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Newer guy with collete questions

Mr_Bill

Aluminum
Joined
Apr 22, 2007
Location
cincinnati, ohio
So let me set thew stage. I have two South Bend Heavy 10 lathes on that I am using and will continue to use and one that I am rebuilding for sale. I have two collete sets. One is a mixture of South Bend and Royal and maybe Hardridge but all brand names 1/16 to 1" by 32nds with a few missing 20 on hand needing 11 missing that I am looking for and will list them later on in this message. I have a almost complete new import set from 1/16 to 1 1/8" bu 16ths missing 1/8" only and I have a collete stop for this set so 17 on hand and 1 missing.

My first questions are what is your opinion as to the real value comparison of these sets? I intend to use them not have them as part of a restoration project.

Since the South Bend set do not have internal threads are they less desirable? Is a collete stop used that often making it and the imports valuable? The imports have internal threads and are still in the boxes, un-used. these re listed on ebay for $100 plus the cost of the collete stop. Yes I have the required fittings to use the collets on both lathes.

I am missing the following us collets 3/32 9/32 13/32 1/2 19/32 21/32 11/16 23/32 25/32 27/32 29/32 and I have a duplicate of the 15/16" collette. I am looking to purchase / trade for the missing collets so when I sell the other lathe I have a set to go with that. I have a lot of spare gauge blocks to trade.

I am interested in your opinions and thoughts.

Bill in Cincy
 
1- not "especially" desirable without internal threads...that's one of the the rhings that make collets useful IMO...Value? Who knows.

2- import can be anything but let's say they are the cheapest. 50% compared to new would be a good guess..maybe.

3- you won't see any real increase in selling value so avoid the headache and just get rid of the ones you don't want or need, let the next owner worry about it.
 
Check all those import collets to see if they are sprung closed and hard to load on size material into them. I'd rather have good collets that spring open with not stop threads than the opposite problem.
 
You can buy a collet stop that will work on collets w/o internal threads. Collet stops are handy to have. Esp when you have to do a run of the same part. But you could always bore an "Emergency Collet" to substitute for a collet stop you don't have. The length of a part in a collet seems to vary slightly from part to part when using a stop. If length is critical you need a dead length setup.

It is well known that Hardinge collets are the better quality collets to have in every measure... except when it comes to price. :-)
 
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All of the above apply to production work. Most of what I do in collets is modifying existing things. This kind of thing can result in collet damage. I have a full set of spares on hand. I can finish a job if something goes wrong. Nock on wood I have never torn up a collet,but I have seen some damaged ones.
 
Can you point me to a collet stop that will work on collets w/o internal threads.

You can buy a collet stop that will work on collets w/o internal threads. Collet stops are handy to have. Esp when you have to do a run of the same part. But you could always bore an "Emergency Collet" to substitute for a collet stop you don't have. The length of a part in a collet seems to vary slightly from part to part when using a stop. If length is critical you need a dead length setup.

It is well known that Hardinge collets are the better quality collets to have in every measure... except when it comes to price. :-)
 
Here are few examples of collet stops designed for collets without internal threads that I use(there are probably more). The one on the left is a Hardinge, the other 2 are more than likely imports. I'm partial to the Hardinge but the others work fine & they work with internally threaded collets as well.
413594803.jpg
 








 
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