SB used heavy 10 questions

FlyinChip · Dec 20, 2017

I think i already know the answer but I'm really looking to get a lathe for home usage and saw this heavy 10 in person.

The ways are dinged up and appear also scored along the length. Also, I can pull the chuck in and out I would guess 20 thou (axial), maybe more, although I felt no movement side to side (radial).

It's not running so I think no way to check things like the gears, but I'm not sure how anyway. So any advice how to check the gears etc of a lathe that is not plugged in would be helpful.

Meanwhile the search for a good tight SB continues...

iwananew10K · Dec 21, 2017

That pic doesn't help any...just to look at id say it looks ok...but looks are meaningless almost to the point it looks like Leatherface had an angle grinder and deep seated hatred for old iron.

You don't need power, but without it I would want to take some oil and wipe it down a bit where it matters, but don't so far as to increase the price for the next guy...also take a mag base with an indicator.

once you got it wiped down so you can make the carriage without grinding the crud in sick the mag base on the left side saddle wing and put the indicator point down on the tailstock flat way...if you get much more than .010" movement from one end to the other, stop right there and offer scrap price.

If it checks out then check all functions by turning the spindle by hand(put some oil in the cups)look at the gears for missing teeth and such, don't worry too much about axial slop in the spindle, but do check the up and down play and for rotation, put some oil in the coutershaft cups and check it too.etc,ect..

Learn all you can online beforehand, have a plan of attack, it shouldn't take any more than 20 minutes.

FlyinChip · Dec 21, 2017

Don't I see really deep channels scored into the ways here? And I thought that was really bad?

iwananew10K · Dec 21, 2017

I can't speak for anyone else but stuff like that is very hard to see on a screen...if it's there and its deep then pass on it...only you can tell for sure.

hsracer201 · Dec 21, 2017

I see so many inexpensive Heavy 10's every week on CL in the far northeast that I'd wait it out for a good one. Better move fast when you see one within a half day drive though.

thomasutley · Dec 21, 2017

The photo shows the typical "South Bend ridge" on the back side of the front carriage vee way. However much material is missing on the inclined way causes a much larger vertical drop in the saddle due to trigonometry. Also, however much wear there is on the bed way, you can assume the underside of the saddle is worn more because it sees 100% of the carriage movement whereas the bed ways, being longer than the saddle, only see a portion of the movement.

Still doesn't mean the machine is junk, just means that you'll likely turn a taper over long distances until you get used to bumping the crossfeed mid-cut and polishing out the step with emery after the fact.

Good luck finding the right machine for you, and by that I mean your budget because that's really all that matters on your first home shop machine.

FlyinChip · Dec 21, 2017

If you click the picture, it gets bigger, click it again, bigger still! Pretty easy to then see the deeply grooved ways. To my eye, atrocious.

Here is the lathe I was on today, by comparison. All of them same, zero grooves on the ways which are flat as glass. The chucks at the shop today dont pull in and out at all, or in a couple cases extremely little, I checked them.

Here are pic of good looking ways:

iwananew10K · Dec 21, 2017

is that the Colchester?

FlyinChip · Dec 21, 2017

hsracer201 said:
I see so many inexpensive Heavy 10's every week on CL in the far northeast that I'd wait it out for a good one. Better move fast when you see one within a half day drive though.

thanks for all the replies. what are these going for as usual used price?

btw here's one out of my budget, but if anyone cares to give some thoughts:

HEAVY "1" SOUTH BEND TOOLROOM LATHE 11 VOLT TAPER ATTACH--5-C COLLETS-TOOLING | eBay

FlyinChip · Dec 21, 2017

hsracer201 said:
I see so many inexpensive Heavy 10's every week on CL in the far northeast that I'd wait it out for a good one. Better move fast when you see one within a half day drive though.

thanks for the replies

I dont see many here in new England but will keep looking. Whats the going price for a heavy 10? is it worth buying things later like collets, chucks, taper attachment, and around what do those go for? (so I can evaluate price)

here's one on ebay that is way out of my price range, but wondering what any thought about it:

HEAVY "1" SOUTH BEND TOOLROOM LATHE 11 VOLT TAPER ATTACH--5-C COLLETS-TOOLING | eBay

MrWhoopee · Dec 21, 2017

FlyinChip said:
thanks for the replies

I dont see many here in new England but will keep looking. Whats the going price for a heavy 10? is it worth buying things later like collets, chucks, taper attachment, and around what do those go for? (so I can evaluate price)

here's one on ebay that is way out of my price range, but wondering what any thought about it:

It's way cheaper to buy a machine that has the components you want, especially things like the taper attachment. You will quickly double the price of a cheap machine if you have to buy many extras.

Derek Smalls · Dec 21, 2017

First, Welcome to the forum. Tons of great info here, use Google to search old threads that will contain all kinds of info. Google works better for me than the site's search feature.

My question is why are you looking for a heavy 10, or even a South Bend for that matter, specifically?
Lots of other machines out there, especially ones that are a little bigger that are not as chased after by home shop guys, can be grabbed for really good prices. Seems like even SB 13's, which are only slightly bigger than a heavy 10, go for way less.
Lots of other really great lathe makers made machines in the 12"-14" range, you can find some in great shape and very reasonably priced. Even if the cost of rigging adds to the total, you may wind up with a slightly larger, more capable machine in the long run, for about the same money you would lay out for a well equipped, good condition heavy 10.

clausing lathe - tools - by owner - sale

This is just an example of what I mean is available. I'm not connected to the seller and I know nothing about the machine.

hsracer201 · Dec 22, 2017

FlyinChip said:
thanks for the replies

I dont see many here in new England but will keep looking. Whats the going price for a heavy 10? is it worth buying things later like collets, chucks, taper attachment, and around what do those go for? (so I can evaluate price)

here's one on ebay that is way out of my price range, but wondering what any thought about it:

HEAVY "1" SOUTH BEND TOOLROOM LATHE 11 VOLT TAPER ATTACH--5-C COLLETS-TOOLING | eBay

I scored one once for $330 and I have seen them sell on eBay for over $5,000. It all depends on condition, bed length, tooling, accessories, etc.

That one on eBay isn't a bad deal for what you get, but it looks like Stevie Wonder painted it the morning after a bad acid trip.

Generally speaking there is nothing more expensive than a cheap lathe.

JohnEvans · Dec 22, 2017

Here in AZ that SB is a smoking deal if it is as good as it looks. The Clausing looks like of of the Coleceshters made in England. Given equal condition a MUCH better machine.

FlyinChip · Dec 24, 2017

Found another heavy 10R (with the smaller spindle bore). 3ft bed, very clean, 120v motor, 3 and 4 jaw chuck, old style lantern tool post, some tooling and a chuck for the tailstock. Very clean. Cant really tell about the ways but looks not bad, a little scoring. I don't really know how to tell so we'll see. Paid 950.

FlyinChip · Dec 24, 2017

Closeup of closest way... thoughts?

iwananew10K · Dec 24, 2017

I think it doesn't matter, because you already bought it.

But,seriously, watch this...this is how you set it up for best possible performance...for your machine use about 1.5"-2" bar and have about 6" sticking out of the chuck.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XZP0o06gsco

Ps- you can swap the small bore spindle for the large bore one....its a direct swap.

FlyinChip · Dec 24, 2017

I only have a deposit on it. Then I started looking at the pictures i took and saw the vee wear groove. Hoping I can get an idea before Tuesday if I should back out.

iwananew10K said:
I think it doesn't matter, because you already bought it.

But,seriously, watch this...this is how you set it up for best possible performance...for your machine use about 1.5"-2" bar and have about 6" sticking out of the chuck.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XZP0o06gsco

Ps- you can swap the small bore spindle for the large bore one....its a direct swap.

packardbill · Dec 24, 2017

If it is in good condition, the Clausing-Colchester is a much better machine for less money, and it's in R.I.
The ways look good from the pics, but you can't see all of them. It has a L spindle so you would be able to safely
turn in reverse, and it already has a bigger spindle bore. The Aloris toolpost is a plus, too. It's a heavier machine which affords more harmonic/vibration absorption. The extra weight has to be considered for moving. Parts availability for the heavy 10 is better, however, if the headstock and gearing are quiet on the C-C, they are probably in good condition. If you're going to turn firing pins and make bushings, the S.B. is fine, and capable of bigger work, but it takes longer. If you're thinking of doing heavier work, the C-C is the way to go.
YOU need to decide what YOU need. I have nothing against the heavy ten, I own and use one. Hope this helps.PB

FlyinChip · Dec 24, 2017

thanks. I tried calling on that Clausen a couple different times, no answer.

But since I already put a deposit on the heavy 10, and said I would go to get it tuesday morning, I'm hoping someone can at least look at the picture showing the ridge in the picture above and say if that looks "bad" or moderate" or whatever, based on experience. I know from searching here that its not scientific, but the picture of that ridge may say something to someone.

I am learning here. Hoping not to make too big a mistake with this.

packardbill said:
If it is in good condition, the Clausing-Colchester is a much better machine for less money, and it's in R.I.
The ways look good from the pics, but you can't see all of them. It has a L spindle so you would be able to safely
turn in reverse, and it already has a bigger spindle bore. The Aloris toolpost is a plus, too. It's a heavier machine which affords more harmonic/vibration absorption. The extra weight has to be considered for moving. Parts availability for the heavy 10 is better, however, if the headstock and gearing are quiet on the C-C, they are probably in good condition. If you're going to turn firing pins and make bushings, the S.B. is fine, and capable of bigger work, but it takes longer. If you're thinking of doing heavier work, the C-C is the way to go.
YOU need to decide what YOU need. I have nothing against the heavy ten, I own and use one. Hope this helps.PB

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