Quick change gearbox nameplate mounting??

All,

This is going to sound like a very stupid question, but maybe someone else has run into it and has the answer.

I have a 1940 vintage 13" SB and it's almost completely back together. That is with the exception of the quick change gear box nameplate. The nameplate was originally installed with rivets which a previous owner removed by grinding off the heads. The delima is getting the body of the rivet out of the gear box casting. I thought that I would simply drill the body of the rivet out, but these are either the hardest rivets ever made or I have drilled through the rivet body and into the hardest gear box housing ever made. I've tried several new carbide bits, but they simply don't cut the material.

Anbody suggestinon? (I'm about ready to simply glue the nameplate onto the gear box casting, but I hate to think that a piece of 60 year old cast iron is going to get the best of me!!)

Chuck

The rivet isn't spinning in place is it?

Nameplate Rivets

I had the same problem- boy those are hard rivets! The only one's I got out I drove out from the back (where possible). I think I had one plate that was riveted into a thick section of casting with no through holes and I wound up grinding the rivet off with a dremel.
To reinstall them I tapped some holes for some #5-40 stainless steel, button head cap screws. They were just the right size to fit into the old rivet holes after I ran a tap through. I think I moved the one plate over a 1/4" so I could drill and tap new holes adjaecnt to the old one with the rivets in them. Since I painted the machine before installing the new plates, you can't see the old rivets or holes anyway.
If you want some of the screws, I think I have enough left to install 500 more plates.

Chris

Those drive rivets are hardened so they can cut into the base metal when you hammer them in. If you can't get to the back side to drive them out its easier to just move plate over a little and redrill the holes.

Recently, I ran into the problem of removing rivets from a 10L lathe. The lathe was being disasembled for cleaning and repainting. Some of the rivets removed easily, just drive them from behind. The rivets mounted in blind holes were a little more difficult, or so I thought. All you need is a 1/4-inch cold chisel, very small ballpeen hammer and an old tack remover. Both the chisel and tack remover need to be sharp. First use the chisel and tap very lightly around the head (tap only, we are not looking to cut the rivet) you will quickly note that the rivet will start to move, now use the tack remover placing the sharp edge under the head. You will find that the rivet seems to want to come out by itself. I was able to remove 8 rivets in less then ten minutes with absolutly no damage to the plates. I am also able to reuse the rivets.
Hope this helps someone.

Paul

Unfortunately I can't get to the back side to drive them out and the rivets don't seem to be spinning, sooooooo.

I think that I will try Oldmachinest's and ChrisK's approach and simply move the plate over slightly and drill new attachment holes. Other than the obvious center punching, are there any good tricks to get the drill to bit into the virgin cast iron of the quick change gear box without wandering all over it's face. The new holes don't need to be perfect, but they still need to align with the nameplate holes.

Thanks to all.
Chuck