Not to start a pissing contest but there is no reason to scrape the bed to hold oil.
Send the lathe bed out to get the surfaces reground according to the precision you're willing to pay for, but the semi-steel of the 1941 era lathes is so soft, you could get it back into alignment in a weekend with 600 grit sandpaper. (ok, that was a joke, supposed to be funny)
Aside from trying to get the distance between the lathe bed inverted V ways to fit the carriage without scraping the carriage, (since its worn in usually only one area, do you want the original center distance or the distance the carriage is now?) none of the surfaces are critical, everything else can be reworked for much less effort.
if the 7 surfaces are ground correctly, i don't think you need to rescrape the headstock. the tailstock has to be lifted up and if you don't want to use shims, you could lower the headstock and that would require irreversible metal removal. but i would just as soon suggest you lift the tailstock with turcite or other material, and lift the headstock to match the tailstock. if you do lift the tailstock and or carriage with turcite, you only need to remove just a few thousanths of an inch of turcite to get the thing back into alignment. the material you will need to remove is according to the variable thickness of epoxy used to secure the turcite to the cast iron, if you smeared it on the surfaces nicely and clamped the parts together properly there is no significant material to remove.(i suppose the variable thickness of the turcite itself is a theoretical problem) but you will have to correct the misalignment of the original surfaces. As you probably know, getting the last .001" of alignment takes just as much effort as the first .010".
anyhow my point is if you take the headstock off a lathe, epoxy on turcite, clamp it back down, on a good day you only have about .001" of material to remove to get it fitted correctly. if the headstock is a foot long, you might be tempted to just live with .001" of taper per foot.
What i did was lift the headstock with adjustable screws. once i was satisfied with the alignment i just slobbered some 5 minute epoxy on those surfaces, waited a day and then tightened the bolts to hold the headstock on. i had to redo this the first time. Pulling the spindle out an inch or two (with chuck attached), and slamming it into the headstock with modest effort broke those epoxy joints without any chance of damage(epoxy doesn't stick to cast iron soaked in oil for years anyways). (BTW, when i did this the thrust bearing was removed, low velocity, lots of contact area, no damage done. i could have used a lead hammer instead. )