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South Bend 10k 10x3 Model C

kshaub103

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 24, 2022
Hello, I’m new to the lathe world and PracticalMachinist so bear with me. I recently purchased this lathe it is a 1958 10k model C. I am going thru the machine cleaning and discovering broken parts, missing the standard changing gears but I am hoping to upgrade to a set of metric gear but I would like to have both. The half nut on the apron is broken. I’m curious about upgrading this Model C to a Model B with change gears. I liked the idea of a quick change gear box but I would like to get your opinion? Im planing on restoration this and current and cleaning and striping the paint. I’m I crazy? I probably am but let me know what you think I’m all ears and like to learn.
 
Hello, I’m new to the lathe world and PracticalMachinist so bear with me. I recently purchased this lathe it is a 1958 10k model C. I am going thru the machine cleaning and discovering broken parts, missing the standard changing gears but I am hoping to upgrade to a set of metric gear but I would like to have both. The half nut on the apron is broken. I’m curious about upgrading this Model C to a Model B with change gears. I liked the idea of a quick change gear box but I would like to get your opinion? Im planing on restoration this and current and cleaning and striping the paint. I’m I crazy? I probably am but let me know what you think I’m all ears and like to learn.
would I have to replace the lead screw?
 
Yes, the lead screw as well as the carriage apron. Better to sell what you have and buy what you want. Or learn to use what you have. Not having the power feeds isn't all that bad.
 
I think many of us in the more tech challenged camp would like to see what you come up with.
Please keep reporting!

The biggest issue with SB C models is that they use the lead screw for feeds, which rapidly and selectively wears the leadscrew out, making it useless for thread cutting. (secondary issue is no power cross feed).

Real metal lathes separate the longitudinal feed function which is most of the wear time on the ways and other components, from the screw threads. This includes a gear train in the apron, which drives against the rack under the front way of the lathe. In higher end machines, this is through a keyed "feed rod" and the leadscrew does not turn at all. For lower price point machines, the keyway is milled into the leadscrew, and the leadscrew turns to drive the geartrain, which, opposing the rack, slides along the leadscrew but does not ineract (bear on) the leadscrew threads in any way.

If your leadscrew is unworn, there might well be some advantage to the un-keyed C version for adapting to threading only. Presumably it can be mapped, and accommodated in the software to yield more perfect threads than any mere mechanical drive.

OTOH if the threads are still used to drive the carriage for feeding for all normal turning work, then it will wear and might need occasional software tweaks to keep the threads accurate "everywhere" in the carriage travel.

smt
 
I think many of us in the more tech challenged camp would like to see what you come up with.
Please keep reporting!

The biggest issue with SB C models is that they use the lead screw for feeds, which rapidly and selectively wears the leadscrew out, making it useless for thread cutting. (secondary issue is no power cross feed).

Real metal lathes separate the longitudinal feed function which is most of the wear time on the ways and other components, from the screw threads. This includes a gear train in the apron, which drives against the rack under the front way of the lathe. In higher end machines, this is through a keyed "feed rod" and the leadscrew does not turn at all. For lower price point machines, the keyway is milled into the leadscrew, and the leadscrew turns to drive the geartrain, which, opposing the rack, slides along the leadscrew but does not ineract (bear on) the leadscrew threads in any way.

If your leadscrew is unworn, there might well be some advantage to the un-keyed C version for adapting to threading only. Presumably it can be mapped, and accommodated in the software to yield more perfect threads than any mere mechanical drive.

OTOH if the threads are still used to drive the carriage for feeding for all normal turning work, then it will wear and might need occasional software tweaks to keep the threads accurate "everywhere" in the carriage travel.

smt
Mr. Thomas thanks for this information. Also thanks for the encouragement for this project. I just got down reading a similar post about a guy new to this forum wanting to restore his “new” 10k and it seams some member just think he would be better off selling and not pursing his restoration. The OP never posted on the forum again. My lead screw seams in good condition, I’m hoping to get the gear turning on this project. Currently it’s mostly in my head and on paper. I think my next set is to replace and source all the parts to get is functioning properly just with the gears then when I get a better idea about this lathe then continue with the conversion for the ELS. I see this lathe as an open canvas and doesn’t have a lot bells or whistles so less to work around. Question to anyone would be my back gear is damage and I’m looking for it’s replacement. Is the 9 back gear the same as the 10k?
 








 
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