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What do you guys think of this SB Heavy 10?

D

Domodude17

Aluminum
Joined
Aug 14, 2017
Found this semi-locally to me on craigslist. Seems to be a decent deal, despite not coming with much in the way of tooling. He also said it needs some adjustments or fine tuning, is there anything that would make this an absolute deal breaker? Are adjustments going to be difficult to make? Thoughts?

South Bend Heavy 1 lathe - tools - by owner - sale

Thanks
 
It's a little hard to say from a few pictures. It does appear to be pretty clean although that's probably not the original paint. It does have the old "single lever" gearbox and the "star" wheel for feed engagement. These are not necessarily bad things, just not quite as versatile as the later stuff.

One thing I would look at are the headstock bearings. It appears from the picture that they may very likely be the old-style segmented iron bearings. They are very, very good bearings if kept well-oiled and clean. They won't stand quite the high speed as the later bronze bearings but they can be very good. If I were buying that lathe, I would ask to have the bearing caps pulled so that I could look at the condition of the spindle journals and the bearing bores. If they are grooved and carved up, I'd walk away because you can't really fix that with the iron bearings. If they're in nice shape, then you have a life long headstock.

How acceptable that machine may be as a lathe depends a little bit on what you expect out of it. If you want "half-thou" machining tolerances, then it needs to have little wear. If you just want a lathe to mess with, then it's probably just fine.
 
I would say you will not buy it as if you have to think about a heavy 10 for $550, you don't know what you're looking for.

In this case you need to know how to move it and respond quick. Even so, trying to see and pay for it immediately is a wise choice on such a lathe. I wouldn't be surprised if it's sold already. It even includes the restoration manual...:rolleyes5:

(I like how the seller left the wrench in the chuck...NOT)
 
That's not a 9C, thats a 9JR, built circa 1926-28. They are good, simple lathes, same bed as the 10L basically, but low spindle speeds, and no power feeds. I have one and it makes a fine second lathe.

As for the 10L, he who hesitates is lost.

allan
 
kitno455 said:
That's not a 9C, thats a 9JR, built circa 1926-28. They are good, simple lathes, same bed as the 10L basically, but low spindle speeds, and no power feeds. I have one and it makes a fine second lathe.

As for the 10L, he who hesitates is lost.

allan
Click to expand...

How can you tell its not a 9C? I was debating picking it up and eventually converting it to a 9A. Are there major differences? I know the 9C doesn't have any power feeds unless you count the lead screw. Why is it slower?
 
Domodude17 said:
Why is that? Just curious. I think i'm definitely going to keep an eye on it...
Click to expand...

Keep an eye on it??? You're funny...you don't want that lathe. More so, there is probably multiple replies to the seller already, the chances of you getting it are so small, it's probably not worth thinking about. Use this as a learning experience. You need to do more homework before buying a South Bend lathe. If you do not know what you're looking for, you will have a hard time pulling the trigger.

Best of luck in finding a lathe, but do yourself a favor and educate yourself before you shop, it never seems to work out too well the other way around...:rolleyes5:
 
traditional-tools said:
Keep an eye on it??? You're funny...you don't want that lathe. More so, there is probably multiple replies to the seller already, the chances of you getting it are so small, it's probably not worth thinking about. Use this as a learning experience. You need to do more homework before buying a South Bend lathe. If you do not know what you're looking for, you will have a hard time pulling the trigger.

Best of luck in finding a lathe, but do yourself a favor and educate yourself before you shop, it never seems to work out too well the other way around...:rolleyes5:
Click to expand...

I meant keep an eye on the 9C (apparently 9jr). I never really intended to get a heavy 10, so I never looked into them much, and I certainly never expected to find one in that kind of price range. I'd ideally get a 9A, but most of the ones near me are selling for around 2500 or so. If that smaller lathe was actually a 9C, i'd consider eventually converting it to a 9A.
 
Domodude17 said:
I meant keep an eye on the 9C (apparently 9jr). I never really intended to get a heavy 10, so I never looked into them much, and I certainly never expected to find one in that kind of price range. I'd ideally get a 9A, but most of the ones near me are selling for around 2500 or so. If that smaller lathe was actually a 9C, i'd consider eventually converting it to a 9A.
Click to expand...

Again, as TT has said, do some research and then go after a lathe. Converting a 9c to 9a is no small task and counter-productive. Figure out exactly what you want for your needs and then shop after getting a good knowledge base on the particular machine you settle on.
 
Flag is the needs adjustment statement.

That is a generic catch all excuse to cover anything and everything used by both smart and not so smart folks dealing with same.

Always ask what needs adjustment and why does it need it and pay attention to what is said as it could be dead honest genuine simple adjustment or it could be warped bed.

Price looks generally good but that depends on market.

Nothing wrong with single lever gearbox or the clutch other than they were old versions and if not worn out then fine.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
Domodude17 said:
How can you tell its not a 9C? I was debating picking it up and eventually converting it to a 9A. Are there major differences? I know the 9C doesn't have any power feeds unless you count the lead screw. Why is it slower?
Click to expand...

As mentioned before, too old to be a 9A, B or C. It's a 9 inch Junior and an oldie. No 9A parts will fit because it's not a 9C. After about a week of changing change gears (if you have them) you will regret not getting the heavy 10 with any kind of gear box. Why is it slower? Made before the general use of HSS or carbide. Ohio is not a hole in the wall location for South Bends, the state is wall papered with them. Try Washington, Texas, Idaho or similar for few and far between opportunities. In my California, run of the mill 1940's/1950's SB 9A's run a bout $ 550 to $ 800. Would have to be near mint for $ 1,500. $ 2,500 for a 9A is insane, anywhere. My last 9A with underdrive, taper attachment, chucks, loads of tooling came with a Diamond 22M horizontal mill and a cache of steel and brass bars for $ 800 everything. Bargains are out there to be jumped on.

John
 
Domodude17 said:
How can you tell its not a 9C?
Click to expand...

Because every part is different. Apron, halfnut lever, 4 spoke handwheel, tailstock shape, tailstock quill clamping lever, compound hold down nuts, headstock shape, the little knob sticking out of the end gear cover, the spring lever on the reverser lever, the shape of the bed feet, the style of leadscrew hangers, the heavy square ridge at the lower edge of the bed. Take a good look at a picture of a 9C and compare to this lathe. Every detail is different.

Why is it slower?
Click to expand...

Because it has simple bronze box bearings, soft spindle and total loss oiling. I never run mine above 600 or 700 RPM.

allan
 
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