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Rough and tumble Heavy 10 rebuild.

hydrogeo

Plastic
Joined
May 7, 2011
Location
New Hampshire
I have finally gotten around to giving some attention to my neglected Heavy 10. I have just gotten started and can already tell this is going to be one of those "bit off more than I can chew" projects. So what else is new. I'm not worried about it coming out perfect, I just want everything to work right and not have it look like, well, the rest of the junk in my garage. This is too nice a piece machinery not to give it some respect.

Anyway before starting I bought one of the Ilion manuals from EBay. Wow, what a great resource. If the author is on here I just want to say thanks, I would be sunk for sure without the manual. I also bought some paint:

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Paint counter guy insisted this was really good stuff. We shall see. I decided on a royal blue.

Started my teardown with the easy stuff. To strip paint I purchased a cheapo needle scaler. This is my new favorite air tool.

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Then I started on the apron. Boy, those taper pins are a joy.

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Found that some decided to machine some birdseed at some point.
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Everything went well until I got to the worm gear. Now I am stuck. The lion manual says there are pins holding the threaded collars on the worm gear shaft but I can't find any. I tried in vain to just unscrew the collars. The collar toward the chuck has six indents and the one toward the tail stock has five. These look like something for a spanner wrench but none of them seems to be a pin.

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Anyone willing to offer some input on how to get this apart?
 
Buy the manual on Ebay for rebuilding the heavy 10s: NEW Rebuild Manual for South Bend Lathe 10L - Heavy 10 | eBay Well worth the money. Has saved me hours of frustration in the rebuild of my heavy 10. Also buy a good set of starting punches - don't try to drive out the taper pins with pin punches, use starting punches. also, use this stuff: http://www.discountofficeitems.com/cleaning-breakroom/cleaning-janitorial-supplies/cleaners-disinfectants/multipurpose-cleaners/johnsondiversey-oven-grill-cleaner-19oz-aerosol/p47726.html for cleaning. Spray it on and hit it with a power washer and you have bare metal.
 
On the worm gear :
The collars retaining the worm gear are threaded , then pinned with a straight pin . One pin on each end goes all the way through .
Looks like yours had been worked on before ; maybe they took some slack out , drilled new hole and pressed in new pin .
Look on the inside to see which pin goes through . My pins came out easily using a pin punch . ( flat bottom )
The half nuts and interlock rod will have to be removed before you can get the worm gear out .
 
On the worm gear :
The collars retaining the worm gear are threaded , then pinned with a straight pin . One pin on each end goes all the way through .
Looks like yours had been worked on before ; maybe they took some slack out , drilled new hole and pressed in new pin .
Look on the inside to see which pin goes through . My pins came out easily using a pin punch . ( flat bottom )
The half nuts and interlock rod will have to be removed before you can get the worm gear out .

That's what I thought. My frustration is that there is absolutely no evidence of pins on the inside on the keyed collar. I tried shining a bright light in there, using a sharpie, etc. and can't find any evidence of pins going all the way through. Any thoughts?
 
You would not expect to find a pin in a blind hole , but it is possible .
From the photos it is difficult to see ; how deep are the holes in the lock / adjust collar ?
Maybe they don't all reach the threads ? Maybe just deep enough to use a pin / hook wrench?
If it's so tight that a wrench was needed to turn it , a pin would seem unnecessary .
I would want to know if the bottom of the hole shows threads , or if it looks like the bottom of a drilled hole .
 
You would not expect to find a pin in a blind hole , but it is possible .
From the photos it is difficult to see ; how deep are the holes in the lock / adjust collar ?
Maybe they don't all reach the threads ? Maybe just deep enough to use a pin / hook wrench?
If it's so tight that a wrench was needed to turn it , a pin would seem unnecessary .
I would want to know if the bottom of the hole shows threads , or if it looks like the bottom of a drilled hole .

PeterJ, you nailed it. I gently ran a drill down each hole and found one threaded hole on each collar. It seems somebody before me tried to remove the shaft but did not notice the set screws. Instead they beat on the collars with a punch in the set screw holes to try and spin them off. They must have just given up.

I drilled out both set screws but the collars still would not spin off. The previous "mechanic" must have beat on the collars so hard the set screws buggered the threadsup. I ended up using an air hammer with a pointed chisel to spin the collars off. Not pretty but it worked. I cleaned up the threads with a small file. Just need to re-tap the set screw holes and It should be good enough.

Got the rest of the apron torn down and stripped the paint off. Going to do some prep and paint the tail stock and apron parts next.
 
A bit more progress. I have the apron, saddle, all the covers, and tailstock strippded and ready for paint. I hit the insides of the covers with a couple coats of primer.

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The inside parts that look original have a burnt orange paint so I'm going to try to match that as close as I can with some good spray paint. I figure these parts wont see wear like the external parts. I just want them to look decent.

I don't see anything really needing repair so far. All the gears in the apron look good. Anyone care to comment on the half nut wear:

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To me they look pretty good but I'm not sure.
 
The Half Nuts look good to me also .
For your amusement , I will add photos of some worn ones .
 

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Wow, that's wear. Would wear on the half nuts or lead screw result in incorrect thread pitch? This is my first foray into machine tools, so this stuff is all new to me.
 
Those half nuts came from a change gear 9Jr. , so they did the threading and the fine feed ; a lot it seems .
Never used them myself ; bought the lathe to rob parts from it .
As far as threading with a worn lead screw , I don't see a big problem as long as it's a short thread , you take out all the slack , and stay either in the worn area , or the lightly worn area . Even with a long screw it may be hard to notice unless the nut is real long .
Have not done it yet , but when I go to making my own cross feed screw , I will be real careful about which part of the bed , and therefore which part of the lead screw I use .
 
Work has been crazy, but finally a little more progress. Got all the apron parts, tail stock, and covers stripped and de-greased, and brushed on the first coat of paint. I'm really happy with the color, but I definitely need another coat.

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The lines in the picture look a bit sloppy but in person they are really crisp. I have been following the methods outlined in the Ilion manual, and that has been a huge help:).
 
So this thing sat in my garage in about 1,347 pieces since my last post 2012. I finally got fed up with myself, stopped making excuses, and got back at it. By some miracle it all went back together.

Here's how it sits today:



Bad picture but it actually came out really nice. Very happy with the paint choice. I learned a few lessons along the way as well:

1) taper pins are truly an evil invention
2) I don't think I will ever mess with the quick change gearbox shafts again
3) Factoring in the cost of beer I think I could have bought a new 10" swing Shop Fox lathe from Northern Tool

All kidding aside, this thing is a really nice looking piece of equipment now. I have yet to get some new oilers for the headstock, and am missing one spacer on the back gear shaft that was not there when I got the lathe that I will need to track down or make. Other than that my next (and last) big challenge is the wiring.

I attempted to wire up the motor I had, but in the process found out that the previous owner's incorrect wiring job had pretty much smoked it. So I found a good deal on a new Leeson. I just have to sort out the wiring and I should be good to go.

Forgive me for being a newbie, as I have no machine experience, but how important is it that I have the ability to run the lathe in reverse? I don't plan on doing a ton of threading.

Iwannanew10k-sugaring season is almost upon us again, and I still owe you some syrup for that carriage lock! PM me please.
 
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Forgive me for being a newbie, as I have no machine experience, but how important is it that I have the ability to run the lathe in reverse? I don't plan on doing a ton of threading.
I wired the reverse on mine because it was there but other than testing that it works have never used it.

If your planing on doing non standard threading like metric where you can't use the threading dial it would come in handy but other than that I can't think of a good reason to run in reverse.

Ken from Canada.
 
I wired the reverse on mine because it was there but other than testing that it works have never used it.

If your planing on doing non standard threading like metric where you can't use the threading dial it would come in handy but other than that I can't think of a good reason to run in reverse.

Ken from Canada.

Tapping with the tailstock.
 
C'mon, we all have enough drab grayness in our lives. In all fairness, I have not had the flames airbrushed on yet:D

Well............. If you are going to commit heiresy, I've often pondered clearcoat black with red and polished handles..... The black would be bad to the bone and a fantastic canvas for a flame job! :D

Just my $.02 worth....

Frank
 








 
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