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Removing Dark Patina from Cast Iron?

tobnpr

Hot Rolled
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
For no real reason, decided to try to make my backplate, dog plate and dogs a little prettier :nutter:

Degreaser doesn't do it (Purple Power), is there a way to remove it? Considered spinning the plates on the lathe and carefully using Scotch Brite; perhaps bead blasting (for the dogs)?
 
If you take a fresh cut across the surfaces you'll expose fresh material that will be shinier. Depending on the quality of the CI it may end up a bit "hairy" too. I just did this on a face plate and it ended up shiny and hairy, but flat enough for my purposes. Wax may help prolong the look. Bead/sand blasting will turn it dull gray in my experience. In the end it isn't worth the effort. If you want it shiny and silver for a long time buy a new plate to look at or paint it.
 
For no real reason, decided to try to make my backplate, dog plate and dogs a little prettier :nutter:

Degreaser doesn't do it (Purple Power), is there a way to remove it? Considered spinning the plates on the lathe and carefully using Scotch Brite; perhaps bead blasting (for the dogs)?

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i work with fixtures and parts weighing tons. nylon abrasive and a coarse bench stone removes rust after you wiped any oil or grease off. then i wipe with alcohol rag and stone with a fine stone. rust and oil coolant the stone will not go over smooth. you will feel something is there. keep working at cleaning, stoning and eventually it stones smoothly
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nylon abrasive pad in a 2 or 3" right angle air grinder speeds things up on really rusty stuff.
 
ScotchBrite or other non-woven abrasive pads. Generally four choices for how aggressive you want the grit to be. Rub with oil, makes a big difference.
 
You might try Evapo-Rust or similar product. There are a few products out there including one made by WD-40. These work pretty well with rust or like kind discoloration and are pretty much non-toxic watery solutions that you just soak your parts in for a few hours or overnight and parts come out looking pretty clean.
CWC(4)
 
+1 on Evaporust. It is very good at removing things other solvents won't touch, like hardened coolant, while not harming paint. One other thing I use a lot is automotive wheel cleaner. Get the type that says " All wheels" or safe for painted wheels. If that won't get it off then Evaporust will
 
I use wd40 and a fine grit sandpaper or emory cloth, like 320 to 600 grit. Spay down the work and sandpaper, it won't leave scratches this way. Just wipe it off with a rag when done. Comes up nice imo.
 
Am I the only one that likes the patina?

It seems like bright, fresh iron rusts more easily.

Also I think darkened iron looks better, like the machine is a workhorse with some experience.
 
I've read this thread from day to day, wondering...why? Why go to all that trouble when the "patina" or modest oxidation will just come back? It'll be a never-ending occupation unless you clear-coat the pieces after polishing them up.
 








 
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