New 10k owner here some q's

Hello forum
So I embarked on the journey of getting a lathe at home. Been in the machining world for 6 years now, and decided it was time. Used a 9 inch southbend at my brothers work and loved it. So I started searching, nothing months pass by I pick up a Atl... What a horrible machine! Sold it without ever doing any work on it. Was trying to get a bigger 14x40 gear head but in the process I came accross this beauty.

From what I've read it's a 10k with variable speed so here are my questions, I know the answers are in here somewhere maybe but the amount if info in this site is overwhelming.
First backlash, I know a machine of this age is going to have some on my compound I have 10 thou I think that's how the increments are on it which is not bad for me
The cros slide, 60 thou. Not good that machine is super accurate even though its not level yet I was taking off .001 on demand. Almost like my hardinge at work. Do I need a new nut for the cross slide?
Second the threading dial won't stay engaged, I tighten the grub screw to keep it engaged and the thing just pops out, do I need a new dowel on which the dial is mounted to?
Third the motor it has, I know originally it was three phase, now it has a 1/2 hp 110v single phase Baldor in it. What motor can I replace it with? I don't see a need for three phase since I already have the variable speed. What hp rating is adequate it best for it? I'm thinking a 1 1/2 hp 220 v single phase will provide better power and a lower amp draw. I am cutting mostly 303 ss on it and it seems to handle I pretty well as long as I skiny take more than .020 off.
I need to get me a quick change tool post ASAP, that rocker post is a pita.

Beautiful machine that I need to get into work mode ASAP as I have lots of customers waiting for my product.

Oh yeah need to order leveling feet so I can get her off the ground, it sits waaay to low.

Comments and input is greatly appreciated.
URQ

Yes, it's a 10k and the variable speed was not common. That, the taper attachment, and the large dials, make it a nice find.

The compound backlash is tolerable, but 0.060 on the cross slide can be annoying. Check the backlash at the extremes of the cross slide travel, and in the middle. If it's nearly the same at all three points, then replacing the nut will help. If it's far greater in the middle, you may want to replace both nut and screw.

Not sure about the thread dial problem; there are two screws, of course, one at the front of the apron, one on the dial itself.

Others will chime in, but I think 1 1/2 hp is overkill. 3/4 or 1 hp at the most is all you should need. More problematic than motor size, is belt slip. I suspect you still have the original factory belt, thin, maybe green or yellow?

Many of the guys here use a Phase II QCTP from Enco. Here's another choice, made in USA: Omni Post - The quick change tool post system for your lathe!. Also, I think Dorian makes a smaller version of their AXA post, which is priced a bit cheaper than the AXA size.

Here's what I did to elevate my machine and save my lower back - an end grain block of oak and a hockey puck.



Paul

When you turn the cross feed screw look to make sure the nut does not wobble in the bore of the cross slide. I believe on the 9 and 10k you have to remove the nut when cutting a taper. If the screw holding the nut in place is not tight you may have some slop there.

Z

Any single phase motor larger than 1HP should be run on 220 volts.
1HP is plenty big enough for the capabilities of that machine.

I will look to see if that nut is tight never used a taper attachment so it's new to me. The belt is orange held by some metal stitches, it looks pretty rough but then again I don't know I that's the way it should look like. What motor do you guys run on yours? I know Baldor is top of the line so I might just get the same brand just rated at 1hp. I also noticed the the fwd rev switch spins fwd in both selections. Is the rev supposed to work? Thanks guys will take pics later of the belt assy. I'm a total rookie on what to look for

I'm 6'5", and had the same concern about a low lathe. It's also a 10K. I've attached pictures of the "stilts" and the lathe on the stilts. It turns out that my floor was very un-level, and so I was able to get an initial level for the lathe base by setting these stilts to different heights off the floor and grouting underneath. Each stilt had three screws that allowed me to control the height and level of the stilt before I grouted them in.

I checked the screw, it's tight. And double checked my backlash it's .085 sheesh hehe
I snapped some pics before work if the motor and belt

Nice stilts man I'm 5'11 so I don't need to go that extreme haha. Good ideas though

paulsomlo said:

Yes, it's a 10k and the variable speed was not common. That, the taper attachment, and the large dials, make it a nice find.

The compound backlash is tolerable, but 0.060 on the cross slide can be annoying. Check the backlash at the extremes of the cross slide travel, and in the middle. If it's nearly the same at all three points, then replacing the nut will help. If it's far greater in the middle, you may want to replace both nut and screw.

Not sure about the thread dial problem; there are two screws, of course, one at the front of the apron, one on the dial itself.

Others will chime in, but I think 1 1/2 hp is overkill. 3/4 or 1 hp at the most is all you should need. More problematic than motor size, is belt slip. I suspect you still have the original factory belt, thin, maybe green or yellow?

Many of the guys here use a Phase II QCTP from Enco. Here's another choice, made in USA: Omni Post - The quick change tool post system for your lathe!. Also, I think Dorian makes a smaller version of their AXA post, which is priced a bit cheaper than the AXA size.

Here's what I did to elevate my machine and save my lower back - an end grain block of oak and a hockey puck.

View attachment 73053

Paul

Click to expand...

I agree that the motor should be only about 3/4 - 1 HP --- I don't think I have ever seen a small SB with any larger than 1 HP.

The only reason to use a 1 1/2 HP motor would be if you had one on the shelf ready to go.

I have a 10K of similar vintage and the it runs in forward and reverse. I use reverse VERY sparingly and carefully since it's in invitation for the chuck to unscrew and wreak havoc.
I wouldn't bother with changing the motor unless you're doing production work... you'll probably run out of traction on your drive before you stall that motor. Increasing traction on the belt is going to lead to something else getting broken if you end up crashing it, or at the very least, putting lots of extra stress on the geartrain, etc.

As far as your belts go, the one from the motor to the variable pitch pulley looks cracked. I'd change both of them. You could also change the flat belt to an auto serpentine style. If you planned on removing the spindle to check the bearings and replace the wicks your half way there for a serpentine. It's amazing how poor belts can effect the machining finnish. I'd just try the motor as is and see what happens.

Is the "backlash" in the threads, or is it because there is space between the shoulder of the screw and the micrometer dial/handle?
These don't have ball bearings in the collars like your (& my) Hardinge stuff, and compared to Hardinge, they are poorly assembled. So the parts drift apart, space builds up and gives you "backlash". I've lived with it in my crossfeed, does not really bother me, but it could be adjusted out with some effort.

Why ever would you go to the complication of changing to a single phase motor, with more complicated electrics and less smooth power delivery? You''l need different heaters in the starter, possibly a different switch to retain reversing. I'd (do) stick with the simple robust 3ph system, and stick a freebie pull start pony motor in the corner to run it. Then when you get a mill, you can run that, too.

smt

Do I need to do anything the the belt pulley to make it a v belt setup? I have no plans to dissassemble headstock at the moment, but if I replace the belt I pretty much have to. I have no idea why the single phase was added, works for me as I don't have 3 phase at my house. An don't plan on adding it. If I can't spin in reverse I really don't mind. But I do know that it is underpowered with the 1/2 hp motor. All my work is stainless so I figure a bit more power will help.
As for the dials being loose I'm not sure, I feel no play in it but I also haven't tried to tighten it. I adjusted the Gibbs a bit because the cros slide had play in it that's gone now.
Gonna order up a qctp for it and sell the rocker post. Not working for me. Lovely machine

This is what I make by the way. Electronic cigarettes

urquidezj said:

Do I need to do anything the the belt pulley to make it a v belt setup? I have no plans to dissassemble headstock at the moment, but if I replace the belt I pretty much have to.

Click to expand...

Are you're talking about replacing the flat belt with a v-belt? That's not the way to go. As far as replacing the belt, disassembling the headstock does you no good. If you look down inside the headstock, you'll notice that the belt threads through the bed casting, which means the belt has to have a joint in it. Originally the belts were leather with a metal joint, just like yours, then the factory started using a thin synthetic belt that they either glued or heat welded in place. Clean up your belt and pulleys with some rubbing alcohol and see how that works. If you want a belt recommendation, here it is: Expertise.

The single phase was most likely added because, just like you, someone else didn't have three phase. Your lack of reverse sounds like the "electrician" incorrectly wired the single phase motor, or in fear of spinning off the chuck, chose to wire that way.

Regarding the "loose" dials, loosen the thumbscrew on the crossfeed graduated dial and pull the dial back towards you, then tighten the thumbscrew. Now rotate the crossfeed handle back and forth and note if any space opens up between the dial and the part that has the index mark on it (aka "the bushing").

Stephen - your comment about the ball bearings in the collars; I'm confused. Wouldn't a 10k of that vintage with large dials have the roller thrust bearings in the crossfeed assembly?

Paul

Hey Paul nice link on belts. I used to have a late model 10k umd with the synthetic belt, it looked seemless so I figured it was one piece . Now I know. Had a top drive v belt 10k and didn't want to go the link belt rout so there you need to pull the spindle. First thing I did on my Heavy ten was the serpentine belt and loved it.

Paul-

You probably know more about these than I do. My '63 only has the small dials. Nice touch if they put ball bearings in the large dial set up. I did not consider that; in fact failed to register that the photo does indeed show the large dials.

Sorry for the confusion!

urq-

another failure on my part was to register that yours _already_ is single phase.
I think much past 3/4 or maybe 1HP will be over stressing the lathe, anyway. (As others have noted). Unfortunately I do find myself running in the fastest speeds most of the time, but per yours/mine earlier comment, these are not Hardinges. They were made to peel off a fair size chip with high shear HSS tooling at HSS speeds. We all use carbide for many operations, I'm sure, but the SB's weren't really designed to wind up & fly, especially not with neg rake tools. Even the gear train gets a little iffy pushing fast speeds hard, and the rest of the lathe starts to flex.

Really neat machines, take more hard use and abuse than they ought to; love mine. But I think 1HP or more is asking for damage, if the plan is to use it all, all the time. Plus the belts will slip anyway.

smt

Nice find on the lathe man! I really like those E-cigs as well!

thanks, still havent put it to work. i havent ordered anything.
im looking at a phaseII qctp with index tooling for 300 on ebay wanna pull trigger,
i need to raise it, gonna go to home depot and get some 4x4 solid timber whatever they have. here is the question, how do i go about leveling it? it needs to be level to hold a tolerance right? i also need to order a drill chuck with the taper too. which taper do i need? sorry for the questions

You can probably do the rough leveling with the blocks and a carpenter's level, and the fine leveling with a machinist's level and the leveling screw in the base at the tailstock end. A search on "leveling" here on the forum will inundate you with information.

The tailstock is a Morse taper 2, aka MT2.

Paul