What Does the Arm Mount Look Like?

I have this:



I want to convert to this control arm cantilevered to approximately half way across:



I need to know what the attachment device looks like at the bench level (or, the part of the arm that you can't see). I have a taper attachment, so it will have to be mounted all the way in the upper left corner. I was thinking of using a plumbing floor flange to mount the rigid conduit for my arm, but I was worried about the strength of the flange. Mounting and rerouting the wiring will be no problem, it's just that I have no idea what the South Bend mount looks like.

Does anyone have pictures of their mount?

I have always been of the opinion that this was an unsafe design. Having to reach across a moving workpiece, to turn the machine on and off is in my opinion dangerous. Can you not come up with a better place to put your switch.

stay safe and have fun.

Joe.

I agree with promacjoe. I wouldn't feel safe reaching over the work that often. I would look for one that mounts on the headstock. But if you really have your heart set on that style, there's one here:

Original South Bend Heavy 10 Lathe Foward Reverse Bracket Mill Machinist Tool | eBay

Here's one that mounts on the headstock, but you may need to drill and tap for the screws if yours doesn't already have them from the factory:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-SO...b&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=321719708005&rt=nc

The arm mounts to the top of the disconnect box.



If you have concerns about being able to shut down in a emergency mount a stop switch here.

Hi, I'll take some pics of mine tonight for you. Apologies, when you asked (on the 10L rebuild thread) about the mounts i thought you were referring to the back of the bed. The look of the base of my arm is different to the one shown above.

edit: no needs for pics - the photo shown in the above ebay auction is exactly like mine. If you are interested in the mounts at the back of the bed, then I do have photos over in the rebuild thread.

I know how the arm mounts in the old style base/legs combo, thanks to your photo in your 10L rebuild.

My cutoff box is on the tailstock end of the lathe. Rigid conduit leads from the box to the center (in the back) of the cabinet, where it goes through a hole, then to the switch and motor. Since I have the taper attachment, the only place to bring the wiring up through the floor of the stand is vertically at the far left (I also have to avoid the mounting of the motor/countershaft assembly).

I was thinking of using one of these


as the initial attachment of the rigid conduit, but I'm not sure if it is strong enough - these Chinese imported flanges are a whisper of what the old American made flanges were, in both depth of threads and quantity of iron... and in quality. THIS is really the area that I want to see how South Bend did it originally - or, did they ever have a control that came out vertically, or was it horizontal, like OldMachinist's photos indicate.

I want to move the control so that I can see it while operating the lathe. Also, I want to clear out the center section of the cabinet, so that I can weld some angle iron supports for shelves (I hate wasted spaces!)