r 8 tailstock

hardtail69 · Jul 30, 2017

does anyone make an r8 based tail stock that will fit a model 9a south bend lathe? thinking oF getting another tail stock and making one my self.Is it feasible? yes i am a newbie with a lot of questions lol. the reason i am asking is slippage i get it whenever i try using a tap even just a 3/8-16. either the mt2 slips or the Jacobs chuck slips but it is always one or the other i can never seem to get them tight enough. i will get them started straight then they slip and I end up taking it off the machine to finish it in a vice. Is there any help for this problem?
I thought maybe an R8 version of the tail stock might be feasible. i already have r8 collets for my small mill. and they never ever slip on me

Danny VanVoorn · Jul 30, 2017

I don't think anyone offers one because the market is so small they wouldn't be profitable to make; why do you want one?
Dan

tobnpr · Jul 31, 2017

hardtail69 said:
the reason i am asking is slippage i get it whenever i try using a tap even just a 3/8-16. either the mt2 slips or the Jacobs chuck slips but it is always one or the other i can never seem to get them tight enough.

What's the condition of the taper in the tailstock quill? If it's been damaged by too many "spin outs", might be time for a new (to you) quill. The taper should hold under normal use. You'll probably need to buy a whole tailstock to get the quill- but I don't see a cheaper alternative.

Scottl · Jul 31, 2017

Another option, although it might seem strange, would be to use Lisle tap sockets with a modified square drive extension. If you mill or grind three flats on the extension (after cutting off the female socket) it won't slip in the chuck. I would use a 3/8" square drive with a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter for the smaller tap sockets.

The taper spinning in the tailstock is another matter and one that has been recently addressed in another thread whose title I forgot.

Cole2534 · Jul 31, 2017

Scottl said:
Another option, although it might seem strange, would be to use Lisle tap sockets with a modified square drive extension.

I used to use a 1/4" hex to 1/4" square drive adapter in the chuck and then 12pt sockets to grip the square on the tap. It's kind of clunky, but it works. Then I bought an Albrecht. :0

As far as your taper spinning, use some marking ink on a clean male taper to inspect the female taper. The technique is well documented on the site, just do some googling.

And R8? No, no one wants to fiddle with a drawbar in a tailstock.

k3vyl · Jul 31, 2017

There are tap holders with MT outside diameters. I have two of them,cant remember the sizes.they work well.Once you start the tap with one of them you can switch to a tap handle and get a very straight thread.

Rudd · Jul 31, 2017

I bet the female taper is galled. Check it with Cole's method. If it is, just ream the tailstock with a 2MT reamer. Made a world of difference on my 13.

M.B. Naegle · Jul 31, 2017

If you're tapers or drill chucks are slipping, they are either damaged, dirty, or your tool is dull. I can't see a reason to re-invent your tail-stock for the scenario you describe.

Illinoyance · Jul 31, 2017

If you need to drive a tool requiring high torque, make an adapter that slides over the tailstock spindle and has a key to engage the keyway on the bottom of the spindle. I made one many years ago to drive a 1 7/8 shell reamer. If I were making one today to drive taps I would probably fit it with a male 1/2 square and us Lisle tap collets.

hitandmiss · Jul 31, 2017

I use large Jacobs chucks on my 10L
I make a 4-6" long stub that fits in the chuck key hole with .005" or so slop.
Then put a chunk of 3/8" or 1/2" square stock in the Aloris holder with 3-4" of stock sticking out to rest the bar in the chuck key hole on.

Oil up the bed so the T/S slides nicely and let it free float for tapping.

If you overwork the key way on the quill, you create raised burrs that cause problems.

Bill

Cosnar16 · Aug 1, 2017

hardtail69 said:
does anyone make an r8 based tail stock that will fit a model 9a south bend lathe? thinking oF getting another tail stock and making one my self.Is it feasible? yes i am a newbie with a lot of questions lol. the reason i am asking is slippage i get it whenever i try using a tap even just a 3/8-16. either the mt2 slips or the Jacobs chuck slips but it is always one or the other i can never seem to get them tight enough. i will get them started straight then they slip and I end up taking it off the machine to finish it in a vice. Is there any help for this problem?
I thought maybe an R8 version of the tail stock might be feasible. i already have r8 collets for my small mill. and they never ever slip on me

This wouldn't be possible anyways. An R8 has a threaded hole in the back to close the collet, and it wouldn't work as just a 'press in' taper such as the MT. You Would need a way to lock down the R8 collet, then have a separate screw to move the tail stock in / out, which means it would need to go on the outside of the quill, requiring LOTS of modifications- not to mention you'd have to remove the quill from the tail stock every time you wanted to change the tool out.

packrat2 · Aug 1, 2017

You can buy a tool post drill chuck, it may help with the problem Products - Lathe - Edge Technology

gadget73 · Aug 1, 2017

Rudd said:
I bet the female taper is galled. Check it with Cole's method. If it is, just ream the tailstock with a 2MT reamer. Made a world of difference on my 13.

Same. Clean up the taper, it will hold just fine.

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