Yes. The through hole in the spindle compared to the OD of the spindle itself. The through hole is 7/8 and that was spec so it isn't oversized. It may be a spindle someone made because when I take the bushing off the spindle is grooved and marred so it must be a fairly soft spindle. The spindle does run pretty true though so if somebody made it as a replacement they did a decent job with concentricity.
It is actually a dead-easy turning job, especially if you have at least borrowed access to a much better lathe to do it on than the fossil under repair.
Challenge comes when you DO go to harden it, make it 'right' for whatever sort of bearings are to be fitted.
If you choose to do it on the lathe you have, plan to make TWO.
First one need not be hardened, won't even need 100% of the 'features', nose threads, through-bore, internal taper, and back-gears can all be left-off, for example.
Just put a 60-degree point right onto it, cross-drill for a pin to drive a dog, and work 'tween centers. HS end turns WITH the work, takes less stress than TS end.
It should be as accurate as you can make it bearing, end-play, ergo TIR-wise.
Use that one to make a much better one, even if it takes more than one go to have it good after cutting ALL the features, hardening, and selective grinding. You'll have to use a decent drillpress, then reconfigure the lathe as a half-assed boring machine, too, but that is also done 'tween centers. And damned slowly.
Worn bed, carriage, cross, TS - everything, really - make that a series of 'compensating' workarounds, but lots of folk have had to deal with that and done it well with 'patience' their best tool.
Other than as a confidence-builder, not really worth it, BTW.
Not for a very average mass-produced lathe.
Count up the operations and how you will have to deal with each, perhaps you'll see my point in not even starting down that road?
Better to just run what yah got, apply the time and effort towards earnings for a better machine altogether.