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Thread: There are Many like it.... But this one is MINE :~)

  1. #1
    Yort81 is offline Plastic
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    Default There are Many like it.... But this one is MINE :~)

    In the Seattle area.... South Bend lathes come up seldom...and when they do... they go for a premium price and they go quickly! I paid $450 for this one ... and it cam with nothing... and it came bare...lol (no chuck... no tool holder or tooling... wrench, thread dial etc) It did have the counter pulley and a motor that may or may not work.

    First up... the ugly.... I knew the 80tooth idler gear had a chipped tooth... but when i got her home and took off the bull gear guard... there was a tooth missing on the back gear~small gear. The Bed was dinged up around the chuck area.. and a chip or two here and there... all in all....I dont think to bad...(ive never run a metal lathe ... and this is my first to own one). Someone has recently try to do a drunken home paint job on it.... so i might strip the whole thing down and see if i cant get rid of some of the rough spots and smooth things out with one color....(it needs to be pretty...yes?)

    This weekend i'll begin stripping it down....I have purchased the "rebuild" kit from "FleaBay"... with the manual and the oiler felts as well as the new thrust bearing kit and some new oil gits...(there was a broken one on the gearbox)

    Currently...im checking with a friend of mine who owns a machine shop to see if he can repair the missing tooth on the back gear.

    One thing that is perplexing to me... is the tail stock spindle spins.... rotates when i try to crank it out or in....and will not work unless i hold it in position and then crank...so i took it apart and looked at it.... it seems to be missing the long key... but...i dont see how that keeps it from spinning in the tail stock... because the main casting doesnt have a slot/keyway for it to ride in like the spindle does....it's just a smooth bore.... and the manual doesnt have an exploded view of how that is supposed to work.... so if someone has some help for me here...I sure would appreciate it....

    I am not terribly sure what im going to do for a chuck... I will initially be using this to turn metal pens...(ive been doing it on my grizzly wood lathe up till now...and it's tiring) the largest stock i will be turning to begin with will be 3/4 round stock to begin with (some stainless...i hope too) and ive been looking at a Beall Collet chuck and a set of ER 32 Collets (is that possible with the southbend 9?)

    Also in conjunction with the chuck.... I'll need to get a tool holder and some tooling..... someone suggested the Diamond Tool Holder from a guy that makes them in Australia...(wow...almost $200) and I still have to buy a tool post too.... So... any and all help and advice would be most appreciated

    Thank you .... Troy
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails frontview.jpg   endview.jpg   motor-pully.jpg   bed.jpg   brokentooth.jpg  


  2. #2
    Rick_B is offline Hot Rolled
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    Hi Troy and welcome. I'm a relatively,newbie myself so I can't offer you much. Regarding the tail stock - on mine the key is located under the front of the TS casting where the spindle comes out and is installed at an angle. Take a look there to see if thee is a spot for the key to be inserted.

    Rick
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  3. #3
    Yort81 is offline Plastic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_B View Post
    Hi Troy and welcome. I'm a relatively,newbie myself so I can't offer you much. Regarding the tail stock - on mine the key is located under the front of the TS casting where the spindle comes out and is installed at an angle. Take a look there to see if thee is a spot for the key to be inserted.

    Rick

    Rick.... i see the keyway "slot" in the quill itself... and then in the casting there is a smooth angled hole, about 1/4 inch round that goes into the quill area... does that have a stud that is threaded into the key that is in the quill slot? I'll try and get some pictures of it... and post them tonight.

  4. #4
    Rick_B is offline Hot Rolled
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    If memory serves - it is a unique key - round with a key shape on the top where it goes into the quill. There are no threads but there is a set screw through the side of the TS casting that holds the "round" key in place.

    Rick

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    sealark37 is offline Hot Rolled
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    You will not be disappointed with the tangential tool holder from BayCom. I mount mine in an Aloris AXA holder, but I think that you will be satisfied with most any wedge-type post of that size. The collet chuck will work well for your work, but you can find a good used 5" three-jaw that will offer much more capability. The internet offers a wide range of parts and accessories for your machine. I have had good luck with Tools-4-Cheap. Regards, Clark
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  6. #6
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    mokusbajusz is offline Aluminum
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    You can see where the key protrudes from the bottom of the bore.

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    jkopel is offline Hot Rolled
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    Hey Troy,
    Send me a PM, I am down in Seattle and I have an extra 80 tooth idler I can give you a good deal on, and I have some other stuff you might want as well.

    Josh

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    jkopel is offline Hot Rolled
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    Default back gear

    Member Finegrain (http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/members/finegrain/) here on PM repairs backgears and he is out near you.
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  9. #9
    Yort81 is offline Plastic
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    Quote Originally Posted by mokusbajusz View Post
    You can see where the key protrudes from the bottom of the bore.

    you dont happen to have a picture of that key? Is it round .. with the exception of the end of the key that protruded into the bore? or does it have a set screw... because on mine...i cant find a set screw hole.

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    Yort81 is offline Plastic
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    Josh... thank you.... PM is sent :~) thank you....



    Does anyone have a good and reasonable priced threading dial and a Micrometer Carriage Stop for a southbend 9a?

  11. #11
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    mokusbajusz is offline Aluminum
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yort81 View Post
    you dont happen to have a picture of that key? Is it round .. with the exception of the end of the key that protruded into the bore? or does it have a set screw... because on mine...i cant find a set screw hole.
    I do not have any pic about the key itself, since I did not have to replace it, but I cleaned the casting to bare metal and I could not observe any set screw, moreover the key itself could only hardly be noticed. I assume it shall look like you described.
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    jkopel is offline Hot Rolled
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    Troy,
    Unfortunately you are probably not going to find a picture of the key itself since they are not supposed to come out!
    There is no set screw, and there is no way to tell what the other end of the thing looks like.
    That said, here are a few shots I took to try and give you a little more detail (hard to get anything better with my camera).

    img_2911.jpgimg_2912.jpg

    You have a unique opportunity to see what the hole UNDER the key looks like.
    Get a small inspection mirror and shine a light down there and report back for posterity.
    It looks like you could fashion something usable out of a chunk of 3/16 key stock with a file and tap it down into the hole.
    If it needs more support under it then you might want to start with a little piece of 3/16 inch thick cold rolled ( and dedicate some time with a file).

    Josh
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  13. #13
    Yort81 is offline Plastic
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    Josh....I have the lathe torn down at this very moment (into it's component pieces) I'll take that picture and post here tonight :~)

  14. #14
    Yort81 is offline Plastic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_B View Post
    If memory serves - it is a unique key - round with a key shape on the top where it goes into the quill. There are no threads but there is a set screw through the side of the TS casting that holds the "round" key in place.

    Rick

    Rick..Ive looked for the set screw hole.. it's just not there... Im guessing this is a press fit "job" ... ive seen the pictures that Josh has posted...and i think you are right... it is round with a unique key shape on top.... Im thinking of threading the hole... and then grinding down the threaded end of a machine bolt to make a key shape..... and then using a jamb nut to hold everything in place.

  15. #15
    Yort81 is offline Plastic
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    Default Tail Stock End

    Here are the pictures of the tail stock .... from the spindle end... the crank end... and underneath.... i placed a piece of cotton in there so you could better see on the underneath picture.

    I and find a set screw hole to hold this key in... so im assuming that it is a press fit item.... has anyone got a picture of it... or even the key it's self?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails spindle-end.jpg   underside.jpg   crank-end.jpg  

  16. #16
    EarlF is offline Cast Iron
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yort81 View Post
    Rick..Ive looked for the set screw hole.. it's just not there... Im guessing this is a press fit "job" ... ive seen the pictures that Josh has posted...and i think you are right... it is round with a unique key shape on top.... Im thinking of threading the hole... and then grinding down the threaded end of a machine bolt to make a key shape..... and then using a jamb nut to hold everything in place.
    I don't think you need to do any of that. Just get some round stock to fit and file or grind the key tab in one end. After all, it can't go anywhere once the quill is installed, it is fully enclosed.

    After second look at pictures (alright first at one of them) if that hole goes all the way through just fill the bottom with something like a piece of lead or even jb weld or bondo. The pin really should not have any down force on it.

    I think you have a first here by the way because I did not think there was a single part on his lathe that the fellow from Budapest did not clean fix or repair. You should look his thread documenting his awesome work.

    Regards,

    Earl, and good luck

  17. #17
    Rick_B is offline Hot Rolled
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    Sorry for the mis-guidance. You got me curious so I took my TS apart. There's no set screw and I couldn't get the key out to take a picture. (Although at one point in the restoration it was out). I agree with Earl - get a piece of bar stock that is a tight fit and file a key shape on the end.

    Rick
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  18. #18
    Yort81 is offline Plastic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_B View Post
    Sorry for the mis-guidance. You got me curious so I took my TS apart. There's no set screw and I couldn't get the key out to take a picture. (Although at one point in the restoration it was out). I agree with Earl - get a piece of bar stock that is a tight fit and file a key shape on the end.

    Rick
    Hey Rick... do you have pictures of your rebuild online? Id love to see them

  19. #19
    Rick_B is offline Hot Rolled
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    Here's a link to my rebuild thread - lots of pictures and questions in it. Post 154 (near the end) has a link to a summary video.

    Rick

  20. #20
    jkopel is offline Hot Rolled
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    Tony
    I looked at a tailstock I have left over from my rebuild sans paint.
    I can see the shaft of the "key" is round and it appears to be a press fit (no set screw as you have discovered).

    I would definitely NOT thread the hole!
    Think about it, as you turn the new key you make into the hole to get it to just the right height, how are you going to guarantee the square part of the key is parallel to the tailstock bore?

    You will shortly have a working lathe.
    You can turn down a piece of stock to be a nice fit in the hole, file the end to 3/16 square, put a little locktite 608 on the rod, slide it in with the tailstock ram in position to get things aligned, and done.

    Josh

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