Removing play on compound with imperial/metric dials

I'm in the process of cleaning and reassembling my 10K which I've finally gotten into the basement (more about the acquisition and move later). There is excessive play in the compound that I would like to correct. It is due to the gap between the threads on the dial bushing and the large diameter section on the lead screw seen in this picture: I'm not sure how to dissemble the screw from the dial to add a bushing, or if there is some other way to make the adjustment. This lathe has the nice imperial/metric dials with internal gearing, and the crank handle attached differently from what's shown in the Ilion book or info I can find on line. The is a pin the looks like it's driven through the handle (see pic).. There is a screw with a slot that goes all the way across holding the handle on rather the usual nut. The screw doesn't want to loosen with the pin in place, and I don't know if the pin goes through it. Do I just drive the pin out and force the screw?

Thanks in advance for all replies,

Jon

I think if you look close the pin is actually a set screw, and if you loosen it you can tighten the screw to take out slop.

iwananew10K said:

I think if you look close the pin is actually a set screw, and if you loosen it you can tighten the screw to take out slop.

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Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think it's a set screw, but I'm not positive. Here's a close up. I looks like a roll pin, and my smallest allen wrench (1/16") is too big for the hole. On the other hand, there does seem to be a beveled edge on the hole in the handle, suggesting it might be threaded. The central hole in the pin is quite deep and almost reaches to the center of the lead screw. The reason I thought it was a pin initially is that there is a solid pin on the opposite side.

On the cross slide handle, there are protruding pins on both sides. One looks like it might be an abused roll pin.

So, I'm still confused. Why are there pins on both sides? The lathe was built in 1979.

Jon

You are in luck...Brad(the mod here) has a video I think will help, his machine is a 13" but the dial construction I would suspect is the same.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jv9mBpH6W0M

Edit- yours appears to be entirely different, disregard.
Maybe check with Ted(SBLatheman) to see if he has any info on the 10k inch/metric dials.

[email protected]

I did watch the video, but mine are indeed different. I think they are a factory version rather than the add-on kit. I sent SBLatheman a messeage.

found this, seems to indicate that the 10k dials were only available as a customer installed kit, so you may be a the mercy of whoever installed it.

http://neme-s.org/Shaper Books/South Bend/SB Lathe Accessories Bruchure.pdf

I am going to go out on a limb here since I have never seen those in person (but I feel like speculating).
Imagine that there was a taper pin in there originally (since we know SB loved taper pins), and it went all the way though, pinning the screw.
Someone tries to get it out by hitting the big end, and of course it does not come out.
Next step, they drill it out until the screw can turn, and then on reassembly they stick in a roll pin.

Just a guess of course, but it kind of explains the current scenario.

jkopel said:

I am going to go out on a limb here since I have never seen those in person (but I feel like speculating).
Imagine that there was a taper pin in there originally (since we know SB loved taper pins), and it went all the way though, pinning the screw.
Someone tries to get it out by hitting the big end, and of course it does not come out.
Next step, they drill it out until the screw can turn, and then on reassembly they stick in a roll pin.

Just a guess of course, but it kind of explains the current scenario.

Click to expand...

Makes sense. Assuming this is correct, whats the best way out? I never tried to drill out a roll pin, but I would guess that they're pretty hard.

The lathe went from South Bend to a machinery dealer, and then directly into a high school shop were it lived until recently. I can't tell from the factory card if the inch/metric dials were original, but they may have been added by the dealer or the school. The brochure that iwananew10k provided (thanks!) shows that by 1998 they were only available as a kit.

10 points to jkopel! I just drove out both roll pin and the solid pin from the solid pin side. Looks like you had it exactly right.

Thanks!

Jon

jdgoguen said:

I did watch the video, but mine are indeed different. I think they are a factory version rather than the add-on kit. I sent SBLatheman a messeage.

Click to expand...

Apparently you didn't get my reply...??
Check your spam.
Ted

Glad it worked out for you!