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Picked up a Heavy 10. A few pics, a few questions.

hsracer201

Hot Rolled
Joined
Oct 24, 2015
Hi all. I picked this up on CL over the weekend and I have a few newbie questions if anyone would be so kind as to explain or confirm.

1. It has an L-00 spindle, so is it a 10L or a 10R?
2. The compound has 4 screws in the top that I have never seen on a South Bend before. What are they for?
3. I see no scrapings so I'm assuming this bed is flame hardened even though there's no tag?
4. In the picture that shows the collet there is a pivoting hook/guard that doesn't appear to really accomplish anything in either position. Does anyone know why it's there?

Thank you very much.

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Hi there, the pivoting hook is a spacer to push against the chuck retaining ring when you remove the chuck. the 4 bolts are to hold down the plates that were used as a repair on the compound. no scraping marks due to the amount of wear on the ways,doesn't look too bad actually... some cleanup and a good oiling and you probably can get another 100,000 hours out of the old girl. Jim
 
no scraping marks due to the amount of wear on the ways,doesn't look too bad actually...

I think it's more likely that the ways are hardened and ground. You'd see scraping toward the headstock and tailstock otherwise.

Teryk


Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
 
Nice score!!
I believe its still a 10L.
Mine (1961) also has a hard bed as indicated on the serial number card but the bed is not tagged as being hard and no scrapings under the headstock.
I also have the L00 and I think that hook is a safety device to keep the draw-nut from backing off.
On the parts list that spindle is called "Type L Long Taper Key Drive Headstock Spindle" Size-00
 
Thank you all for the replies. I need to get a Parts diagram so I don't have to ask what things are. I easily took the 3 jaw off without using the hook so that's why I wasn't sure of it's function. A safety makes sense.

What serial number is your 1961?

Last night I started breaking it down into major sub assemblies for cleaning and was pleased to see the half nuts look great. It's quite dirty but it's in reasonable condition. It will benefit from a new Crossfeed and compound nut but other than that I probably won't do much other than replace some oilers that are missing caps. If I can find them.
 
those chucks sitting on the ways just make me cringe a bit

The serial number will tell you for sure, but those look like 5C collets to me. The 10L is the only one that will take those. The 10R has a smaller bore through the spindle that won't accept a 5C.

Someone fixed the compound. If they did a decent job of making the slot right, thats a perfectly good way of doing it. Makes it easy to fix again if needed. The underside of that T slot would sometimes get chewed up from lantern posts or the end would get driven into the chuck and break off pieces.

Overall that looks very similar to my 1957 10L, but you have the better chuck mounting system. Mine is the standard threaded spindle.
 
Ditto on the nice score. With the amount of wear shown in the picture with the lead screw I doubt it is a hardened bed. I could be wrong. The gits oilers are easily obtainable. If you do take it all apart change the felt wicks. Is it 1 or 3 phase? Should provide you with plenty of service as everthing you would ever need to replace is on e-bay.
 
Thank you for the clarification on the L/R.

It is 3-phase. I noticed that the pulley on the electric motor shaft is a single step pulley, not a double.

I removed the headstock tonight and the ways look exactly the same from head to tail, no scraping anywhere that fades away.

It needs a lot of cleaning.
 
Mine is serial 12475RKX16, November 3 1961.
Says right on the serial card "Hard Bed" but says nothing on the lathe.
I am in the middle of a complete tear down of mine. Finished with the bed and the left end stuff, just the apron, carriage and tailstock to go! Its a lot of work. I highly recommend the book on rebuilds. And be sure you know what your doing when you remove the spindle caps and bearings!!!
 
Mine is serial 12475RKX16, November 3 1961.
Says right on the serial card "Hard Bed" but says nothing on the lathe.
I am in the middle of a complete tear down of mine. Finished with the bed and the left end stuff, just the apron, carriage and tailstock to go! Its a lot of work. I highly recommend the book on rebuilds. And be sure you know what your doing when you remove the spindle caps and bearings!!!

I have the book but it still leaves doubt as to whether or not I want to tackle the spindle. If nothing else I want to remove it to clean the headstock but the bearings are in great shape so I don't want to screw anything up. I need to learn at some point but not sure I want to learn on this one. Any pointers that you think the book doesn't cover well?

The taper attachment, cross slide and carriage are all stripped for cleaning. The apron doesn't look too, too bad, but I hate taper pins.
 
Take pictures before you take it apart. Just follow the directions when removing the bearing caps if you do mess with it. The reason I am going through mine is because the bearings were not set up properly. Then one thing led to another so I decided to do the whole lathe. Stripping and painting the cast iron parts is a LOT of work. But it sure is fun putting it all back together clean and pretty. My wife calls it the other women. In the end it will last a life time or two in the right hands.
 
the spindle bearings are pretty easy to deal with. The book explains it, but basically you remove the pipe plugs at the top, remove the machine screws under that, then you can unbolt the caps and lift them. If the screws aren't pulled the bearings will be destroyed when the caps are hammered off. I did have to persuade mine to come off with a rubber mallet. The fit on the pins is pretty tight.

The apron tends to get pretty nasty inside. Even if you aren't wanting to split it apart, pulling it to wash any trash out and inspect it would be a good idea.

I found the rebuild book to be very helpful, definitely worth the money if you haven't rebuilt one of these before. Nothing in there is really scary or even difficult to deal with but just knowing what order to take things apart is a huge time saver.
 
Right, pulling the caps is not a big deal, unless you do it wrong then its real bad:angry:. If you tread something into the pipe plug hole and wiggle it back and forth it will get them off if their tight.
 
Just about every taper pin on this machine has been beaten into place by Goliath himself. I broke multiple punches last night and ordered more today. While I wait I cannot get the nut behind the star clutch knob off. The book really dropped the ball on this step if you ask me. It goes into better detail about the newer models with a cam but for the star clutch kind it simply says "hold the clutch gear from behind and remove the nut." Well, everything I hold on the back of the apron spins freely when I turn the nut. I'm puzzled.

Also, is there somewhere you can just buy a kit of taper pins or does everyone simply make their own? I've drilled out several...

Thank you.
 
I have not worked on the apron yet and I have cam. A good hardware store should have taper pins. Also I have a set of starrett pin punches and they are so much better than cheap ones.
 
Okay, here's another silly question if anyone is willing to chime in. I'll take whatever ribbing comes my way because of it. The right side headstock oiler won't unscrew because the cup hits the casting. How'd they get it in place?
 
Okay, here's another silly question if anyone is willing to chime in. I'll take whatever ribbing comes my way because of it. The right side headstock oiler won't unscrew because the cup hits the casting. How'd they get it in place?

Is it bent? I don't recall any particular issue with mine. I do not remember there being much extra room though.
 
Okay, here's another silly question if anyone is willing to chime in. I'll take whatever ribbing comes my way because of it. The right side headstock oiler won't unscrew because the cup hits the casting. How'd they get it in place?

I had the same issue. The git is threaded into a bushing that is pressed and or glued into the casting. They must have threaded the git into the bushing and then pressed it into the casting. I used a dremel to grind a path for the git to unthread.
 
Thank you both. I'll probably go the dremel route.

ETA: It's not even close to spinning out of there. I'll have to dremel a lot of meat off the casting, or just leave it in there.

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