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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by comstockfriend View Post
    Hope you are oiling it now, not greasing.

    John
    After all the work to get the old grease cleaned out, you betcha. Someday I'll add a one shot system to it, but for now I've kit bashed an oil can with a snap fitting for the zerk fittings.

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  3. #42
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    Late to the party.

    I really like mine, and there are a bunch of posts in the past about making parts and tooling.

    The hydraulic up/down feed is a hoot. Kind of rube goldberg, but very well thought out for performance.
    Instant rapids both direction, and infinitely variable feed both ways as well. Mine did not come with the factory hydraulic power pack. I modified a power steering unit from the junk yard to drive it. Had to put a slug in the pressure relief to get the pressure down low enough. (The key on the sensitive feed was sheared when my mill was received). The quill stop merely assumes the hydraulic pressure is low enough that when the quill hits the stop, it will stall and not shear anything.

    You mentioned that the sensitive feed on yours spun free. This could be either (we hope) that the clutch is not engaged. Perhaps due to the funky spring over the lever feed in that area. But worst case, it could be a sheared key on the crossways quill feed gear/shaft

    I'd trade my table feed for a Servo. The gear drive table has some advantages. But it does not have rapid for return. Practically, it is faster to(manually)crank it back to the start, then engage the feed again.

    I didn't get a full set of collets, but don't much like the SB Z style anyway. I got 30T shank ER40 and a 30 taper shank ER32 collet chucks and tooled them up with a basic set of collets. The ER40 of course will take larger shanks. The 32 is much shorter overhang, and takes up to 5/8" shank tooling. Plus the significanly smaller OD helps fit in some set ups better.

    The pin lock for the spindle is very useful for changing collets in either the factory collet chuck, or add-on collet chucks. The brake won't hold tight enough for that. In fact, I'm not sure the brake does much of anything useful (mine is fully functional, just not exquisitely effective. )

    Is your the high speed 1 HP motor, or the slow speed 3/4HP motor?

    Either is more effective than many might think. But I sometimes use larger tools. The mill handles them better than a BP will, especially large face mills. The slow speed is my preference, though have a high speed on the shelf.

    This is a 4-3/4" face mill made on my SB mill.





    The great thing about NMTB tapers is that large OD tooling can be bolted right on the end of the spindle. No wimpy R8 interface. Finished tool + centering plug





    Before acquiring a planer, I used to mill the straight edge castings on the SB before taking them in for heat treat. (see dolly of castings on floor to left of mill)





    Where are you in PA?

    smt

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  5. #43
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    Stephen, thanks for the post and info! I've bookmarked a bunch of your threads to come back and read.. as I'm always trying to learn more about these machines and machining in general.
    The hydraulic feed unit is leaky, from everywhere so at some point I'll pull it apart to reseal. I have a fair amount of experience w hydraulic valves so I expect it to be fairly straight forward. The fine quill feed was not engaged, as you suspected the knob on the side has to be wound all of the way in to pull the gears into engagement. I still have to find a hand wheel the right size that I can machine to fit, or something. It has the 3/4hp motor, which actually surprises me for it's grunt. I've a little time running a Bridgeport and Cincinnati toolmaster, and the southbound does not feel like a big step down. I do like your collet adapter, and if I need to go over 3/4" I mat follow that direction. Just getting familiar with all of the tooling size nomenclature is confusing for sure though.. I see you made that face mill so that it bolts to the spindle, and it has the 30 taper arbor. Why both? I was u under the impression that a directly mounted cutter didn't need an arbor but maybe I am wrong? Thanks again, SD

  6. #44
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    Stephen, your PMs are full!
    Question for you, or anyone else who might know: I am curious if the bolt pattern and key for the direct mount is called by any size? I'd very much like to find all the tooling I can, and knowing what bolts up directly will be a help. Thanks!

    by the way, I'm right in center city Philadelphia

  7. #45
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    There are 4 bolts. The bolt circle on a NMTB 30 taper has a radius of 1.0625" (2.125 diameter). The bolt holes are 45° each side of centerline of the keys. The face of the keys is essentially .660" to .654" from center of the taper bore, and practically on center with the bolt holes. (IOW use the radius dimension, and just space the bolt holes so the keys are centered between opposing pairs. The bolt holes are threaded 3/8 - 16.

    I see you made that face mill so that it bolts to the spindle, and it has the 30 taper arbor. Why both? I was u under the impression that a directly mounted cutter didn't need an arbor but maybe I am wrong?
    There is a slightly loose tolerance on location of the bolt holes for NMTB30 (think it is "within .006" of true position, or something like that. IOW, there could be .012" difference between any 2 holes, more or less. All bolt holes have a clearance. Bolts are designed to put tension between 2 connecting parts. They do not offer any accurate locating features.

    So, the taper is cleaned and the centering plug installed and retained by the normal SB ss retention system ("30MM"). The tool, which has only a few .0001's difference in diameter is slid on over top the plug, centering it. The tool is rotated to line up the bolt holes, and bolted on. The plug centers the tool, the bolts hold it flat to the face, the keys drive the tool.

    Hardened 30 taper shanks can be easily milled for pockets with a 3/8" or 1/2" carbide end mill. Tilt of centerline of the tool is 45°





    There are other ways to hold the tool, depending on what type dividing head or tilting index you use. My DH's have 5c internal collet capacity. So I taper bored a 5c E collet to the 30 taper shank spec just enough to grip the straight tail, and some of the shank for locating and centering it. I also use a draw bolt (1/2-13)to keep the tool from squirting out. A solid socket would have worked as well, it there had been one on hand.



    There's a lot of PA right below me. I wondered if you were local enough to stop in and check my mill if you have more Q's. Philly is a bit of a hike.

    I don't use PM's. Box fills up too fast, i forget to check, and then messages never get through or people get upset because I don't respond. e h m c o f a b at g mail dot com.

    smt
    Last edited by stephen thomas; 12-02-2017 at 12:25 AM.

  8. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by stephen thomas View Post
    There are 4 bolts. The bolt circle on a NMTB taper has a radius of 1.0625" (2.125 diameter). The bolt holes are 45° each side of centerline of the keys. The face of the keys is essentially .660" to .654" from center of the taper bore, and practically on center with the bolt holes. (IOW use the radius dimension, and just space the bolt holes so the keys are centered between opposing pairs. The bolt holes are threaded 3/8 - 16.



    The there is a slightly loose tolerance on location of the bolt holes for NMTB30 (think it is "within .006" of true position, or something like that. IOW, there could be .012 difference between any 2 holes, more or less. All bolt holes have a clearance. Bolts are designed to put tension between 2 connecting parts. They do not offer any accurate locating features.

    So, the taper is cleaned and the centering plug installed and retained by the normal SB ss retention system ("30MM"). The tool, which has only a few .0001's difference in diameter is slid on over top the plug, centering it. The tool is rotated to line up the bolt holes, and bolted on. The plug centers the tool, the bolts hold it flat to the face, the keys drive the tool.

    Hardened 30 taper shanks can be easily milled for pockets with a 3/8" or 1/2" carbide end mill. Tilt of centerline of the tool is 45°
    Stephen, thanks this answers many questions. I have devised a jig for machining the pockets on the 30 taper arbor, though it's not as elegant as yours. It gets the job done though. I made a set of special jaws for a tilting milling vice, they have tabes to engage the arbor drive slots, and a relief for the end mill to fit through. Make the pocket on one side, flip the arbor, and do the other. Sort of fitting that the first job the machine had was making a tool to make it's own tooling..
    For the face mounted cutters, I have some extra 30NMTB to Jacobs arbors, and I am guessing they could be turned down to center whatever gets bolted on. Thanks for the explanation.
    SD

  9. #47
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    Your fixture actually sounds more elegant, in the sense that it minimizes set up time; and works simply and solidly.

    One modification or addition to any smooth plugs: I turned a slot around the perimeter to pull it (to wedge it out with a thick screwdriver). Another method is to drill and tap the end for a bolt and washer to jack it out with a short section of squared off bushing or pipe sleeve against the spindle face.

    smt

  10. #48
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    There were some off-list Q's about the face mill.
    Based on (good) information received here on PM at the time, I built it around APKT inserts, and really like them. Actual cutting diameter is about 4-1/4" diameter at the tips of the inserts.



    Since acquiring a planer about 8 years ago, I don't use it much anymore, but often enough. It is really useful for squaring the sides or ends of castings and fabbed assemblies that aren't easy to fixture on the planer, or that won't fit between the columns. I use it for very close squaring on the ends of larger parts, as well. Especially when it is going to be necessary to set up the RA head for drilling/boring/tapping anyway.

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    smt


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