South Bend 10 Taper Attachment Binding

S

silver star

Aluminum

Joined

Sep 19, 2013

Location

OK USA

• Aug 4, 2016

• #1

After 3 days on this project the last thing I needed to do was make a taper cut and polish.
Cross slide moves with no problem left and right and back and forward.
When I lock the cross slide clamp at bed the saddle wheel is very hard to turn left or right.
To the point of springing.
I have removed both gibs on cross slide and still binds.
I took this apart and cleaned it last year and thought it was good.
But now that I need it, well I think it has messed up my project.
Can someone provide an "Ah Ha" for me?
Thanks,
Michael
Clarification;
When I tighten down the taper clamp to bed of lathe so taper can work.
Then the saddle wheel is very stiff.

 

Last edited: Aug 4, 2016

I

iwananew10K

Diamond

Joined

Sep 12, 2010

Location

moscow,ohio

• Aug 4, 2016

• #2

If you set the taper attachment for zero taper and try cranking the carriage you can possibly narrow it down by loosening the TA gibs on at a time to isolate.
Probably gunk build up.

 

S

silver star

Aluminum

Joined

Sep 19, 2013

Location

OK USA

• Aug 4, 2016

• #3

I will try the 0 degree and no Gibs in the morning.
I hope it is gunk but it shouldn't be since I had it apart a year ago and haven't used it much.
Worse it may be something I did or didn't did that I should have did.

 

G

gadget73

Hot Rolled

Joined

Mar 8, 2016

• Aug 4, 2016

• #4

Interested in how this turns out. I need to re-pour the babbit in my taper clamp, but a quick test of the taper attachment indicates mine doesn't seem to move like I think it should. Its been all apart but its very stiff. Not sure if thats because of the missing bushing in the clamp allowing stuff to bind or if its a problem in the adjustments.

 

M

mTeryk

Hot Rolled

Joined

Jul 4, 2010

Location

corvallis,or

• Aug 4, 2016

• #5

gadget73 said:

Not sure if thats because of the missing bushing in the clamp allowing stuff to bind or if its a problem in the adjustments.

Click to expand...

I've been using mine without the Babbitt bushing for quite awhile and it works fine. Doubt that is it.

Teryk

 

B

Blob

Hot Rolled

Joined

Apr 7, 2007

Location

Scotts Valley, CA

• Aug 4, 2016

• #6

I had a similar problem with my taper attachment; turned out the taper attachment gibs were too tight. Also make sure they are well oiled.

 

S

silver star

Aluminum

Joined

Sep 19, 2013

Location

OK USA

• Aug 5, 2016

• #7

0 degrees, taper locked down. No Gibs, top or bottom on taper slide.
Saddle wheel very hard to turn left or right.
Saddle wheel free and easy when taper not clamped down.
So...? well I don't know.
I will disassemble and see what stories I see.

 

I

iwananew10K

Diamond

Joined

Sep 12, 2010

Location

moscow,ohio

• Aug 5, 2016

• #8

Is this a factory taper or one someone added? Is it doweled to the saddle?

 

S

silver star

Aluminum

Joined

Sep 19, 2013

Location

OK USA

• Aug 5, 2016

• #9

Factory.
Please forgive I don't understand "dowled to saddle".

 

I

iwananew10K

Diamond

Joined

Sep 12, 2010

Location

moscow,ohio

• Aug 5, 2016

• #10

Factory installed TAs have 2 bolts and 2 dowels that hold it on the rear of the saddle

 

S

silver star

Aluminum

Joined

Sep 19, 2013

Location

OK USA

• Aug 5, 2016

• #11

Okay, I remember now what you are talking about.
If my memory???? what ever that is worth, serves me then yes on the dowels and bolts.
I will confirm as I'm sure it will be coming off.
Right now, besides my project suddenly being put on hold is I have the unit level right where it sits and of course the TA is 6" off the wall.
This will teach me to angle the unit off the wall.

 

S

silver star

Aluminum

Joined

Sep 19, 2013

Location

OK USA

• Aug 5, 2016

• #12

IWANANEW10K may have been more right than I gave credit to, although I felt that was the best I could hope for.
Took the TA off. I thought every thing looked good.
After cleaning in solvent and blow drying I took a hard stone and started rubbing.
I rubbed the big flat open areas or stoning because that was easiest.
Well, when I got to the ways you could tell in the sound of the stone I was onto something. What I thought would be the smoothest surface I would run the stone across had an awful scratching noise. You can see the scratch marks from being scraped but there must be a collection of varnished like lube with fine metal set up in it.
I will get it clean and smooth but could I ask the wise another question.
What is the best gadget to get in the "V" of ways to smooth them op without altering the angle of the dangle?
Thanks,
Michael

 

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gadget73

Hot Rolled

Joined

Mar 8, 2016

• Aug 5, 2016

• #13

If its varnish and crud causing the problem, I'd probably stick to a plastic bristle brush or a rag to clean it rather than any sort of abrasive.

 

S

silver star

Aluminum

Joined

Sep 19, 2013

Location

OK USA

• Aug 6, 2016

• #14

Thanks, I'll back off a bit.

 

TDegenhart

Diamond

Joined

Mar 26, 2011

Location

Geneva Illinois USA

• Aug 6, 2016

• #15

I had this problem with my heavy 10. Turns out that after many year of use, the bed clamp no longer matched to movement of the carriage. Melted out the babbit, clamped the TA rod with washers to the bed clamp. All ok now.

Tom

 

G

gadget73

Hot Rolled

Joined

Mar 8, 2016

• Aug 6, 2016

• #16

So you've got just some washers on either end of the bed clamp to make it all go? I was worried about things moving around too much without the babbit in mine, but if it works without pouring a new bearing I'd be keen on that.

 

S

silver star

Aluminum

Joined

Sep 19, 2013

Location

OK USA

• Aug 26, 2016

• #17

Using my lathe last 3 days and remembered I never gave a report.
The stoning, cleaning of everything that moves on the taper attachment and good lube and tighter gibs than I would have though has it working very nice.
If I put it at the slowest feed I really have to watch it, seems it will stick, other than that it is happy.
Thanks all for input.