Threaded Chuck Removal

Hello,
I recently bought a SB 10L with the treaded spindle.

The first time I needed to remove the chuck I was clueless on how to get it off. I ended up locking up the spindle in the back gear and lightly tapping a large crescent wrench on one of the jaws with a rubber mallet. It did loosen, luckily I did not chip or damage the bull gear etc. or hurt the chuck (I had sense enough to tighten the jaws in).

I bought the book "How to run a Lathe" and it showed using a wood block and rotating the spindle (in back gear) by hand to remove the chuck.

I tried this and found the block kept slipping out so I made a wood block fixture and that cured the block slipping. I've also found that 99% of the time I cannot loosen the chuck unless I use a strap wrench on spindle pulley (see pics).

Is there any chance I will damage the bull gear or chuck using this setup? Are there any tips or a better method anyone can share with me? Gary

Hi There,

That is one of the best solutions I've seen! I applaud your ingenuity. There is always the chance that the pin in the bull gear will shear off if too much stress is put on it.

I'll pass along this bit of information. When you mount your chucks, screw them on gently! Spinning the chuck on wedges then onto the threads and makes removal difficult. Also, keep the threads (on the spindle and the chuck) clean and lightly oiled! This will help too.

Good Luck and Nice Job!
-Blue Chips-
Webb

Looks like a good solution to an age old problem. Now I have a use for the strap wrench that I got for Christmas a few years ago. I knew it would come in handy sooner or later. That's the last time I use a rubber mallet on mine!

I've done about the same thing with what looks like exactly the same strap wrench. I was very surprised once when the strap snapped!! Banged up a few fingers...

Sorry, to hear about your fingers but it's good to know the strap wrench will break before the bull gear etc. I'll keep it in mind when using it. Gary

I must be doing something wrong because my chuck never gets so tight that I can't open the jaws up, lock up the back gear, stick an 14" piece of pine between any two jaws and bump it with my other hand. I don't need a hammer and it just comes loose. I do keep the threads clean and oiled as someone above mentioned. In theory prying against the jaws wouldn't be advisable I know, but you'd have to put some "real" a-- to it to overcome the jaws strength.

Does mine come off so easy because I'm too timid in my depth of cuts? I'm a rookie and don't want to horse it.

If you never 'snap' the chuck onto the
spindle, you will have an easy time removing
it as you say.

One sure-fire way to get tooling jammed on tight
is to be taking interrupted cuts on a workpiece.
That's when I have the most trouble.

Jim

I agree with Jim, also the threads might be dirty, which will cause binding. I have a 18" 3/4x3/8 cold rolled stock handy for removal of tight chucks,[Open the jaws a bit slip it in and give it a light pull], with back gear engauged its mighty strong. If your back gear is adjusted right it will pop out of back gear before the pin breaks.

I use a piece of 1" hex shaft, a 3/4" drive T handle with the spindle in backgear. But then I don't have all that much experience. Never broke anything on my SB 14 1/2; I do love the 8' bed.

Paul