New to me 444Y 9a lathe mounting question

Sorry this post maybe a little cryptic. I am stuck in a hotel and the only Internet I have is my phone. I have a 1940 SB 9a lathe that I bought over a year ago. I welded up a table for it and I am mounting the lathe to the table. I have been using the layout dimensions from the "Army 9 inch lathe technical manual". I know the page with the dimensions is titled 10-k horz drive but its the only dimensions mentioned I could find. The dimension called out from the rear hole of the lathe to the drive unit center pivot bolt is 15.75. Well after mounting the lathe and drive unit, The switch arm assembly with the flex conduit cable won't mount on the lathe. The drive unit is too far back. When I got the lathe the gentleman mentioned the belt had been shortened as well as the turnbuckle rods. I would like to mount the lathe as close to stock as possible. I initially thought the belt, turn buckle rods and the switch assembly flex cable had been shortened. But I found a length called out on the flex cable in the army manual. It appears the flex cable has not been shortened.

Does anyone know the correct distance to mount the drive unit? The correct length of the turnbuckle rods ? Also the correct belt length (I think ) 53.5 inches. Is that the circumference of the belt or is the circumference less due to the overlap in the glueing up process? When I get the lathe mounted I will probably go with a serpentine belt. First things first. BTW Being a machinist or welder is not my day job. Thanks for any help or guidance.

Your measurement of 15.75 is correct. This is measured from the middle of the lathe leg mounting hole to the middle of the countershaft pivot. 53 1/2 inches is about right for belt length. I have my belt length at 55" to allow for more slack and easier movement from one speed to another. In all fairness it really doesn't matter how far back you mount the countershaft. As long as you have a wire and belt long or short enough to reach and allow for tilt of the countershaft to adjust speeds you should be ok.

Just measured my 1954 Model A and found that 15.75" is the correct distance between the center of the rear bed leg mounting bolt and the drive unit center pivot bolt. My belt is 54.5" which does not include the several inches of overlap for glue-up. 54.5" is the finished circumference. The turnbuckle rods are approximately 8.375" and 4.375" from the center of the bent end of the rod to the opposite end. As Halligan stated, as long as you get everything lined up and you have enough room to tilt the countershaft without interference then you should be good to go.

I hope this helps.
John

WEWilliams - South Bend Lathe Library go down to 1954 there is a chart hope this helps 9 inch horz drive unit

Thanks for the responses so far. It is reassuring to know that I'm using the correct distance to mount the drive unit. When I get home I'll measure the turnbuckle rods. I think the ones I fabricated are pretty close to the same length that John (Gigantor) mentioned. I think the problem is with the switch assembly with the flex cable that attaches to the lathe. As I mentioned I think the flex cable length is correct. What I think has changed is the motor is not original. I think the attach point is different that the original motor. I think it is farther back. I have looked through the photo albums but didn't see a side view showing the drive unit to compare to what I have. Does anyone have a picture they could post showing the flex cable to motor attach location? Thanks. Dave

Lucas65 I just looked at the drawing you referred me to on the WEWilliams site. Thank you Dave

Ignore Wirenut land. This was a wiring test. The wiring box for the motor goes on top where the octopus of wires is. If your cable is too short just get some oil resistant multiwire cord (with as many wired as you need obviously) and you're good to go. This is the original GE configuration.

I have somewhat limited room on my bench due to the wall behind it.

It looks from Halligan's picture that there is plenty of room.

Can the motor mount be placed closer? What are the issues with that?

Steve

SteveM said:

I have somewhat limited room on my bench due to the wall behind it.

It looks from Halligan's picture that there is plenty of room.

Can the motor mount be placed closer? What are the issues with that?

Steve

Click to expand...

The flat belt will then be to short and may slip.

ED S

Here's a snapshot of what mine looks like. Original bench, motor and wiring at the suggested 15.75" mounting distance. I think the only concerns about moving the counter shaft assembly closer are the clearance needed to tilt it back (you don’t want it to hit the lathe) and the angle of the belt. If you leave the tensioning rods the same length and move the base of the assembly closer it’ll tilt back and may cause the belt to rub on the base of the headstock. I’ve never done this so this is just a guess.

John

If you were to put your bench as close to the wall (so that the large pulley is touching), how many inches to the front of the lathe feet (not to the cross-slide crank as shown in the SB diagrams)?

My bench is not deep enough. The prior owner had it away from a wall with the motor mount right at the endge, hanging off the back.

The top is 2"x2" maple planks, but I figure that if I add a 2x4 or 2x6 horizontally to the back, I can gain a few inches. The back won't be supporting any real load. Just need to fill in the space so stuff doesn't roll back there and fall behind.

The wall against which the lathe will go is a partition covered in plywood. I can gain a few extra inches by cutting out a section of plywood and boxing it from the other side.

I remember my dad having to cut out a few inches of plasterboard behind his :-)

Steve

Thanks for the pictures of your original lathe setups. The flex cable on my lathe goes behind the drive unit to a junction box. Even though the cable it is the correct length, it is too short based on the location of the junction box. As soon as I get home I will reconfigure it with new cabling. Yahoo, I should have the lathe running by monday. Thanks to all who have responded and everyones willingness to share their knowledge. Dave

Steve, for my Model A the distance from the wall (when the counter shaft pulley is touching) to the very front of the foot is 28". The 1952 catalogue states that their wooden bench top was 26" x 60", mine is actually 25.75" deep. With my setup I'd need to get a little less than 3" of clearance for the pulley to clear and have the bench against the wall.

John

Thanks, John.

Looks like it will fit.

Steve