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removing rust from ways??

peyton

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 7, 2007
Location
houston
I just bought a 13" with surface rust on the ways. The ways are bright and shiny ... except for the flaking which is where the surface rust is. I don't want to use anything very aggressive because the ways, except for the surface rust, are mirror-like. Suggestions? Thanks

Peyton
 
Clean,oil and forget about it.

How about a plastic dish scrubby(the thing that looks like steal wool but plastic)and WD-40.I would think that anything other than that could dull down the finish on the " bright and shiny "areas.Do not use Scotch brite or you will have a flat finish on the ways. Could we see a picture?I would clean with the scrubby and WD-40 then wipe dry and coat with Vactra-2 And forget about it.

Don
 
How about a plastic dish scrubby(the thing that looks like steal wool but plastic)and WD-40.I would think that anything other than that could dull down the finish on the " bright and shiny "areas.Do not use Scotch brite or you will have a flat finish on the ways. Could we see a picture?I would clean with the scrubby and WD-40 then wipe dry and coat with Vactra-2 And forget about it.

Don

Thanks Don. I *was* trying to preserve the "bright and shiny" and the dish scrubber would probably work ... maybe better in copper (as Mike suggested) than in plastic tho. I haven't picked it up yet but I'll get a picture when I do. Thanks to everybody for their responses.

Peyton

ps: I considered using phosphoric acid and know that it would work well on the rust but I was concerned that it might discolor the non-rusty part.
 
Any acid I have found strong enough to remove rust will etch the base metal too (even vinegar!). So no more shiny metal. What I have used is Scotchbrite pads and WD40. It leaves a nice satin finish but will dull any polished surface. BTY you can buy a huge box of Scotchbrite scouring pads at the Costco commercial outlets for really cheap. Thay are sold for restaurant/kitchen use.

Randy
 
I recommend you use only the Grey scotchbrite pads... they are a much finer grit than the green or red ones...which will remove more than just rust (metal) if you are not careful.
 
Besure and let any oil used soak for awail so the rust will soften. Also dont move the carage or any slides before treating any ways to what ever you do.


I think your going to loose a little shinny no matter what you do, but the oil and copper scrubby pad would be a good shot. Work lightly, and use the copper pad with a light motion with one or a few stroke, then use a soft cloth to pick up any looosened rust before making another pass so the old rust doesnt start working as a abrasive.

Infact after doing a good oil soaking, before doing any scrubing, I would work with a soft cloth to try and pick up any rust you could. Maybe lay the cloth across a area, with light pressure move it about a 1/4" and then pickup what rust will come before having to scrub. Let the oil soak for hours before doing anything.


Jess
 
to bring the thread up to date

Well, once I got it out into the light where I could really see it, I realized that, altho the ways seem to have zero (0) wear, there is less of the bright and shiny than I thought and am now leaning strongly toward 0000 steel wool and oil. I haven't started yet but hope to do so soon. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Peyton
 
You can get bronze wool- which will not scratch steel. My local Westlakes carries it- but only in medium. It works well with "Loose nut" or similar products.

If you have any original scraped way surface to preserve I would stonlgy suggest the electolytic rust removal as on Frank Fords site.

Rust is harder than the steel or iron it forms on, and if you do not get it all cleaned off it will wear you ways much faster than you would think.
 
You can get bronze wool- which will not scratch steel. My local Westlakes carries it- but only in medium. It works well with "Loose nut" or similar products.

If you have any original scraped way surface to preserve I would stonlgy suggest the electolytic rust removal as on Frank Fords site.

Rust is harder than the steel or iron it forms on, and if you do not get it all cleaned off it will wear you ways much faster than you would think.

Thanks for the reminder. I had forgotten about electrolysis altho I used it on a large wood-planer bed once upon a time. Frank's method is ingenious and might work well on the ways ... I'll look into it. Thanks

I've never seen bronze wool and am not familiar with "loose nut" either; is it a "pb blaster" type product?

Peyton
 
Loose Nut is a term I recall from the past- or may have hallucinated as I cannot find it with Google...

What I have the basement is Liquid Wrench.

On Frank Fords site he is using a towel with enough nap to it I suspect it is not making a full liquid contact with the upper metal. When I have done this I have used a sheet or other fabric which has a smoother surface

Electically conductive jels are made for EKG's- but I suspect the cost would be prohibitve.

I just asked my wife if Jello would firm up if it had lots of baking soda in it. She immedialty shook her head "no" - with a look leading me to believe she has not a clue- but does not want any involvement of her.. or her kitchen... in whatever it is I am thinking of this time...
 
light rust? GO-JO citrus hand cleaner on a rag. Surface rust go-jo on a scotch bright.
works great on tools.
and no I an not loosing it ..try it
 
Hand cleaner

I can attest to the hand cleaner usage. I took some parts off of my SB 11" to work to remove the layers of paint, barnacles, rust, cooties, etc.

I used a scotch brite and some super fine (walnut shell based) cleaner to help with the removal and believe it or not. It worked awesome!

Best regards
Sean G.:D
 
If you want to start conservatively, buy some kitchen scrubbers that are labeled " non-abrasive" or " no scratch". They sometimes have a sponge on one side, and what looks like Scotch Brite on the other, but they won't scratch soft surfaces like countertops. Also, be aware that a lot of the copper looking kitchen scrubbers are actually steel with a thin copper coating. Take a magnet with you to buy them.
 
chopp and seang are you using the gojo citrus with the pumice, or just the straight cleaner??

I have used TopCote for the surface of my woodworking machines, as a surface lube and protectant. Has anyone used this on their lathe ways and mill tables? In an unheated shop??

thanks
dd
 
I use TopCote on my mill table and on the way of the Atlas, and on pliers, wrenchs and such, drill press columns/tables etc, in a completely unheated garage will pretty good results thus far. Works exponentially better than oil as it won't float to the surface.

I think the key is to spray generously, let it "soak" in, and then rub in the white, waxy layer that forms. Then spray everything again. Any surfaces have to be absolutely free of oil and grease prior to application, however.

I also use it on the underbody and engine of my car, but that's a whole other story...
 
Toolpost,
thanks for the info, and the detail, as this is a heavier application than I use on my woodworking machines. Although, I think I will go heavier on them as well.
again, thanks
dd
 








 
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