South Bend - Need to have motor rewound
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  1. #1
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    Default South Bend - Need to have motor rewound

    Not sure if this is the correct forum site, but I have a early South Bend 9" junior with the silent chain drive. The motor will start up, but after 2 or 3 minutes it just begins to slow down then stop. I want to keep it original, so I am going to have the original motor checked, repaired and if needed, rewound. The local motor shops just want to sell new motors, not repair anymore. I am in the central valley of California, does anyone know of any shops in CA the will do this work?

    Thanks in advance.

    J Gross
    Auberry, CA

  2. #2
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    Need pics so members can see the type of motor.

    I will say when I had the same issue it turned out to be just really dirty inside and once cleaned was fine.

  3. #3
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    Any decent motor shop can rewind a motor, but you will likely pay more than the entire machine is worth. I'd guess $500 to $750.

  4. #4
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    Take it down to electric motor shop down town fresno.

    They also have a junk yard over by van ness and goldenstate.

    May have a period replacement.

    It could be the starter switch stuck and easy repair or just dirty.



    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    Runs for awhile, then stops? Have you tried oiling the bearings just a touch? I'd take it apart and clean it first. If it really needs a rewind, I'd instead stick a smaller, modern motor inside the older, larger housing.

    allan

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    Rewinding that motor should be your absolute last resort. I predict it would be cheaper to buy yourself a different lathe that to rewind that thing. There are some good suggestions here of steps to take to make sure it's not something simple that's wrong. You could even buy a great big cast iron frame 3 phase motor AND the VFD to run it for a lot less than rewinding an old motor.

  7. #7
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    Lube it, and make sure the start switch kicks out when it comes up to speed. The oil turns to glue and dirt will pack up in the switch and make it stick. The start windings will overheat if the switch doesn't drop them out.

    If this is a dual cap motor, one will be start and the other is a run cap. Both need to be good. There isn't all that much to an electric motor. if it spins the windings are probably OK.

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    As old as that machine is, the motor could very well be a wound rotor motor, as in repulsion start, induction run or even repulsion start repulsion run. Those have very complicated starting switches and in the worst case, the correction operation of the motor depends upon the correct placement of the cage which holds the brushes. It can be rotated around the axis of the motor and that's how the direction of rotation is changed. If you have a motor like that, it's very possible that the brush cage is in the wrong place and just needs to be corrected. Look for a motor shop with some really old guys in it. That system has not been used much since WWII so that gives you some idea of the age of the expert you're looking for!

  9. #9
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    Here's the deal. I have a 1/2 HP 3 Phase motor that came off a SB Junior. Westinghouse Ser# 180032-D 66 Frame 3/4 shaft 208/220-440 volts. Pay the shipping and it is yours. I will have to weigh it tomorrow to give you a better idea of how much shipping would cost. VFDs are relatively inexpensive. A lot cheaper than a rewind. Here is a picture.



    .100_0757.jpg

  10. #10
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    Out of curiosity, does the motor behave the same way without engaging the drive belt? I could see similar behavior resulting from headstock bearings that are too tight. Spindle heats up, bearings get tight, motor bogs down.

    Just thinking out loud. Hopefully it's something simple to fix.

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  12. #11
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    I weighed the motor and it weighs 37 lbs. With it boxed up safely, shipping weight would be about 45 lbs give or take 2 or 3.

  13. #12
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    keep in mind if original the SCD motors were 1200rpm


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