Seeking Spray Welding Advice to Repair top of a Compound on SB13"

ebenbildmicroscopes · Sep 8, 2012

Several years ago, I purchased a 1967 (according to the serial number) Southbend 13" with double tumbler gearbox. It was apparently made just prior to when the beds were all flame hardened for the thirteens - which has always been a little bit of a let down, but "down south" these machines are not so easily acquired! At any rate, I'm assuming the thing must have been used in a school because the top of the compound has been beat to death with chuck crashes. The machine seems otherwise fairly normal - ie backlash where you would anticipate - the sleeve bearings in the head are beautiful - I think I'm the first one to ever tear into them.

I've heard that "spray welding" is the way to go to build this compound back up: #1 - anyone got advice regarding reputable welder, #2 - anyone had problems with warping or distortion in connection with the heat of the welding process..............educate me where to start and any lessons learned!

THANKS, in advance, for any assistance............I gotta get this machine fixed up pretty and running!

promacjoe · Sep 9, 2012

he stated his opinion, and you stated yours. Each of you Has a right to Your own opinions. As does everyone else. But I do not see the need of using profanity on this board. I for one look forward to civil and meaningful Discussions. And the use of profanity is not Civil. Please remember this is an open To view board. you do not have to be a member to read it, and people of all ages are allowed to view it.

stay safe.

and by the way, I totally agree with thermite's opinion.

ebenbildmicroscopes · Sep 9, 2012

@thermite - Hey Bill, I will try to post some pics. Several years ago, on PM, you had to upload through an external photo sharing and therefore, I have never posted any pics on here. I have seen some promotional pics for the spray-welding process that were pretty miraculous AND was encouraged on here (back when I bought the machine) that that was the process to look into - I just never followed through.

@promacjoe - what are you talking about? I hope I didn't offend - I love my SB!

promacjoe · Sep 9, 2012

Unless there was some major glitch in the system, Apparently the post is already been removed by the moderator.
It was located Between thermite's post and mine.
Please disregard.

Stay safe.

jim rozen · Sep 9, 2012

I can't see any photos of the damage but one approach to repairs like this
can be, machine out the broken portion, silver solder a piece of cast iron
in place, and then machine to match.

Often a new, used casting can be sourced that allows one to trade
money for time.

Mebfab · Sep 9, 2012

If you are determined to repair not replace, Industrial flame sprayers Industrial Metal Flame Sprayers Inc. - Durham, NC does spray welding. Bring it over and ask them.

The trick is to get the old codger that has worked there since time began. The newer kids are not as knowledgeable. Last I was in there he was semi retired. Maybe the economic crash wiped out his savings like so many others and he is back in harness.

I have the rig and powder. But never used.

sealark37 · Sep 9, 2012

I'm not sure what you mean by "down south" having to do with flame hardened beds. Your address indicates that you are close to two major interstate highways. Could you possibly mean that you weren't able to find a flame hardened lathe bed "down the street". If you are seeking a machine that is capable of precision work, why purchase one that needs major repair just because it is close to you? Sounds to me that you might just be missing the "good old days, up north". Regards, Clark

ebenbildmicroscopes · Sep 9, 2012

@Mebfab - I see you're in Mebane, and I believe I read a GREAT post of yours one time that detailed your shop getting broken into and dealing with the local Bernard P. Fifes - I'm the music director for Mebane Presbyterian Church as a second job and have enjoyed seeing that there's someone nearby on here! I'll give the folks in Durham a call. There used to be a place in New York state somewhere that had a great website showing examples of repair work they had done just like this and, of course, I can't seem to find the link anymore.

@sealark37 - I had always wanted one of the SB 13s so my "down south" was really just a sortuv desperation at finding a SB 13 at all. I paid too much for mine from a machinery dealer in Baltimore and drove up there in my Volvo S70 towing a one ton utility trailer and got the thing home. OF COURSE, after I bought it, about three of them showed up on Ebay with said "flame-hardened" beds for about half of what I shelled out for mine. Two were in Michigan and the third in California, as I recall. Mine does have a slight ridge on the front V-way. Mine is also just at the time when they switched from the brass, raised lettering tags with red background over to the dark blue/black screen printed tags. At any rate, my comment was more intended to reflect my frustration at trying to find a SB 13/double tumbler at all

ebenbildmicroscopes · Sep 9, 2012

Also, if I can get the slide built up, I've got the facilities to mill and massage the thing back to match its former glory - I actually enjoy that part of the work!

Mebfab · Sep 9, 2012

Found plenty of lathes down south. But no pizza

Mebfab · Sep 9, 2012

I was free labor in my parents pizza shop. Oddly there are child labor laws in effect. But not when it is your own kid.

aametalmaster · Sep 9, 2012

Your compound can easily be fixed with a mig welder and a 2# spool of Crown Alloys 44-30 mig wire for cast iron. No preheat is needed and the color match is perfect. Weld then polish off to suit...Bob

PeterJ · Sep 9, 2012

No pictures yet , so I'll show mine .
It's pretty bad ; had to have been a school lathe .
Instructor must have been deaf . Drrrrrrrt !
When I got it the gib was loose and it would just barely move .
I filed and scraped on it , and it's OK , but could use more time spent on it .
First time on the surface plate it only touched on the four corners .
The problem with SB-13 parts is most sellers think they're gold ; so I'm being patient .
Here's hoping OP has good luck with repair , so there's less competition if one comes up for auction .

ebenbildmicroscopes · Sep 9, 2012

@Bob Wright - THAT'S EXACTLY what I wanted to hear! Armed with those specifics, I'll have a step ahead. Thank you very much!

@PeterJ - Now I'm worried that you have somehow figured out how to break in my shop and photograph my machines - that looks almost identical to my compound, only mine is that bad on both sides. Yours is worse as far as the slide, but we're, basically, in the same boat. I will make an effort, tomorrow, to post a pic. Mine also could use a little build-up in the tool holder slot and then be re-milled for a sharp inside corner! YOUR PIC IS WORTH A THOUSAND WORDS!

aametalmaster · Sep 9, 2012

@PETERJ if you wrap a SS hose clamp around to the top of the numbers it too can be welded with no damage to the numbers. You can weld right up to the clamp but a strip of alum would be better...Bob

iwananew10K · Sep 9, 2012

PeterJ said:
Drrrrrrrt !

ok, now i`m suspicious... just how is it you know what the chuck hitting the compound sounds like? :skep:

oh crap!

i guess the bigger question is how is it *I* know what it sounds like!

LOL!!

cegreen · Sep 10, 2012

aametalmaster said:
Your compound can easily be fixed with a mig welder and a 2# spool of Crown Alloys 44-30 mig wire for cast iron. No preheat is needed and the color match is perfect. Weld then polish off to suit...Bob

Thanks, Bob - this is very useful info!

Do you happen to have any pictures of repairs you've made with the CA 44-30 mig wire? I'd love to see what it looks like.

Does the heat-affected zone in the repaired part become impossibly hard from the localized heat and relatively rapid cooling?

-Chris

aametalmaster · Sep 10, 2012

cegreen said:
Thanks, Bob - this is very useful info!

Do you happen to have any pictures of repairs you've made with the CA 44-30 mig wire? I'd love to see what it looks like.

Does the heat-affected zone in the repaired part become impossibly hard from the localized heat and relatively rapid cooling?

-Chris

The repairs are still soft enough to file. Never tried drilling the area for the repairs i did. Here are a few pics of some odd jobs...

aametalmaster · Sep 10, 2012

A few more pics. I use copper in the holes and weld over it then drill it out when done...Bob

ebenbildmicroscopes · Sep 10, 2012

WOW - THAT'S impressive!

Seeking Spray Welding Advice to Repair top of a Compound on SB13"

Aluminum

Stainless

Aluminum

Stainless

Diamond

Diamond

Stainless

Aluminum

Aluminum

Diamond

Diamond

Diamond

Hot Rolled

Attachments

Aluminum

Diamond

Diamond

Aluminum

Diamond

Attachments

Diamond

Attachments

Aluminum

Similar threads