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  1. #1
    metron9 is offline Aluminum
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    Default New owner South Bend 9A

    I just picked up an 9A I have a parts manual but not a running manual.
    Never operated a lathe before and I just got started milling last year when I bought my first Bridgeport Mill.

    The table has a steel plate on top, when i got it out of my pickup i could not for the life of me get it back up on it's feet, it is very heavy.

    http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/...G_newlathe.gif

    I have it running and I cut some acrylic stock

    http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/...9/firstcut.gif

    There are three settings for running the feed. Bottom is the cross feed, Center allows manual engage for the halfnut and i am not sure what the top setting is for. How do you use the automatic stop turning by hand when it goes into the stop does not disengage the half nut. Could someone explain what setting the auto stop works with? I don't want to break it siince it seems to be working very nice. I chucked a er25 collet holder from Maritool and indicated the straight shaft and it varied a total of 4 tenths and the outside of the 3 jaw chuck is about the same. It's a new grizzly chuck.

    I am going to buy an Aloris toolpost starter set for $585.00 (AXA size is that correct?) but I also need tooling for the tail stock. So I am thinking I need to get a drill chuck that fits, is it a MT2?

    It came with MT1 drills (I think) so do I need a MT1 to MT2 adapter to use these?

    I have some .625 round indexable boring bars for my Bridgeport Mill boring head and I am assuming the "Aloris AXA-2 Boring, Turning and Facing Holder" that comes with the set will hold those.

    I guess a live center and drill chuck not sure the maximum size I should get for this size lathe. Since I have er25 collets perhaps I should get an er25 collet holder that has an MT2 taper as well?

    Any tips pointers links and advice appreciated.

  2. #2
    gkemper's Avatar
    gkemper is offline Aluminum
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    Sep 2010
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    Texas
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    Default

    Check out the video by Darrell Holland: Professional-Machine-Shop-Course-Lathe

    I wish I had it when I was first starting out. He does a great job explaining everything.

  3. #3
    knudsen's Avatar
    knudsen is offline Stainless
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    Cobblers Knob, IN USA
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    Default

    I am going to buy an Aloris toolpost starter set for $585.00 (AXA size is that correct?) but I also need tooling for the tail stock. So I am thinking I need to get a drill chuck that fits, is it a MT2?
    I recently saw a set for about $100 less, but it came with only two tool holders IIRC. I'll see if I can find it and save you a few pesos. You could buy a lot of 3rd party/import tool holders with the savings.

  4. #4
    wb2vsj is offline Hot Rolled
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    Apex, North Carolina - USA
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    Default

    The booklet "How to run a lathe" by Southbend is a great reference you'll use over and over. You'll find PDF copies all over the internet. Here's one by another PM member, Steve Wells:

    http://wswells.com/data/htral/htral_index.html

    Aloris' are very nice, but if you want something cheaper and don't mind imports, check out Jeff Becks Site, Tools4cheap LLC Online Machine Shop Tooling Store (He also is an Aloris dealer.)

    Have fun!

    Walt

  5. #5
    mcruff is offline Hot Rolled
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    Albertville, Alabama
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    Default

    The center position is for the half nuts (threading) not feeding. That upper position you were talking about is for the longitudinal feed, place the selector in this position and then turn the star knob (snuggly) to engage it, when you want to disengage it loosen the star knob, this works the same in both crossfeed and longitudinal feed. There is no automatic disengage on these machines. To select which direction the feed goes in each case you use the selector lever on the left end of the head stock when the machine is stopped!

    A phase II toolpost set will work just as good on a hobby machine like this and save you enough money to buy quite a few toolholders.
    You can use a drill chuck up to 1/2" on this machine fine. You will need a taper adapter to run those drills in the tailstock as it is a no2 morse taper.

  6. #6
    metron9 is offline Aluminum
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    Default

    Ok i just placed an order from tools4cheap.net "Always buy the best" I try and live by but the cuts I get with the lantern post and initial testing I think the best may be a bit overkill so I am taking Jeff's word for it.

    "Note: these are very high quality sets made of steel with all working surfaces hardened and ground."

    3/4 Keyless Drill Chuck J3 to M2 tang
    Live Bull Nose
    Live center
    2 to 1 Morse taper adapter
    quick change tool post kit 100 series (compatable with the AXA) $125.00
    100 series indexable insert turn / face tool holder

    Grand total $309.36 with shipping

    Then I orderd from Walden
    1 4 Pc. Screw Cutting, Pitch , Center & Grinding Gauge @ $14.24 = $14.24

    1 ER25 MT2 Collet Chuck MT2 @ $31.34 = $31.34

    I watched the videos from the lathe cave on setting up for threading. I don't have any 60 degree inserts or holders for threading. So i am looking at these 60-¦ Turning & Facing Tools (Micro 100)

    I don't see advertising for specific use in threading for indexable tooling.

    I also don't know what specific tool (boring bar?) to use for inside threads.

    I am on a roll.... What a nice Christmas present. I can see the new p7 LED flashlights with strobe (or something else..) rolling off my production line very soon.

  7. #7
    knudsen's Avatar
    knudsen is offline Stainless
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    Default

    This is what cave-boy was pushing: LittleMachineShop.com - Threading Tool, 3/8" Indexable HSS Inserts The one tool does inside and outside threads.

  8. #8
    metron9 is offline Aluminum
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by knudsen View Post
    This is what cave-boy was pushing: LittleMachineShop.com - Threading Tool, 3/8" Indexable HSS Inserts The one tool does inside and outside threads.
    Thank's for the link.

    Found this, make your own...

    How to make a internal/external threading tool on your lathe

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