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Shim stock for leveling/installing 9A?

tobnpr

Hot Rolled
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Need to get some shims to install the new-to-me 9A (steel bench).
"Ordinary" level (looking for a Starrett) shows the bed to be out about 1/4" across it's length, and about 1/8" needed front to back.

Given that I have no idea what will ultimately be needed until I get into it, I was thinking about getting the 6"x12" assortment below, cutting the necessary thicknesses with snips in pieces stacked on top of flat steel bar stock as near to the bolts as I can get them.

Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies

Is this the way to go? Should I determine the amount of shim necessary to get the level, level across it's length first- then divide the total length between shims at the bed by that to at least get close with figuring what I'll need?
 
I used varying thicknesses of sheet steel and traced the outline of the feet onto them. Using tin snips I cut them out and got it awfully close. I don't have a precision level, but I used the bar test and got it within 0.0001 over 10". Close enough for my purposes.
 
Need to get some shims to install the new-to-me 9A (steel bench).
"Ordinary" level (looking for a Starrett) shows the bed to be out about 1/4" across it's length, and about 1/8" needed front to back.

Given that I have no idea what will ultimately be needed until I get into it, I was thinking about getting the 6"x12" assortment below, cutting the necessary thicknesses with snips in pieces stacked on top of flat steel bar stock as near to the bolts as I can get them.

Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies

Is this the way to go? Should I determine the amount of shim necessary to get the level, level across it's length first- then divide the total length between shims at the bed by that to at least get close with figuring what I'll need?
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you could use 4 feeler gage sets and use the feeler gages as temporary shims to measure what you need. then you could machine thick .250" shims or blocks the small differences needed. for example machine .005 off of 2 of the .250 shims. the .005 amount being measure by the feeler gages. you can machine the .250 blocks on the lathe.
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for little machines some people just make thick washers as shims in the thicknesses require for each foot of the lathe
 
Horrible Fright sells a body shim assortment that has 1/64, 1/32, 1/16, and 1/8 shims, 144 total, for $9 without a coupon.
After 1/64, go with sheet metal, and then aluminum foil. A Starrett master precision level can see a layer of aluminum foil on a 4' bed.

More appropriate precut shims are available, but are typically stainless steel and expensive. Around a buck each.
 
Horrible Fright sells a body shim assortment that has 1/64, 1/32, 1/16, and 1/8 shims, 144 total, for $9 without a coupon.
After 1/64, go with sheet metal, and then aluminum foil. A Starrett master precision level can see a layer of aluminum foil on a 4' bed.

More appropriate precut shims are available, but are typically stainless steel and expensive. Around a buck each.

Thanks for the HF tip- forgot about them. I wouldn't mind buying the SS, but without knowing exactly what's needed- and they're $20 for a pack of 10 or 20 like you said- it would be an exercise in futility and damage to my wallet. I may end up milling a block of aluminum to the thickness of the heavy shims when it's determined what's needed, then make up the difference with the sheet metal..

Thanks.
 
you literally could machine thick washers into different thicknesses and used them as shims. you can make you own shim set. washers are cheap at any hardware store.
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clutch collet is used to cut into a bit and hold thin washers you can also take a piece of round stock or piece of pipe with a saw cut length wise so it collapses and grabs washer using a 3 jaw chuck
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https://www.google.com/search?q=clu...uOwyAIVBmk-Ch2WDAsa&biw=1028&bih=601&dpr=1.25
 
Given the lathe is older than I am by only a decade or so... the bed isn't perfect.
And given the sensitivity of the machinist level, what is the best way to knock any high spots down to be sure the level isn't riding on one?

Any nick, or small gouge will displace metal, and cause a high spot there. How are these dealt with?
 
Given the lathe is older than I am by only a decade or so... the bed isn't perfect.
And given the sensitivity of the machinist level, what is the best way to knock any high spots down to be sure the level isn't riding on one?

Any nick, or small gouge will displace metal, and cause a high spot there. How are these dealt with?
.
a level can be put on 2 blocks of the same thickness at opposite ends of the level to span a rough surface. you could also get a abrasive stone and stone off anything sticking up, from any ding left from something dropped on lathe
 








 
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