Southbend 10" Compound Rest removal

Hi all,

I just received a Bostar AXA QCTP and want to adapt to work in place of the Lantern style tool post.

I have a friend who's willing to mill the T nut from the blank that's included in the package.

If possible I'd like to give him the compound rest to insure as good a fit as possible.

While it seems to be relatively straight forward I was hoping for some advice before trying to remove the last two screws/pins (?)

Attached are two pics showing the last two fasteners I can see....are these what I need to remove before the rest will come off? It seems to be pretty lose after removing the rest of the screws.

Any help is appreciated.

You can pull the two compound swivel screws and lift the entire compound slide assembly off of the cross slide. Much easier to disassemble/reassemble, and lower chance of damaging he sliding ways during handling.

What he said. Pull the lock screws and lift the compound right off the cross slide. No teardown needed. If you do want to take it apart, its much easier to do with the compound sitting on the bench in front of you.

Thank you gentlemen. I'm now looking for a diagram to identify the lock screws :-)

Draw out the size of the T-slat for your friend, milling a T-nut from a drawing should give you a good fit.
No need to remove compound.

Having put QCTP's on several lathes that used the old style tool posts, I would remove the top slide of the compound and grind the top flat.
If the lathe has had any use at all, the top will have a hollow area worn into it that will result in unreliable clamping.

Bill

For the OP's questions, just pull the handle off the lead screw.

The hole in the first pix is a spanner hole to unscrew the bearing from the casting.

The lock screws are a pair of allen head set screws in the top part of the cross slide. They angle towards the two rear corners of the ways. Have a look on each side of the compound, you'll find them. You'll use these to set the compound angle for threading or taper turning or whatever else you might want to swing the compound around for.

Here's a good shot of one of them. The other one is on the opposite side. Behind the set screws are a pair of tapered pieces that lock into the round dovetail on the compound itself. You'll need to pull the screws all the way out for the taper shoes to clear and allow the compound to lift out.




In addition to what hitandmiss said, you might want to run a file up inside the T slot for the same reason. Mine actually is pretty flat on top, but inside the T slot it had some burrs and dings. Still running the lantern, but knocking off the high spots so things sit as flat as possible helps.

All: Thanks very much for the excellent suggestions. After backing out the two set screws the assembly lifted off easily.

I'll clean the piece up as well while I have apart.

Attached is a pic and description of the machine as posted on Steve Well's site registry: SN: 103015, 10R x 3', "10" Swing 11/16" Collet Lathe", Catalog No. 499-Y . "The hole thru the spindle is 1".

Also a few pics of what I received with the lathe....

Sounds like you solved the problem.

The first arrow in the first photo is not a fastener. It's the location where a pin wrench
would be inserted to allow you to remove the entire feed screw, bushing, dial, and handle
assembly from the casting. Right hand threads.

The second arrow shows where you are missing the nut that holds the knob on the
feed assembly. You should make a replacement to be sure the knob does not accidentally work
its way loose. The pin visible is the dutchman that prevents the knob from spinning
on the shaft. Do NOT lose it and do not bugger up the places where it seats, if the
knob does come off.

Interesting, a back drive 10L mounted to a virtually identical cabinet as my underdrive 10L. Where you have drawers, I have a motor.

gadget73 said:

Interesting, a back drive 10L mounted to a virtually identical cabinet as my underdrive 10L. Where you have drawers, I have a motor.

Click to expand...

I noticed that too. I have never seen a "table top" style drive for a Heavy 10.
Nice lathe!

Dave