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  1. #1
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    Arrow South Bend Loaner Tools

    Hi Folks,

    Often when working on a machine tool, one needs to make special-purpose tools for assembly/disassembly, alignment, repair, etc. Just as often these tools are for one-time use, or else used very seldom. Forum-member 'jeagan' has observed that such tools are of little benefit just sitting around in our toolboxes, when there are other SB owners who could use them. His idea was that we could use this thread to:

    1) Let others know what special tools we have that we would be willing to lend/give out to others, perhaps for the cost of shipping, or...

    2) Let others know what special tools we might need for a South Bend restoration/repair project, that someone else might have already available.

    For example, forum-member 'gunsmither' learned that I am presently machining one of the MLA T-slotted cross slides for my lathe. He has already machined one of these for his 10L, and offered to send me the set of spreader clamps that he made for to hold the gib for easy machining:



    As soon as I finish my cross slide, I will have no more use for the clamps, and would be happy to send them to anyone else that can use them.

    You get the idea...

    Paula

  2. #2
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    Default Great Idea

    I like your idea. I myself need to rework my crossfeed nut 1/2-10 left hand. I looked at the price of the tap and wondered how many people out there bought one only to use it once. I don't know how good this would work out. to many different skill levels of people here. Also it only takes one jerk to keep a borrowed tool or abuse it.
    let's get some ideas going here.

    Clay

  3. #3
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    Default

    I agree with Clay - it only takes one jerk to screw up a good idea like this. Having said that, I loaned a MT2 reamer to the aforementioned jeagan, and he promptly returned it undamaged, so my experience has been good.

    I guess each person would have to decide whether the one asking for a loan was trustworthy or not, but it would be difficult to be sure without actually knowing the person.

    On the other hand, if you had no further use for the tool, or for some reason didn't want it cluttering up your toolbox any more, you wouldn't have to worry about it. Personally, I like to keep ALL my tools, whether I use them or not! :-)

    Maybe someone with more brains than me can come up with something relatively foolproof.

    Blob

  4. #4
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    Default

    I tend to be cautious, so I would not want to send a tool out unless I could see no further need for it, and/or it was only of nominal value. An exception might be made, depending on who the individual was. I will say that all of my off-list interactions with other South Bend forum members have been positive.

    A good example of how this thread could be useful: A few years ago a forum member purchased a new Texalon belt from LeBlond, and also the cement kit for splicing it. Apparently, the cement kit has WAY more material than any one user could use, and this person offered to send the remainder to anyone else that might need to splice a belt. Unfortunately, the post offering this favor soon drifted down the list, along with the liklihood that any person who could use the leftover adhesive might see the post.

    Are there risks? Sure. If you need the tool (or whatever) returned to you, there are always those individuals who can't seem "get around to" returning anything, or who can't use a tool without damaging it, etc. It's definitely a case of "lender beware". Take it for what it is.

    Paula
    Last edited by Paula; 03-07-2009 at 01:25 PM. Reason: left out some words

  5. #5
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    Default

    Paula;

    With all due respect, I still believe that most all people are honest.

    When I had my previous business I bucked heads with my bank and decided to no longer accept merchant credit cards. I was then faced with a situation where my clients and prospective clients needed items ASAP and couldn't wait for a check to arrive prior to shipping items. We sold water pumping windmills and if the cows need water, they need it now. This may sound old fashioned, but I would make the people promise to pay me and guess what? I was never beat out save and except one deal. Found out later this guy was a professional scum bag and would have beat me somehow, anyway. This went on for a number of years. I would ship orders to around $1000.00 to stranger on a phone gaurantee. Something the banks would never do, but they are all broke now!

    Possibly make the potential borrower call on the phone. You can get quite a feel from someone by the conversation. It is probably harder to lie over the phone than behind a keyboard.

    Or if you did it only on line, possibly the borrower would need a reference from another member. Kind of like a co-signer for the new pickup dealdown at the Chevy garage. Chances of having one member be deceptive to cover for another would be quite slim?

    Hoping my ideas are not too crazy!

    Craig Donges

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  7. #6
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    Default

    This is not much different than when you buy something from a member of this fourm.I have bought items from members here that I don't know and have not even talked to on the phone and it never crossed my mind that they would not hold up there end of the deal.I think most people are honest
    when it comes to something like this. I like the thought of helping someone
    out with something I may never use again or something I dont need.
    Jim

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  9. #7
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    Default Loaner Tools

    Hi Everybody,

    I would like to share the special tools that I made during the restoration of my SB 10k because I will probably never need them again. Seems silly to let the stuff sit in the shop unused for my kids to throw in the trash after I am gone. Better they should survive on this forum for others to use and learn from.

    Another great benefit of this sticky thread is to help others learn. Ususally, when a special tool is required to do something, a noobie might not even imagine a special tool. This thread will help all of us. Just yesterday, somebody asked how to get those pesky rack screws out which is a subject that I know has been discussed here in the past. I ground a bit for this purpose that I will post next.

    As far a the issue of trusting people goes, come on. If somebody on this forum really wants to steal these tools, think about all the fun we can have blasting them. I can't imagine it being a problem of you look at the number of posts someone has and share a PM or two with them first.

    I hope other forum members will post up the special tools/fixtures that you have made so that others can benefit from them. Indicate whether you want the tool returned or kept and made availabe for the next person who needs it like the gib clamps that Paula has. If you need a tool, look here to borrow one... or for ideas on how to make it or use it.

    This thread does not need to be limited to special or custom made tools and fixtures. Examples of other tools that would be appropriate here are: taps for the compound and cross feed screws nuts, taper pin reamers, #2 MT reamer to clean up the tailstock quill, etc.

    Here is the tool I made to pull the spindle out of my 10k. I just could not bring myself to beat the spindle out with a BFH and a block of wood. The puller worked awesome; it was controlled; the spindle did not go flying into the tailstock and nothing was damaged at all.





    Since the 10k does not have removeable bearing caps, one must remove the spindle axially. The bull gear is pressed onto the spindle and uses a key. I left the expander screws snug to make sure the expanders did not catch the bull gear key on the way out.

    Re-assembly of the spindle into the headstock was just the reverse of dissassembly except for having to hold the capilary oilers down. It wouldn't hurt to have a helper because its tricky to hold everything in place by yourself; but not impossible. Be sure to install the new serpentine belt before pressing the spindle home. I also did the INA needle thrust bearing assembly upgrade on the outside of the left side of the headstock. Awesome for $6.00 worth of parts.

    Next, I will post the special bit I made for the impact driver to get the rack screws out. And a screwdriver for removing the crank nuts on the compound and cross slide. I also made a fixture for drillling a new saddle worm for the "screw upgrade to hold the key" that somebody here posted. I want to find that post again so I can give proper credit when I post the fixture.

    Sincerely,
    John.

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  11. #8
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    Default floor tile!

    If any1 wants this wooden contraption it's yours.......

    It locates the lower drive units main shaft parallel to the base of 11" for re-babbiting in the bushings - amazingly enough it actually worked. I'm guessing there's about a 0.01% chance this device would ever needed to be used again by anyone in this world. Therefore in a couple of weeks it will be donated to some other world - far, far beyond ours................
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails img_0117.jpg   img_0119.jpg  

  12. #9
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    Default

    Your Re-babbitting jig MAY also work on a 10L or 13 inch south bend. I think if someone needed to re-babbitt one it would be worth checking. If it it did not fit at lease your jig would give them an idea on how to make one that would fit. Gary P. Hansen

  13. #10
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    Default Custom bit for Impact Driver to remove Rack Screws

    Hi,

    During the restoration of my SB 10k lathe, I wanted to remove the longitudinal rack from the underside of the bed to facilitate a complete cleaning, inspection and re-painting of the bed and rack. I had read on this forum and on other furums several posts that suggested not to remove the rack for fear of bugering up the heads of the screws holding the rack while trying to remove them. This was just the challenge I needed...

    I believe that if it went together, it can be successfully diss-assembled.

    So, I milled and ground a bit to perfetly fit the slotted head screws holding the rack to the bed. I used the bit in a manual impact driver to loosen the screws. One smack with a big hammer lossened the screws with zero damage to the screw heads. Following are a few pictures of the bit. Since my bit was hardened, I had to mill the thickness and width with a carbide endmill and then grind the convex radius to precisely fit the slot in the screw head. The carbide cut left a lovely textured surface to help grip the slot.






    The key to success was taking the time to mill and grind the bit to perfectly fit the slot in the original SB screw.

    Would be happy to loan the bit...

    Sincerely,
    John.

  14. #11
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    Default SB 13" Tap

    I'll put one out there.I have a 1 7/8"-8tpi tap for a chuck mounting plate,or face plate for a 13"SB.It may also work for others,it's my understanding that it's kind of an oddball.

  15. #12
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    Default

    We have an unused set of 7/16-10 left hand Acme taps, available for loan to a worthy borrower. These have been generously donated by forum-member Wally M, in the hope that they might prove useful to someone on the South Bend forum. According to Wally, these taps have been ground for aluminum bronze, but should work fine with the more common bronze alloys, such as might be used to make cross feed nuts (E.G., 660).

    Here is a picture:



    The printing on the upper tap reads:

    NORTH AMERICAN
    7/16-10 NA-2G
    HSG ACME L/H
    ROUGHER USA
    8Z20 ALUM BRZ
    CA 954


    ...and the lower:

    NORTH AMERICAN
    7/16-10 NA-2G
    HSG ACME L/H
    FINISHER USA
    8Z20 ALUM BRZ
    CA 954


    This item will be made available to established South Bend forum members only, with a current project in mind. Your only cost would be for postage both ways. Contact me if interested.

    Also, anyone with more detailed knowledge about these particular taps is encouraged to post any information you can offer.

    Paula

  16. #13
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    Default F1 Felt

    Hi Everybody,

    I have some F1 felt left over from my restoration and will be happy to share it with others. It is 1/8" thick x 1/2" wide white F1 that is perfect for cutting into wicks for the shafts in the QCGB and reverse gear. I also have some 1/8" diameter white F1 rope for use in the holes in the QCGB, the reverse gear and on some counter shaft bearing journal oiling systems.

    PM me with your needs.

    John.

  17. #14
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    Default

    Hi John, PM sent.
    Last edited by Paula; 03-24-2009 at 10:52 PM.

  18. #15
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    Default

    Hi John,
    Just What I Was About to perchase from McMasters Im rebuilding Heavy ten.Please give me a call me at 6048263950 or e-mail bclpap@shaw.ca

  19. #16
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    Default

    John, if you run out I have enough to re-wick about two dozen 10K's. 1/16", 1/8", and some heavy stuff for way wipers. No extra cord though.

    It takes so little yet it must be purchased in such large quantities!

    Pete

  20. #17
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    Red face

    does anyone have a good MT3 reamer, i need to touch up the tail stock quill on my SB13. i guess i'm cheep and don't want to spend a hundred bucks on a tool that i will use for five minutes.

  21. #18
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    Default

    PM on the way.

    L&I.

    Wally.

  22. #19
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    Default

    I am reworking the headstock of my 10" heavy lathe. The previous rebuilder apparently did not have access to a manual as the bearing spreaders were on top of the brass bearings and not in the grooves.

    The capillary oiler is missing from the front bearing. Would anyone have any felt left over from a project that I could purchase? Its about 1/2" dia x 2" long.

    I also would be interested in the felt cord that is in the carriage. Call me at 252/363.4232 or e-mail tomstallings@coastalnet.com
    Also looking a 7/16" tool post wrench and tailstock wrench

  23. #20
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    Default Belt glue VIB and VAS 3 Cements for SB belts

    This came from frobo and /or extremultus from a belt kit I bought from South Bend. I Just opened it tonight and changed my belts. The rest is yours... Just send me your address....it expires this month, but maybe a few of you can get some use from it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails glue.jpg  


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