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Source for 1-1/2"-8T , ER40 Collet Chuck for Spindle Nose?

tobnpr

Hot Rolled
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Does anyone know of a source for this? I have an MT3 mount, but want one that'll thread to the spindle nose (for feed-through).

Can't find this animal anywhere.
 
Not exactly what you want but, I bought, a few months ago, an ER40 D1-4 collet chuck on eBay that does allow feed-through. Something like this:
125MM DIAMETER, D1-3 ER-4 COLLET CHUCK (391-541)


Perhaps a combination of D1-4 adapter to threaded spindle plus the same collet chuck as mine would be an option although, I admit, not ideal.

Good luck,

Jacques
 
just bolt it to a backplate.

ER - FIXTURES

+1 I have a couple of them from that source. Decent enough.

Cast iron backplates from Shars have been OK as well.

If you want forged steel backplates, Bison and Fuerda/Gator - among others - both have them.
Pricier. Not necessarily an upgrade. Steel is a tad more prone to bind on a threaded spindle than CI is.

Suggest at least one spare ER4- 'nut' and two wrenches. One to use and one to lose.

:)


Bill
 
"Bolting" it to a backplate...
Sounds very time consuming. Wouldn't one have to indicate the hole pattern, then transfer that precisely to a backplate? Don't have a CNC mill...


Perhaps a combination of D1-4 adapter to threaded spindle plus the same collet chuck as mine would be an option although, I admit, not ideal.

Might look at this. But, trying to avoid tolerance stacking. I need to maintain the precision of the collets- or it's useless to me.
 
If I didn't already have a Jacobs rubberflex for the nose, (up to 1-1/2" collet capacity) I might well make my own threaded backplate and consider mounting one of these onto it:

1MM DIAMETER ER-4 COLLET CHUCK (391-536) | eBay

easy to make adjus-tru, if desired, as well.

"Things you can make on your South Bend lathe" - another option for direct fit is to buy an ER40 collet chuck on integral 50 taper shank with minimal projection. Then cut off the shank to a suitable length, and bore and thread it to fit. Carbide tooling, of course. These tend to be quite hard on the surfaces, a bit more machinable 1/8" in.

Widax BT5/4-32 256.14.333 Collet Chuck Tool Holder BT5 Taper ER4 Collet Sz | eBay

smt_rubberflexhardinge1.jpg


smt_rubberflexhardinge3.jpg


Since, as mentioned, (& shown) there is already a Jacobs on the nose of this lathe, the "other" Jacobs rubberflex chuck is being machined to Hardinge 4° taper for use on an ESM lathe.

smt_rubberflexhardinge4.jpg


smt_rubberflexhardinge5.jpg
 
"Bolting" it to a backplate...
Sounds very time consuming. Wouldn't one have to indicate the hole pattern, then transfer that precisely to a backplate? Don't have a CNC mill...

Might look at this. But, trying to avoid tolerance stacking. I need to maintain the precision of the collets- or it's useless to me.

*sigh*... fitting backplates to chucks and collet systems has been covered 'many many' times on PM. And elsewhere.

Not clear at the moment whom is useless to which if you have not / will not take that rich set of usefulness on-board.

:(
 
*sigh*... fitting backplates to chucks and collet systems has been covered 'many many' times on PM. And elsewhere.

Not clear at the moment whom is useless to which if you have not / will not take that rich set of usefulness on-board.

:(

Someone pee on your leg today, pal?

I simply asked for suggestions. Not everyone on this board has four decades of experience as a machinist.

Suggest YOU lose your attitude. I don't have the patience for guys that talk tough from behind a keyboard.

THIS, is exactly what I want. Just was wondering if it's made commercially, as I STATED in my OP.

ER4 Collet Chuck

Didn't ask for an effing lecture. Now, stay the hell out of my thread.
 
If I didn't already have a Jacobs rubberflex for the nose, (up to 1-1/2" collet capacity) I might well make my own threaded backplate and consider mounting one of these onto it:

1MM DIAMETER ER-4 COLLET CHUCK (391-536) | eBay

easy to make adjus-tru, if desired, as well.
Aya. I have Jacobs 9XX, 5C, 2J, Multisize, and ER 40 on D1-3 arredy.

And yet, these 'loose' ER plate-mounts are SOOO damned handy I've taken to keeping at least one uncommitted 'spare' around. Coupla the smaller ER series as well. On spindle. Bench fixture.. yadda yadda at those prices.

Adjust-Tru, yes. But not-only.

Toss one in yer 4-J and you can doo that ....or .. set 'em off-centre to do odds and sods that need that.

Same trick works with the economical H&H /CDCO 5C key-cranker nose-art.

One is on D1-3, the other 'loose'. Cheap enough to toss one in the 4-J for uber-ocd centering .. or... offset turning.

Bill
 
There is no precision involved in drilling the holes.

They are just clearance holes,transfer punch and drill em oversize.

There is good reason why there is not a "commercially" made one to fit a threaded spindle.
 
Or, if you haven't the skill, time, equipment and proper attitude, out shop it.

Be nice and accept what is offered to you and you will a lot of cooperation. Have an attitude and you will get none. Your choice.

Tom
 
to add...at first blush just transfer punching and drilling oversize might seem totally hack, but hear me out.

you buy one of those HHIP ER40 fixtures and a Shars backplate(they ain't bad as noted)

You screw it the backplate on and off your spindle a few times to "break it in" so that it will repeat.

Turn a shoulder to a light press in the Er40 plate recess, then face the mounting surface of the backplate so it's nice and true.

take the backplate off and press the ER40 plate on.
Make a transfer punch to a nice slip in the 10x1.5mm holes, and make a dimple in the plate for the holes, pop it back apart.
Drill holes to say, 13/32" or even 7/16" - as mentioned they are just clearance holes.

Now just reinstall the backplate and turn the backplate shoulder down by about .010"

Bolt chuck to plate snug but not tight.

Install on lathe. Indicate the ER taper and gently tap it until its dead on, tighten the bolts fully.

Done. Takes much less time than you think.

Enjoy your new chuck.
 
If you really want it to run true, make it yourself from scratch. Turn the taper while it is mounted on your lathe. Buy the nut and spanner.

allan
 
If you really want it to run true, make it yourself from scratch. Turn the taper while it is mounted on your lathe. Buy the nut and spanner.

allan

This is an excellent suggestion, and not difficult to do. I'm far from a trained machinist and was able to make my own ER-32 collet chuck that screws directly onto the threaded spindle of my 10K. I also made the nut and a couple of spanners for it. As suggested you can also use the nut you have if you thread your chuck to match it. The runout is zilch.
 
This is an excellent suggestion, and not difficult to do. I'm far from a trained machinist and was able to make my own ER-32 collet chuck that screws directly onto the threaded spindle of my 10K. I also made the nut and a couple of spanners for it. As suggested you can also use the nut you have if you thread your chuck to match it. The runout is zilch.

Kudos to you on making the nut, Sir!

Getting them right is enough "not easy", I can't be bothered.

Besides, they wear in use, hence are 'consumables' in industry, sell pretty cheaply in lots of 3 or more.

Bill
 
...Didn't ask for an effing lecture. Now, stay the hell out of my thread...

With an attitude like that perhaps you should stay out of our forum. You're clearly in over your head if you don't understand the simple concept of mounting a chuck to a backplate.

The "pros" and "old heads" on this site have a collective knowledge the likes of which you'll find in no other place and the people who benefit the most are the ones who sit quietly and soak it all up...
 
ER40 Collet Chuck

Does anyone know of a source for this? I have an MT3 mount, but want one that'll thread to the spindle nose (for feed-through).

Can't find this animal anywhere.



Try Jan Michael of Tallgrass Tools Stillwater OK

Tallgrass Tools
I have had a few conversations with Jan and his prices seem fair to me.

Ernie
 
Beall tool makes these chucks for wood turners. They are available through most woodworking retailers and Amazon. I don't know if the body is hardened or what the runout tolerances are. They may not be suitable for metalworking.
 








 
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