New 10L Headstock Oilers

I picked up a new Infrared lamp to force dry my paint, it being a little cool in the shop.
I thought you all might want to see, it is an American made product by Infratech.

http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/1.JPG
http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/2.JPG

Long story shortened, I picked up a 1968 10L(in the back ground) that had been turning wood for 10 years and to my horror after paying for it, was told it had always just been oiled with automotive gear lube in the headstock. I could not bring myself to run it like that,
and besides it really had a bad smell to it with that gear oil in it. Well I just had to see for
myself just how bad it was....and if all those stories are true you hear about saw dust and wood chips.

http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/3.JPG
http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/4.JPG

After pulling the spindle, hard to believe everything was perfect, not a score one.
The spindle capillary oilers were a bit dirty:

http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/13a.JPG


I ordered a new set from Ted along with the gits oilers and could not stop myself from
cleaning and painting the headstock.

Cleaned and taped, Infrared on, Major Tom:

http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/5.JPG
http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/6.JPG

Her's a few shots of proper installation of the oilers, after spindle is removed.
Enjoy:

Install the lower pipe plugs to contain the small amount of oil you are about to add:

http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/7.JPG
http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/8.JPG
http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/9.JPG
http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/10.JPG
http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/11.JPG

Soak your wicks in...number 10, get your wires ready...

http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/12.JPG
http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/13.JPG

A few shots down the hole, can you hear me ground control...

http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/14.JPG

Brush it around, up and down, Major Tom.

http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/15.JPG
http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/15a.JPG

These are paint gun cleaning wires, perfect:

http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/16.JPG

Wires ready, engines on...

http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/17.JPG

contacts down , wires in...ignition on at 10...
http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/18.JPG
http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/19.JPG

The spindle is clean and set in, and we pull the wires and have lift off.

http://www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/20.JPG


I'll take a few more photos as I clean and get it ready to run.

Steve

As you know Steve it could be worse. I just tore down a apron that was oiled last, during the Korean war. Not even enough oily to get my fingers dirty. The part I wanted, worm & gear for clutch was in supprising good condition. I am glad I didn't get that headstock. Kenny

Steve, Great photos, excellent work. One question; How are you going to screw in the R.H. oiler? Ed
p.s. Please keep us posted. Luv to watch a pro work.

Exactly the question I was wondering about sir!

I gotta see how this works. Steve your photographic essay is
tremendous! Thank you.

Jim

jim rozen said:

Exactly the question I was wondering about sir!Jim

Click to expand...

Ok, Guys I have no fear, we were playing trivia two weeks ago at the shop
and a customer joined in with the backwards-spinning drain question, I coolly explained
that it did not spin backwards he was just upside down since he walked below the equator...lol…I then asked if he knew the name of the dot above the letter "i"…
dot…no…it's a "tittle"…ok an easier one…the name of the cap on the end of your shoelace….haha…it goes in an eyelet, but it's an ?

A good student asks questions no mater what…LOL…and Ted explained to me that the oil cup was screwed into the adaptor bushing and then pressed into the headstock as an assembly.
The right side might unscrew ok and some will hit the inside. I've found if you lift the top at the angle in the picture it will rub and scratch the paint (touch it up), but it will not damage the oil cup. If you find it will not rotate around, you must pull the cup bushing and then press it back in.






Headstock bearing caps cleaned and painted:
Upper pipe plugs in, Oil cups in.







Thanks for the kind words,
Steve

Or Relieve the side of the casting a bit with a bur and die grinder

quick question Steve

May I ask what your "paint/oil/grease" removal method was? I do not see any original paint left.

Gary

Hydro Seal II carb cleaner, in the 5 gal pail with a basket.
Mean stuff...wear your long gloves...in fact...always wear your gloves!
I use nitral blue ones for general work and the heavy green ones for cleaning.
I wash down the parts after soaking with spray carb cleaner and then finish
with Naphtha.
I learned the hard way that chemicals will easily absorb through your skin.

Steve

Steve;

I believe the end of a shoelace is an aglet (sp?).

Craig Donges

swells said:

I learned the hard way that chemicals will easily absorb through your skin.

Steve

Click to expand...

Lungs too and your eyes. Seems like when they are burning they are absorbing also...Bob

Craig Donges said:

Steve;

I believe the end of a shoelace is an aglet (sp?).

Craig Donges

Click to expand...

Yup thats right Craig...Bob

Steve your having just way to much fun. Now when the heck are you going to get some Mr. Muscle oven cleaner and not have to mess with all the volatile dangerous chemicals. It works just way to good to mess with the stuff your using. Owe buy the way your paint work looks great. What model and size brush did you use."-)))) Are you going to spray a flattener over your way to high gloss paint job? Must be correct here now must we not.

If you say your going to paint the 8 Jr. this color and with the same paint I ain't gunna send it to ya. Black my good man Black.

Turk

Craig, aglet...LOL...that is correct

Bob, I take care now to not get oil, or other chemicals on my hands or breath the chit I used to. I did manage to quit smoking Denny, one of the things Julie wanted me to do.
Brother Mike had a heart attack 2 weeks ago, so I told him, now he had to quit too,
no cheating.
I did use a little spray stripper before I tanked the headstock, it had some nasty gray paint
on it. Hydro seal will flat out clean a part, if used correctly and not left uncovered it is great stuff.
I use it for smaller parts. I'll strip the bed and cabinet outside with the hot water hose and
scuff pads and spray stripper. Remember I have 190 degree water I can spray through my
pressure washer. Makes short work of removing paint.

The color denny is "Smoke Gray"...you know that color...lol...my spraymaster friend. It gets
real shiny when you lay in on thick at 250 degrees...haha. It's full of crap and little fuzzies, but I have a full can on it, so I'm going to sand down the outside and finish with my brushs.
Our painter is mixing some base coat to match the smoke gray and I'm going to try it out,
which should be much flatter than this. I'm going to leave the inside "Way too shiney" for the
oil to shed easy . I'll show you on the covers...I really like the infrared heater, the
headstock was hot'er'n hell but 12 inches back the table was cool. Ididn't have a tack rag is
why I got the trash in it.

The 8 inch I will Japan just like the Junior I don't have done yet...lol, I do have it stripped
and the bed I need to pressure wash one more time to get the under side clean.

Steve

Ok, sorry Jim...I got off track...back to the photo essay!!

We finished the bearing cap painting and now we are ready to center our expanders
in the shells and set them on.



I'ts very important that you do not damage your expanders, attention to detail is required:
Make sure you align the expander screw holes through the bearing.



Not in the South Bend instructions, on re-installing the bearing caps:
Start your "Cap Screws, "B", no not tighten.
align and start your bearing lock screws "A", lifting slightly on side of bearing if needed to
align, do not tighten.









After all bearing lock screws are started in expanders, but not tight, seat bearing caps
and tighten bearing cap screws "B", "moderately" tight.
(Ted, what is moderately tight?, in newton meters...lol)

After cap screws "B" are tightened, Adjust bearing lock screws "A", "moderately" tight.

I have assumed here that your headstock was adjusted and shimmed correctly before
tear down, I have R&I'ed the shims as they were, the spindle feels fine as far as drag, I will
go through a lift test (when we mount the headstock) for you if there is someone that
wants to see it checked.
For now I'm re-installing the pipe plugs to cover the lock screws. ("moderately" tight. )



Now to the back gear:

After cleaning everything inside and out, I checked the fit of the parts ana the proper fit
and alignment of the taper pins, just to make it easy to assemble. Painted the Eccentric
shaft lever, baked it and pinned it to the Eccentric shaft. Place the Quill Gear assem. in
the headstock and start the Eccentric shaft throught the left side, place the Eccentric
shaft bushing Slot at vertical as you start it in the headstock. You can follow this in SBL Form 2000.
This would be shaft assenbly H.







A couple of my old assemble secrets, shafts and bearing surfaces, seals, ect.:
I also use lubriplate 105 with a reamer in the lathe. Parts are not assembled dry,
these are the products to use, or if you perfer use your substitutes.




Install your left side shaft set screw, making sure you engage the slot in the shaft bushing
as you push home the bushing.




Start your lock nut, but do not tighten, just roughly adjust the Quill gear engagement by
using form 2000. Ready for the right side bushing now.

swells said:

Hydro Seal II carb cleaner, in the 5 gal pail with a basket.

Click to expand...

Beautiful work, Steve. Where do you get your Hydro Seal and does the 5-gallon pail come with a basket or was that custom on your part?

I've seen it at auto parts stores in the past, but not lately. All I find is the 1-gallon Gunk Carb & Parts cleaner (great stuff too).

At some point I have to try Naptha. I'd like to get a pail of Tetrachloroethylene, but can't seem to find any (probably too toxic).

Ryan

Install the right side shaft bushing and pin with taper pin "F"




If your headstock is still mounted on the lathe and not on the bench, use your "Door Ease"
stick to coat the tension spring and shoe and stick them together to facilitate an easy insertation in the tensioner hole, along with a punch of the proper size. Start the tension
screw to retain the spring and shoe, do not tighten.







Now we are ready to add lube to the cone and Quill Gear Assem.

Thanks Ryan,
I had our parts department order it for me, but I believe they got it from the local parts stores. I requested the basket that fit inside the 5 gal pail, not sure if I paid extras for it,
I just always request it, for flowing the cleaner over the parts after soaking several hours.
It’s the same product as the 1gal can you mentioned.
You can get Naptha at just about any paint store, (Ace too) I like to use it in a spray bottle, It's a milder solvent, it or mineral spirits is fine for final wash down.
Tetrachloroethylene is in many cleaning fluids, if they smell kinda sweet they probably contain it. I believe it is mainly used straight as dry cleaning fluid, non-flammable, but toxic as in cancer, so I would not use it straight unless you had very good ventilation.

Were you wondering what that "door ease" was for…

Steve

swells said:

You can get Naptha at just about any paint store, (Ace too) I like to use it in a spray bottle, It's a milder solvent, it or mineral spirits is fine for final wash down.

Click to expand...

I didn't know that - I always thought (assumed) Naptha was stronger than mineral spirits. I like using mineral spirits because it's pretty mild and seems to be a good paint prep.

When I buy brake cleaner I always look for the cans that are mostly tetrachloroethylene because I find the stuff amazing at solubizing grease on contact. I always thought if I could get a pail of it to dip parts in it would be awesome (it a toxic sort of way).

Ryan

Ryan,
Most naphtha I use is VM&P (Varnish makers' & painters'), there was always
a slew of names for products made (refined from) or using blends of naphtha.
Mineral spirits is also made from Naphtha. The "strength" as in solvent purification processes would be subject to the product and manufacture, the MSDS sheet might give some clue. Lighter fluid is also refined from naphtha.

Steve