SB 13 Spindle Lubricaton On This Old Lathe

T

Torquin

Aluminum

Joined

Nov 17, 2014

Location

Powhatan, Va.

• Mar 11, 2015

• #1

I have been pouring over the information here and other places, and PDF documents from many years, as I can find them, regarding lubrication of my SB 13. My problem is my lathe does not have the spindle lube cups on the side like every document/picture seems to depict and discuss. My oil cups are on the top of the bearing caps. I am thinking I need new felts because the spindle oil goes down quickly and leaks out the sides but cannot find any info about what I need to get and the procedure for installation. I am trying to avoid removing the bearing caps unless I have to, as I have read this is not recommended if you don't know the procedure and it is not absolutely necessary.



Thanks,
Chris

 

P

puller1

Plastic

Joined

Jan 23, 2013

Location

nebraska

• Mar 11, 2015

• #2

I have a 1941 16" southbend and it has oil drippers where your cups are at. I think someone took them off your machine and put the cups there and mine does not have wicks. Check out on you tube str ironman/1941 southbend lathe

 

D

Dobermann

Hot Rolled

Joined

Jan 2, 2014

Location

North Carolina

• Mar 11, 2015

• #3

Those Gitts oil cups on the top of the bearing caps were more or less standard fare for those early lathes. Some people call them "total loss" oil systems since what you put in runs out of the bearings and drools down the headstock. Sometimes there were little felt wicks in a relief cut between the two bearing caps. You could take one of yours off and see what's in there. My dad put a wad of felt down into the oil cup to slow down the flow of oil but there really isn't much of good solution beyond what you have. I have two older lathes with those top oilers and except for the mess, the bearings do just fine. You just have to remember to add oil daily or twice a day.

 

P

packardbill

Cast Iron

Joined

Oct 10, 2012

Location

central Pa., U.S.A.

• Mar 11, 2015

• #4

That style of headstock should have "drip" oilers in the bearing caps. You can control how much lubricant drips through them by means of a valve built into the oiler. With the "Gits" oilers like you have, the oil runs through....not a controlled drip. I think...think, the drip oilers are available from McMaster-Carr. On another note
your style of headstock does not have the bearing expanders under the caps, which must be loosened first, before removing the caps on the newer headstocks. Hope this helps. PB

 

T

Torquin

Aluminum

Joined

Nov 17, 2014

Location

Powhatan, Va.

• Mar 12, 2015

• #5

Packardbill, that makes more sense. I realize they are all total loss designs, but I wouldn't think all of the oil should just run through it immediately. I'm gonna try to hunt down the controlled drip oilers.

Thanks,
Chris

 

T

The Black Flash

Aluminum

Joined

Apr 30, 2009

Location

England

• Mar 12, 2015

• #6

Exactly the same as mine, I've recently fitted new drip oilers. The holes in my bearing caps were tapped to 1/4bsp, I used small adaptors to convert to 1/8bsp as most oilers I could find seemed to be that size. Mine has no felts in at all.

 

packrat2

Hot Rolled

Joined

Mar 10, 2010

Location

Utah

• Mar 12, 2015

• #7

drip oilers will usually have pipe threads, 1/8"pipe, 1/4"pipe, 3/8"pipe, big ones will have 1/2" pipe thread.
if you can't find some, I have two small ones here somewhere.

 

MetalCarnage

Stainless

Joined

Apr 24, 2011

Location

Nebraska

• Mar 12, 2015

• #8

I've got the same oilers on my '39 11" SB. Right now a cap full of oil runs out in about a minute and a half but I think once I have a chance to make some new shims and set the caps/play properly that will not be as big of an issue. I am planning to retro-fit it with some drip oilers when I can scrape the time together - have too many things on my "to do" list atm.

The bearings are a very simple design so don't worry about pulling the caps.

-Ron

 

T

Torquin

Aluminum

Joined

Nov 17, 2014

Location

Powhatan, Va.

• Mar 13, 2015

• #9

I popped one of my cups out this evening to figure out the thread and it's something I have never seen before. I measured it at .305" - 32. I started at 27 with my thread gauge, as that's what 1/8" npt is, and 32 was the first one that went into the threads. When I searched I found a BSPT page at BSP (British Standard Pipe) Thread Data BSP and BSPT taps, which does give a matching diameter, 1/16", at .304", but says 1/16" BSPT is a 28 tpi.
What am I missing?

Thanks,
Chris

 

MetalCarnage

Stainless

Joined

Apr 24, 2011

Location

Nebraska

• Mar 15, 2015

• #10

I'd have to go back and re-measure mine, though it wouldn't necessarily be the same as yours, but I remember is to be some really odd thread/size so I'm not surprised with your results. I bought a couple of oilers knowing that I would have to customize them to fit - one of the reasons that it's taken me so long to get to it.

If I get a chance I'll check the threads on mine and post it later.

-Ron

Update: Threads are 32 tpi and I got .305" OD measured at the half way point on the threads as well so should be call it a 39/128" ???

-Ron

 

Last edited: Mar 15, 2015

T

Torquin

Aluminum

Joined

Nov 17, 2014

Location

Powhatan, Va.

• Mar 15, 2015

• #11

Starting to think it will be easier to drill and tap my bearing caps to a more standard thread.

Thanks,
Chris