Thread: What have you made WITH your South Bend?

Granny,

Nice looking part.

It's aluminum? Is that going to be up to the job? All the CV flanges I've seen used high strength bolts and a pretty good torque. Will the aluminum in there loosen up in use?

Bill

Originally Posted by grannyknot

I'm in the middle of installing a bmw M6 engine in a 1972 Datsun 240Z, had to build an adaptor to mate up the bmw CV joint to the Datsun differential. Had I spent more time on it I could have achieved a better finish but then it will spend all of its time under the car.Attachment 185081Attachment 185082Attachment 185083Attachment 185084Attachment 185085

I have finally been able to finish a project I've been working on for a while. I have a small mill as well and spent a few minutes here and there on my SB 9a lathe (some time on the mill too, I hope that's allowed) and finished this boring head for my mill.
No way was I going to spend a couple hundred bucks on a small boring head so I just spent a way more time that I would like to count to make one. ha. Good thing time isn't money... oh wait.

I made this out of stainless and I'm pretty happy with the results.

Looks great! Nice big dial too.

Pete

double post

Originally Posted by wrljet

Granny,

Nice looking part.

It's aluminum? Is that going to be up to the job? All the CV flanges I've seen used high strength bolts and a pretty good torque. Will the aluminum in there loosen up in use?

Bill

Yes aluminum, the bolts are metric 10.9 grade. I guess I'll find out if it will hold up, I'm not a rev it up and drop the clutch kind of guy.

Originally Posted by grannyknot

Yes aluminum, the bolts are metric 10.9 grade. I guess I'll find out if it will hold up, I'm not a rev it up and drop the clutch kind of guy.

Just don't put huge tires on it,when they are spinning they won't break anything,when they hookup is when something breaks.

Originally Posted by grannyknot

Yes aluminum, the bolts are metric 10.9 grade. I guess I'll find out if it will hold up, I'm not a rev it up and drop the clutch kind of guy.

In a factory setup, those high grade screws are clamping the steel CV joint to a steel flange. The resistance to the joint twisting comes from the friction between the mating surfaces, the result of the clamping force of the screws. The screws do not transfer the driveshaft / axle torque.

My concern is that your aluminum adapter will mush out under the screw heads, so you will not get the high clamping load and resultant friction at the flange. And every time there's a high torque applied it's wiggle a little. Getting worse and worse over (a relatively short) time.

I would recheck the screw torque after running it a while and keep an eye on it.
If the screws don't loosen up, then you're good.

Bill

Hand made

Originally Posted by Rod Williams

hi gary, i used an SB9A. yes the axle was very hard to turn. it was hardened, could not even get a cutter to scratch it at first. used a propane torch with mapp gas and while turning slow in the lathe with all the lights out i could just get a very dull red to appear in the shaft. took about an hour to work my way down the shaft. even then had a few hard spots in the shaft. when i got about .075" in to the thread the half nuts striped. after replacing the half nuts was able to finish the shaft. probly about 100-120 passes.
the nut is the flange end of a crank shaft that i parted off in the lathe and then bored a whole through, the threading was easy ( that is the metal cut easy ), i had never cut acme internal threads before. when i got to the cutting depth and tried to thread the shaft into the nut it would bind. i cut the thread deeper and same result. i rotated the nut slightly in the jaws of the chuck to try and get the cut wider. same result. finaly i got a glimmer of a clue and bored anothe .020" out of the center and wahlah the nut fit the shaft.
all this took a long time but it was a great lesson.
i made a boring bar out of a 5/8" shaft from and old floor jack, cross drilled the end with 1/4" drill and used a set screw to hold the bit. had to heat 1/4" drill shank bright red and douse in cold water to get it hard enough to cut.
i may make a back plate or a face plate out of the left over axle flange.

Only one thing I can say- "Damn!" Nice work!

Scott

Tonight I made a "Machinist's Puzzle", in order to practice my threading...

It came out ok, with a few minor defects- not the least of which is I cut the threads a hair too loose: but not bad for a first attempt... I'm planning to make a few more for friends, and practice building my skills with them...

Scott

good on you delta...that's how you do it...small satisfying projects...and you even have a copy of MH!!!! Why everyone doesn't is beyond me.

You will do well.

Originally Posted by iwananew10K

good on you delta...that's how you do it...small satisfying projects...and you even have a copy of MH!!!! Why everyone doesn't is beyond me.

You will do well.

Thanks! I plan to make 7-10 of them for friends & family, in order to hone my thread cutting skills...

The copy of Machinery Handbook is the 1943 printing, and was my late dad's... I also have all his "International Textbook Company" machinist course textbooks from International Correspondence Schools in Scranton... He got his diploma from them in 1947, but started in 1942... Of course, the Army took a little bit of his time then, too... And I also have "Shop Theory" from The Henry Ford School... LOTS of good reference to learn from! Would have been nice if Dad was still around to play with the lathe- I'm sure he'd be delighted!

I just got my South Bend 9A lathe up and running. It's the second best lathe I have ever used. The best was a low milage Hardinge Super Precision tool room late I used at the University of Wisconsin when I worked there. I could never justify the $17,000.00 price tag for the Hardinge. The South Bend is good enough for me.

I have an old house and like the looks of the original bathtub and shower fittings. However the original valves went to H**l & I had to find a solution. I used Moen rough in roman valves. The only problems were they stick out of the wall too far, The new stems don't fit my old certamic knobs and there is no way to connect the original ceramic escutcheons.

The first problem I solved by cutting them off short enough to fit under the escutcheons. There was enough extra material to do this.

The second problem was complicated by the fact that a couple of the old knobs were broken. The old ones fit on a square stem with a cross screw. The only period value knobs I could find to fit the original valves were splined. I solved the problem by turning down the original stem to fit inside the new tubular stem. I drilled and tapped 4-40 cross holes and fastened them together with flat head stainless steel screws.

Now for the spline. I don't have an indexer on my lathe but I figured out a way to cut a 19 flute spline. I took a strip of paper and wrapped it around the chuck. I marked the end point and measured the circumference. I divided the circumference by 19 and measured and marked 19 equally spaced marks on the strip of paper. I wrapped this strip of paper around the chuck and tapped it in place. I used another piece of paper clamped to the bed as an indicator. Close enough for government work. I put an inserted thread cutting tool bit in the tool holder sideways and lined the point up with the center of the stem in the chuck. I then turned the chuck to the first mark and cut a pass with the carriage wheel. I took .005 passes until the groove was at full depth. I then indexed to the next mark and did it again. I continued this process until I had a 19 flute spline. It worked out better than I expected. The knobs fit perfectly.

To get the escutcheons mounted I made a threaded adaptor that had threads matching it inside of the Moen valve. I cut a second set of threads that would match the escutcheons. It worked out very well and the bathtub and shower look just like original but work like brand new.

Just for fun I made a weighted center clamp for my Thorens turntable. Just a simple turning job.

Next I plan to make a custom tone arm lifter. These thing cost up to $290.00 and they look very simple I think I can do it.

The nice thing about what you did is the Moen valve is guarantied for life, so should never need to mess with again.

made a rifle monopod.

Nice monopod. How much does it weigh?

Hi ja, don't have a scale,but guessing I would say maybe 8-10 oz. The foot is delrin,the screw is stainless, and the rest is aluminum. All from the misc. pile. Jim

I've been working on building a thumb for my model 48 JD backhoe. I had to make a longer pivot pin with a grease fitting in the end and I also made this cap to keep dirt out of the zerk. This project was much of the imptetus for upgrading from a Grizzly G4000 9x20 machine to the current SB13x36 machine.

With my 1921 11" a slow speed attachment for my 1940 Walker Turner drill press.