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perlp

Plastic
Joined
Apr 11, 2011
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IL
This is my first post in this site, I am a hobby machinist, has been slowly building up my home (basement) shop. So when I saw an advertisement for a small milling machine on Craigslist, I could not resist I went to see it right away. Guy also had a South bend 9" lathe with a 48" bed for sale. I had read a lot about SB lathes here, so I bought both of them. I admit it was an impulse buy, I probably paid more than they worth. Now I have them, trying to make best of it. Lathe shows signs of wear and use, but seems to be in decent shape. no broken parts and everything moves smoothly (after adding some lubricating oil.) It was bone dry when I got it, seems like someone cleaned it and done a poor paint job, all over, on dials and handles etc.
I did some measurements (as in Paula's 1947 SB thread
HTML:
(http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/1947-model-9a-128005/)
. Play in the headstock bearing is is about 0.8 mils, seems too good given its age and use, backlash of the lead screw is about 12 mils. Lever in the QC box is tricky to move, have to hold close to the shaft to move it. Is that a sign of wear or usual? It came with 3 jaw, 4 jaw chucks and lantern type tool post and holders. It has a 1/2 hp GE motor probably a later replacement. It is mounted on a somewhat shaky steel table. Like to add quick change AXA tool post, some kind of collect chuck.. etc and of course a better painting job. Your suggestions and recommendations are welcome and appreciated.


The milling machine is small but heavy (over 250 lbs I guess). Table is 6 x 14 and XYZ travels are 7", 4", 6". It has MT2 taper in the spindle (my guess, collects fits in the late tailstock), has a 1/3 hp motor. Main limitation is the distance from spindle to the table, is only 6.5"; otherwise the ideal machine I have been looking for, one sturdy and I could manage to move to the basement after taking apart. Name plate says "National Scientific Products Co. Chicago" , I could not find much about it in a Google search, except of a scroll saw by that company.
 

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I did some measurements (as in Paula's 1947 SB thread. Play in the headstock bearing is is about 0.8 mill, seems too good given its age and use, backlash of the lead screw is about 12 mills. Lever in the QC box is tricky to move, have to hold close to the axle to move it. Is that a sign of wear or usual? It came with 3 jaw, 4 jaw chucks and lantern type tool post and holders. It has a 1/2 hp GE motor probably a later replacement. It is mounted on a somewhat shaky steel table. Like to add quick change AXA tool post, some kind of collect chuck.. etc and of course a better painting job. Your suggestions and recommendations are welcome and appreciated.
I am assuming your statement of 12 mills is really 12 thousands, (read .012") and the spindle should have been .0008" or 8 ten thopusands or 8 tenths. Both of these are pretty decent for a machine like this. The AXA toolpost is fine, if it were me, clean the dials, handles and such and then replace the leather belt with a serpentine along with your spindle felts and go to work. The quick change quirk is probably a sign of lack of oil and sitting for a long period unused.
 
I am assuming your statement of 12 mills is really 12 thousands, (read .012") and the spindle should have been .0008" or 8 ten thopusands or 8 tenths. Both of these are pretty decent for a machine like this. The AXA toolpost is fine, if it were me, clean the dials, handles and such and then replace the leather belt with a serpentine along with your spindle felts and go to work. The quick change quirk is probably a sign of lack of oil and sitting for a long period unused.

Yes, I meant 0.012" and 0.0008". Certainly, #1 item in my do list is to clean the dials now they are all painted over and hard to read. I oiled the QC gearbox and axles, that improved a little, but sliding of QC levers still not smooth. Thanks. -Lalith
 
Try this.
Drop the QC handles down and reach under to move them by pushing right near the shaft they slide on, does it improve?
If so then that handle openings, and or the gear, and or the shaft is probably worn, and the handles are binding because they torque sideways when you slide them from the grip.
Try to always pull a little bit towards you when you are sliding them, and it may feel smoother.

Josh
 
Rick_B is probably right, have a look at this. " Page Title ". The tag may not be from the company that made the machine. It may be from the company that used the machine or sold the machine.
 
Try this.
Drop the QC handles down and reach under to move them by pushing right near the shaft they slide on, does it improve?
If so then that handle openings, and or the gear, and or the shaft is probably worn, and the handles are binding because they torque sideways when you slide them from the grip.
Try to always pull a little bit towards you when you are sliding them, and it may feel smoother.

Josh, It slides easier when pushed holding near the shaft, so it seems it is due to wear.
Has anyone rebuilt a QC gearbox, Is it possible to put a new bush in the handle opening to improve it.
 
Rick_B is probably right, have a look at this. " Page Title ". The tag may not be from the company that made the machine. It may be from the company that used the machine or sold the machine.

It looks very similar to the Duro (early Bench Master) mill. Thanks for the link.
I do not see any name in the vertical column casting though.
 
I am not much of an expert, but I have taken apart and re-felted three of these gear boxes now, and the shaft the tumblers ride on seems like a weak point especially if the owner is not good with an oil can.
I doubt that just rebushing the handles would do it.
The thing I had noticed was that the shaft wears on the spots that the tumblers spend a lot of time in.
You might want to spend some time learning how to use your new toys before tackling the project, but turning a new shaft and cutting a slot for the drive gear dogs would not be too hard since you have both a lathe and a mill now.;)

If it were me I would live with it unless you feel you could accurately make a new shaft (or buy one in better shape).
 
I am not much of an expert, but I have taken apart and re-felted three of these gear boxes now, and the shaft the tumblers ride on seems like a weak point especially if the owner is not good with an oil can.
I doubt that just rebushing the handles would do it.
The thing I had noticed was that the shaft wears on the spots that the tumblers spend a lot of time in.
You might want to spend some time learning how to use your new toys before tackling the project, but turning a new shaft and cutting a slot for the drive gear dogs would not be too hard since you have both a lathe and a mill now.;)

If it were me I would live with it unless you feel you could accurately make a new shaft (or buy one in better shape).

I agree, I will first use it and get some experience before fix/break it :). Thanks!
 
You will really like the 4' bed. It is handy to have the length at times. The 9" is a really good size for a small lathe. Making a new shaft would be a good project as well, once you get to know the machine. Good luck
 
I cleaned the tumbler shaft with a cloth soaked with WD40, then applied SAE 30 non -detergent motor oil on the shaft ( I have not got southbend recommend oil yet). That made a world of difference. Levers now move very smoothy, I can move them just holding the grip with two fingers!. Also replaced the letter belt with a serpentine belt ( cut and glued), may have improve the traction, but still make noise and little vibration when the joint moves over the pulleys. Anyway now everything seems to be work fine, time get to do some real work :)
 
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