New to me Model A

Richard King · Sep 27, 2014

I used to have a complete repair machine shop with all the machines needed but when I down sized I sold everything and just kept my scraping tools. If I needed something made I jobbed it out. Last week I saw a cute little South Bend Model A on an online auction and to me it seemed cheap. I have missed a lathe to do small repair projects like chasing threads on bolts for my lawn mower and now I am thinking of making King-Way kits so I figure I needed a lathe to thread some parts.

I bought it sight unseen and when I went to pick it up I was surprised the bed did not have the ridge, but the cross slide needs scraping. Pretty tight little machine.

It has a 220 / 3 phase motor on it and I was wondering if a 110 /1 phase will work or will the torque be to low? Here are some pic's. I will clean it up and put some more pictures plus when I scrape the bed, saddle, cross-slide, tails-stock, compound. :-) Rich

jim rozen · Sep 27, 2014

Sweet - it's got the large dials.

Keep the 3~ motor and fit a VFD to it. Never shift belts again.

Richard King · Sep 27, 2014

I'm not really handy with electricity, can I run it off 110 volts? I had 220/1 phase in the unattached barn shop but a squirrel chewed one of the wires (happened before) so I disconnected that wire. I need to trench new wires out there, but this time I won't use buried cable, I will run plastic electrical conduit and the wires inside it. I hope to get the 120' foot buried before the snow flies. Rich

arc · Sep 27, 2014

Yep, you can get a 1phase input 3phase output VFD. They are pretty straight forward as to the hookup. Also a 1ph. motor will work just fine as long as the horsepower is the same as your 3ph. motor.
I'm looking forward to those scraping pics!!
P.S. that's a nice looking lathe.

Spyderedge · Sep 27, 2014

I'd keep the 3~ motor if you can hook up a VFD. Based on their design, they are a much smoother running motor because two (poles?) are always engaged, while a 1~ motor switches those two poles on and off. Plus Dayton motors are real nice.

Looks good, I like the hump shape headstock on the old South Bend and Logans.

paulsomlo · Sep 28, 2014

I think you'll like the VFD - here's what a bunch of us are using: Compact Micro AC Drive<BR>1/4 to 3hp, Single or 3 phase <BR>TECO EV/JNEV Series | Search All AC Drives | Marshall Wolf Automation, Inc.
You can order it configured for 115V single phase in, 220 three phase out, you'll probably want the 1hp model. Fairly simple to hook up and many of us can help with questions.

Paul

jim rozen · Sep 28, 2014

So you've heard all the comments in favor of a VFD for your machine. But the answer to your
real question is, yes, a single phase motor works just fine for lathes, including yours. You cannot
instant-reverse the spindle the way you can on three phase power - you have to allow the
spindle to slow to a dead stop before switching direction. But other than that, as long as the
drum switch is wired correctly, you won't be able to tell the difference.

SBLatheman · Sep 28, 2014

jim rozen said:
You cannot instant-reverse the spindle the way you can on three phase power .

Unless you get an instant reverse single phase motor. :cool:

Ted

jim rozen · Sep 28, 2014

Not with the one he has, and is planning on using:

"I had 220/1 phase in the unattached barn shop..."

Betch a hundred bucks it isn't instant reversing....

=)

MetalCarnage · Sep 28, 2014

Also, I wouldn't try and run that motor on 110 as it looks like it's designed for 220/440. Repairing the 220 line to the shed will probably be the cheapest, simplest way to go.

-Ron

ironsmith89 · Sep 28, 2014

I can't wait to see some pics of this rebuild! There should be no trouble with a 110 single phase motor, it will draw a few more amps than 220 and even more than 480, that's the trade off. Not a big issue on such a small motor. Instant reverse on a lathe? Sounds like a good way to unscrew your thread mounted chuck lol.

janvanruth · Sep 29, 2014

In threading instant reverse saves time and agravation.
Especially in metric threading up a shoulder with no brake.
At threading-speeds the chuck will stay put in instant reverse.

Richard King · Sep 29, 2014

thermite said:
If other priorities prevent completion of the entire trench, AND you can more easily get to the damaged run, AFAIK, it is permissable to cut it out, install proper junction boxes, and cut-in a new conductor between them to replace that length. Splices inside the boxes, not exposed, of course.

The boxes are cheap enough.

Someone more up to date with the code, feel free, etc. I could well be wrong.

Bill

I did that last time and had a professional Electrician do it. The other issue is it is aluminum cable and he said a small nick in the plastic covering will let it erode. I am going to check the fuse box in the garage as I think it is 100 amp...and get a price on the copper wire.

I would like to do the instant reverse, so I think 220/3 is my best option. Plus I have been thinking of buying a mill or planer, so I'll need the 220. So may as well bite the bullet and do it right. I have a 5 HP 3 phase motor and can make a phase converter.

Winter is coming and the ground will be frozen in a couple of months, so I'll probably cut in a new trench this weekend.

It's nice to get everyone's input to make up my mind.

Thanks, Rich

michiganbuck · Sep 29, 2014

I was going to say use a little larger HP 1-phase if you have the amps to start perhaps 1HP.. but looks like you are going 3p. (aluminum cable also can get hot..."and get a price on the copper wire." Good)

Nice looking lathe Richard.

OT:
Under ground, trench? An oil man who guided our Wyoming hunting trip suggested using something he called Reita wire (as that is commonly used by the oil companies and is lower cost than underground but used the same) for our Michigan hunting camp.. I have looked about the web and can not find it. Does anyone know what it is? Perhaps I have the name wrong.

Might not be to Michigan code, yes I know that. We have to go 339 meters or 1,112 feet.

ErnieD · Sep 29, 2014

With all this talk about instant reversing on a Southbend lathe. Beware or you may end up with the chuck falling on the ways, the floor or your foot.

Ernie

WAS Jr · Sep 30, 2014

Richard King said:
I used to have a complete repair machine shop with all the machines needed but when I down sized I sold everything and just kept my scraping tools. If I needed something made I jobbed it out. Last week I saw a cute little South Bend Model A on an online auction and to me it seemed cheap. I have missed a lathe to do small repair projects like chasing threads on bolts for my lawn mower and now I am thinking of making King-Way kits so I figure I needed a lathe to thread some parts.

I bought it sight unseen and when I went to pick it up I was surprised the bed did not have the ridge, but the cross slide needs scraping. Pretty tight little machine.

It has a 220 / 3 phase motor on it and I was wondering if a 110 /1 phase will work or will the torque be to low? Here are some pic's. I will clean it up and put some more pictures plus when I scrape the bed, saddle, cross-slide, tails-stock, compound. :-) Rich

That's going to be one lucky little lathe. I call dibs on first in line when Richard realizes there's a market for hobby owners wanting hotrodded, accurized South Bend Nines and light Tens. Bill S

Cole2534 · Oct 1, 2014

Instant reverse with a threaded spindle nose may get exciting from time to time.

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