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Rigger crashed my south bend... advice?

Mbergfalk

Plastic
Joined
Aug 23, 2017
So after saving up and looking for what seems like forever I finally decided to buy a 70's 13" southbend. The guy I bought it from runs a machinery supply company and he recommends a professional rigging company to move it for me. I decide a professional would be better so I call em up. The guy goes and picks it up and brings it to my house. He unloads it with a forklift and as he's coming up the driveway the machine slides down and crashes into the front of the fork lift effectively smashing the cross slide handle and bending the screw. As you can imagine I'm pretty bummed. So they send over a repair guy and he pulls the screw and takes it to go get "straightened". A couple days later he comes back with the screw and puts it back in the machine. Well,it's still not right. There is a pretty tight spot when turning the handle where there wasn't one before. I called the rigger and let him know it wasn't right and also let the people who "fixed" it know. That was 3 weeks ago..... machine is still not fixed and I'm getting increasingly pissed. Anyhow, to get to my question. There is another southbend lathe at the place I bought mine from. The machine isn't in as good of condition as mine but It's got a taper attachment on it and I'm wondering if I could just pull the screw and the taper attachment off that one and put it on mine and then they can deal with the bent screw they messed up however they want. As far as I can tell it should just bolt right on to my machine and should work fine but I'm being told that it won't fit because they are all fitted and scraped at the factory and blah blah blah. I'm thinking it's just the screw and the taper part. Not the whole crossslide and compound that needs to be switched so it should be fine? Any advise? I'd really like to get this machine right so I can start playing with it. Also, the machine with the taper on it has over 100thou backlash. I'm being told that "taper attachments won't be as tight because the nut floats"? Does that make any sense to anyone? Thanks in advance for any info and HI! I'm new here...
 
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pretty sloppy of the rigger. I don't do it professionally, but have moved my share of heavy machines, and the heavier it is the more it wants to slide on slick forks. I always have things clamped or strapped, always. Or better yet, in a sling, hanging under the forks.
 
The rigger should be insured for damages. He should be able to have someone make you a replacment screw using yours as a sample. The machinery dealer should find a shop that can do it for the rigger. They need to make it right for you.
 
Just make a new screw. For Christ's sake, you just bought a lathe.

Hey Wes, he's not going to make a new screw on a lathe with a, err, damaged screw. Or without a follower rest. Or without the travel needed, as usually a lathe's Z screw is longer than its CC. And Acme threads aren't for beginners anyway.
 
I have witnessed enough experts screw stuuf up , I am willing to to stop them if I don't like what I see.

I dropped off a money order at a bank for a loan payment, got a call I needed to come back and provide ID....

Told the caller they were a moron and only an idiot would think I nneded to provide ID when tendering as payment. She hung up on me.

Payment credited to my account a few days later.
 
I have witnessed enough experts screw stuuf up , I am willing to to stop them if I don't like what I see.

I dropped off a money order at a bank for a loan payment, got a call I needed to come back and provide ID....

Told the caller they were a moron and only an idiot would think I nneded to provide ID when tendering as payment. She hung up on me.

Payment credited to my account a few days later.

This reminds me of the time I went to the Post Office to pay for my PO box.
I had written a check for the amount and the clerk asked me for ID.

I told him it would be pretty stupid for me to bounce a check for my box rent which would result in my box being locked and I would no longer be able to get my mail.:willy_nilly:
 
I don't know the answers to your questions about the interchangeability of parts but I'll comment on whole situation.

It sounds like the dealer isn't offering much help. If you hired the rigger, why should he?

I hope you have documentation regarding all elements of the problem.

Did you take photos of the lathe damage on the forklift, including the rigger?

Did the dealer hire the rigger or did you?

Do you have an invoice from the rigger?

Who sent the repair guy (the dealer or the rigger)?

Do you have the repair guys contact info so he can be located again?

I would put your story in writing an document everything.

Ultimately, if the principals won't repair it to your satisfaction, you get it fixed and demand reimbursement.

Small claims court is an option if you can prove your case.

I hope it turns out OK in the end.
 
This is on the rigger and they should be insured.

Be straight with them and give them a chance to make it right. Make sure it is right to your satisfaction and be clear if it isn't.

If they won't make it right or stop responding to you, file small claims court. Most of the time you will get great service pretty soon after they have been served by the sheriff.
 
First, I would not own a lathe without a taper attachment. Installing a TA is not rocket science, but it is exacting. You must get it right. You have an ideal opportunity to both fix the lathe and upgrade it with a TA. Please note that there are several differences between the same lathes with and without a TA in the carriage area. The cross feed screw and nut are a common area to suffer wear and it is a good idea to replaced these parts on a used lathe anyway.

I had the identical situation with my 13x40 SB. My machine came from the USAF and I bought it from a friend that proceeded to drop it on its front face of his forklift, so it suffered the identical problems you are facing, plus a few more. My lathe also has a TA. I ended up replacing many parts including the cross feed screw and nut. I did this 20 years ago and replacement parts were still available from SB, but even if parts are not still available, making replacements can easily be done. I am not sure just what model lathe you have. SB made several 13" lathe models. I suspect mine is newer than yours and there are different styles of TAs used between models. Mine is actually made in Korea for SB, but in any case, the repair will essentially be the same. The repair can be a bit fiddly, as there are small dimensional differences from machine to machine. So be prepared to make adjustments as you go. The cross feed screw most likely will not be plug and play. Lastly, you should do all the work yourself if you can, it will be both educational and fun. I, and I'm sure, others here on the forum will be glad to help with any questions that may arise.
 
Yes. One would think. Like I've said they tried to fix it and it's not suitable. it's been over a month and going back and forth between these clowns is frustrating. I'm asking about the taper attachment because it seems like a viable solution. The story about the damage is strictly for the sake of hopefully giving some perspective so that I might be able to get help solving my problem. Anyone please?
 
Hey Wes, he's not going to make a new screw on a lathe with a, err, damaged screw. Or without a follower rest. Or without the travel needed, as usually a lathe's Z screw is longer than its CC. And Acme threads aren't for beginners anyway.

Seems like that would be farely obvious. Thank you
 
If you paid by credit card it might be time to involve the issuing company. If you can prove that the damage was done by the rigger, at the least you should be able to get a credit for whatever his fee was.

Not a lawyer, my advice is worth my consulting fee...
 
Sorry again for being a noob here but I'm having an issue with the screen shaking on my iPhone. It's almost like it's having a seizure. It's nearly impossible to read other comments. I'm wondering If it's a site issue or my own device.
 
I have witnessed enough experts screw stuuf up , I am willing to to stop them if I don't like what I see.

I dropped off a money order at a bank for a loan payment, got a call I needed to come back and provide ID....

Told the caller they were a moron and only an idiot would think I nneded to provide ID when tendering as payment. She hung up on me.

Payment credited to my account a few days later.

Im sorry... how is this about you?
 
Fine on iPad.

Word of advice, appreciate all replys on forums even if they don't seem to directly relate...the replys keep your topic in the new posts and more people will see it.

Sorry about your luck, I do hope you get it resolved.
 
I don't know the answers to your questions about the interchangeability of parts but I'll comment on whole situation.

It sounds like the dealer isn't offering much help. If you hired the rigger, why should he?

I hope you have documentation regarding all elements of the problem.

Did you take photos of the lathe damage on the forklift, including the rigger?

Did the dealer hire the rigger or did you?

Do you have an invoice from the rigger?

Who sent the repair guy (the dealer or the rigger)?

Do you have the repair guys contact info so he can be located again?

I would put your story in writing an document everything.

Ultimately, if the principals won't repair it to your satisfaction, you get it fixed and demand reimbursement.

Small claims court is an option if you can prove your case.

I hope it turns out OK in the end.


I'm not a hard ass and I'm really hoping it doesn't come to this but yes I've been making notes and I've believe I've got enough to make a claim in court however that would be a very last, very, very last resort.
 








 
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