drum switch to the peckerhead is to use
    liquidtite conduit which holds up a lot better than several pieces of SJ cord taped
    together to get the required number of conductors. You can run number 14 THHN
    wire in half inch liquid-tite conduit, enough conductors to do all what you want to do.

  9. #9
    cooncatbob's Avatar
    cooncatbob is offline Hot Rolled
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Carmichael, Calif.
    Posts
    681

    Default

    I used the liquid-tite conduit made for a very neat installation.

  10. #10
    cledry is offline Aluminum
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Orlando, Florida
    Posts
    64

    Default

    I am surprised that they use all the same colour insulators.

    I need to get in and tidy up my wiring. At some point the elbow and switch all went MIA, and the previous owner had a switch mounted on the wall behind the machine but no reversing switch. He did pop in a nice new 1.5 HP 110 motor though.

    Jim

  11. #11
    k3vyl is offline Hot Rolled
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    newark DE USA
    Posts
    766

    Default drum switch

    In order to use that switch without disturbing the jumpers that are soldered in it,you will need to make the following connections.


    1- All non current carrying components are connected to the ground or green wire
    2-T1&T3 go to terminal 2
    3-T5 goes to terminal 5
    4-T8 goes to terminal 8
    5-L1 goes to terminal 3&6 (black hot)
    6-L2 goes to terminal 9 (white neutral)
    7-T2&T4 go to terminal 9

    You will need a junction box somewhere on the lathe to actually acomplish the connections because if you connect all those wires on the actual terminals of the switch the cover wont go on.Use stranded wire and ring tongue insulated lugs to make it easy.I assume you still have the pan head screws that came with the switch.Your line cord and the two conduits going to the motor and the switch all meet at the box.All the grounds come back there and connect to the same ground screw in the box.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •