Results 21 to 33 of 33
04-21-2017, 09:59 AM #21
"I don't see why atlas is banned and sb is not."
Perhaps because Southbend was at one time a commercial duty lathe and to my knowledge Atlas never was.
04-21-2017, 10:34 AM #22
They were so ubiquitous as 'good enough' light lathes - fossils, practically, of War One era lathes - that successive legions and generations of legions of some truly capable and dedicated lathe-hands have patiently accomplished some rather astonishingly good - and clever - feats on them. More 'in spite of' the SB itself than because of it.
But there yah go. They ran what they had, adapted, compensated - created and still yet-today maintain, a very respectable reservoir of talent and ingenuity.
I am not Milacron. I cannot read his mind. I do not even play him on TV.
But if it was me? I'd welcome the South Bend community for a higher than average contribution of brains and skill, patience, inventiveness - and their long-running willingness to share it with others - SB users or not.
I'd not give two shits in a windstorm about the sub-optimal iron they execute it on.
Another thing helps, and helps a great deal.
MANY users of SB have at one time been professionals and adept at tooling and running serious lathes. They UNDERSTAND that they are dealing with a light lathe with many challenges. They appreciate the heavier lathes they do not have money, space, or power 'budget' to keep where they are now.
It isn't common for a seasoned SB hand to 'challenge' more costly and capable lathes. Rather, he might want one himself, and takes pride in doing the best he can with what he has until... or remembers back to when.. etc.
This attitude makes more friends than enemies, of course.
Now - by comparison - for reasons that a psychologist might better understand than a machinist - there seems to be no shortage of outright FOOLS that feel compelled to acquire some of the trashiest-ever of "Lathe Shaped Objects" - then try to pick a fight with owner/operators of every 'better' lathe on planet Earth that their personal POS is just as good - nay BETTER THAN - a 'real' lathe, be it the poor but honest value-for-money SB Nine... or a 400 HP roll turning monster capable of spewing serious chips, each one more massive than their entire toy.
Thank you, South-Benders for being pleasant folks to share with. Long may you prosper.
The arrogant "LSO" lot? Up the dark place with your LSO, please. And "crosswise".
Exception granted on the "pictures, or it didn't happen" rule.
We don't really want to know how it "worked IN", let alone how it "worked OUT"!
thomasutley liked this post
04-21-2017, 12:29 PM #23
Thanks everybody that actually contributed useful information to this thread. To those who didn't, I didn't ask if you thought it was a good idea to do so or if this lathe was worth doing it to or why I would want to do it to that lathe, your opinion doesn't mean anything to me and my reasoning to do so shouldn't matter to you. Thanks for all of the good ideas. I do have access to large machines in a machine shop that does abb robot integration so making it isn't really that difficult. Just wanted to see if anybody had any experience making one before.
04-21-2017, 01:56 PM #24
I think that a fine machine. Well worth fixing..Agree not a tough job at all.
Making new not that difficult.
But would think about a 1/4" tube wall thickness.
Still I did barrel work with not going through the tube but between the head end and a steady.
Last edited by michiganbuck; 04-21-2017 at 05:09 PM.
04-21-2017, 05:24 PM #25
The design of the A**** vs. the SB are glaring...the first is the ways. SBs have V ways and the A**** has flat.
What it really gets down to is the type of people that each attract, and SBs tend to attract a quite different crowd, where the A***** is typically home shop people. The A**** is limited on this site because of who they attract, plus the fact that you rarely find one in a production environment. It's really that simple.
If you don't like the SBs, no need to poo-poo them, because a lot of people do like them and they are certainly one of the most popular, if not THE most popular brand of lathe in the world, despite not being manufactured anymore...of course that is true for MOST lathes used in production environments, not a lot of good ones being manufactured these days, more focus on CNC...
04-21-2017, 05:54 PM #26
QR: [I don't see why a...s is banned and sb is not.]
I think it just Rules are Rules. Nothing wrong with the larger At...s Except soft flat ways would not last long in manufacturing... but even the very small SBs have been uses in many war time news reels and are a true manufacturing machine.
Likely the site owner does not want the site bogged down with the same question a thousand times from people not even taking the time to read How to Run a Lathe.
Sites like that don't last long.
Still you can bet some very nice work comes from soft flat way machines
04-22-2017, 05:05 PM #27
04-22-2017, 05:57 PM #28
Sure looks like the factory spindle to me. The small end of the spindle does not look that bad, but the picture makes it look like there are some protrusions into the bore, like someone already tried to drill it oversize from the small end, and screwed it up.
04-22-2017, 06:26 PM #29
04-22-2017, 07:10 PM #30
04-22-2017, 07:15 PM #31
Could have should have made a step counter bore to follow the original id through the tube…
Before screw up a 1 1/8 reamer ground to end cutting with a 7/8 pilot....but that heavy cut may be too much for the lathe..
Perhaps 1" " with a 7/8 pilot for a rougher... and 1" TO 1 1/8" follow up.. yes a slow rpm and fine in-feed with oil and perhaps re sharp at 110 to 12 primary.
I have made reamers with alternating angles so every other tooth cuts a portion.
Even a piloted boring bar off the tail stock...
But done is done and it is a mess to straighten out...a boring bar with a bushing at one end for a line bore the best choice,IMHO
Boring bar could come off tail stock.
Still say post 14 the best way to make good
04-22-2017, 07:39 PM #32
04-22-2017, 07:55 PM #33
If you bored it as far as you could from the front nose.. What do you think 6" or so? bore it to 1 1/8.. perhaps more depth just straight in from the front..
You can use the heaviest boring bar.. even put your steady on the boring bar for more support.. and come off the tail. and 10 12 " clearance for axial cutting
Then use that bore as a bushing.to go in in with a 1 1/8 reamer ground for end cutting..Or even better a 1 5/32 reamer OD ground to have a greater circle grind would cut like an end mill.. Yes reamer center on the tail.
Yes it will one-side way down the hole so go slow feed there.
Perhaps a 1 1/8 end mill.. turn down the shank for a drive extension that comes off tail center..might run in the steady for support.