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South bend Heavy 10 spindle bearing question

kovacjr

Plastic
Joined
Feb 13, 2007
Location
Lakewood NJ
OK, so researching my initial issue, oil slinging from the front bearing I came up with most likely a clogged return passage. So armed with the 4 page sheet on removal and assembly and my new felt pack I opened her up. Found that there was a bunch of gunk and chips from the previous owner in the groove. See the photo for the port.

I cleaned it all up, installed new capillary wicks and wipers and put beck together with the shims in the same spot and I get a tight spindle. If I tighten the screws on the spreader to open the bearing more then snug I get a looser bearing BUT its still runs hotter then it should. Also I then get .0002" of movement on the spindle. How is that?

First question is I have the indicator mounted to a mag base and on the ways, will there be movement from the headstock on bed that is also being measured? The bearings and spindle are in real good shape, I did not remove the gears to slide the bearings off but can see from the slot and I rotated the bearing to inspect the whole diameter from the slot. I know it was always running warm before, I think from the clogged port as I was always having to refill the pot as it was running out, but its hotter then before and when it stops it comes to a quicker stop than before as its tighter and it hard to spin by hand. I tried backing off the take up nut more up to a half turn making just to made sure ots not an issue. I also shimmed the front bearing with a .001 shim and it was better but I don't get why I'd need to shim it if nothing was changed but the felt and cleaned the port. There is no grit or grime in the bearing seat and the bearing is smooth on the spindle.

I install the caps then the cap bolts, always making sure the spreader it aligned in the slot of the cap. Install the washer and screws loosely then tighten the cap down then snug the screws. I can adjust the screws tighter to loosen the spindle but I don't think its right as its getting opened more than it was before.

Anyone have any ideas what could be happening. I also have the roller bearing on the inside of the rear cap, is there a god replacement for that? I know when I take a heavy cut they whine pretty good. The thrust bearing is the fiber one and in good shape, but I do have a new iolite bronze one but did not pull off and press on the gear


20161013_193429.jpg
 
kovacjr said:
I can adjust the screws tighter to loosen the spindle but I don't think its right as its getting opened more than it was before.

The spreaders need to be fully snug, as in fully seated in the caps. You do not adjust the bearings with the spreaders, you adjust the bearings with shims so that they have appropriate play when the caps and spreaders are fully snug.

Teryk
 
You are probably not setting these bearings up correctly.

1) clean everything.
2) be sure the oiler felts are pushed down when the
spindle is installed.
3) tighten the bearing caps snug with the original shims in them in the
original places.
4) tighten the four expander screws snug.
5) be sure you have oil in the reservoirs.
6) remove all tooling from the spindle
7) slack the thrust bearing
8) place the point of a tenths reading indicator on the spindle nose,
right as it emerges from the headstock.
9) stick a broom stick in the spindle nose, and push down hard. Zero the indicator.
10) pull up on the broomstick hard, read the TIR on the gage. The broomstick force is to overcome the oil film.

Number should be around 0.0007 inch. 0.0012 is not out of line to start, below 0.0005 you'll get heating at higher speeds.

Repeat for the rear journal.

DO NOT REMOVE THE BEARING CAPS WITHOUT REMOVING THE EXPANDER SCREWS FIRST.

But you probably already know that. The xpanders stay with the bearing when the cap comes off.
 
When I indicated mine, I screwed the post from the mag base into a threaded hole that sat above the back gear bearing and mounted the indicator off that. No idea what that hole is supposed to be for, but since there is one at each end it works fine for spindle measurements. No worries about the headstock moving relative to the ways, or trying to find a flat spot to stick things to in the back.

I'm using a transmission bearing on the back side for mine, and the original ball thrust bearing on the inside. My washer was steel, and it was shredded.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...de-thrust-washer-question-320511/#post2771291

Its been in use for several months without any trouble. Just center it up with the takeup nut during assembly. I adjusted it until the spindle just barely started to drag, then backed the takeup nut off about 1/8 turn. The rear gear ends up pushed out just a little bit, but it still has plenty of engagement on the reversing lever assembly. Not sure how much oil it gets out of the spindle bearings, so I just give it a couple drops of spindle oil when lubing the machine.
 
So tore it down again, cleaned the spindle fully this time put it back together again and had the same issue. .0002 or so. Barely moves with force. So I started to remove things that changed. First the wipers from the expander, reassembled and hmm it was perfect. So looking as the felt and the expander, there was so much force to compress the wiper now vs the original it was putting excessive force on the spindle. So I filed the V as the manual said to just under 3/32 as I was going by feel of pressure of the wiper fit. Tightened everything down and checked again, .0012 so its staying there. I did not swap the new thrust bearing as I did not press off the gear.

Being the thrust bearing was in fine shape as was the face of the bearing surface I left it for now. I will revisit when I get the new ball bearing for the inner race.

thanks for all your help.
 
Good deal.

Went and actually looked at my headstock, the holes I used for the indicator post are what the spindle cover screws to. Didn't have the cover on while checking the spindle bearings, and honestly I'd forgotten what they actually did until I went and looked again.
 








 
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