What have you made FOR your South Bend? - Page 21
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  1. #401
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    Sep 2013
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    IThe way I have this put together, the Morse taper and mandrel with capture slot is turned out of D-2 and captured with a 1"x0.500 bronze sleeve which has been split and subsequently lapped to fit within the pressed-in bronze bushing in the 316 stainless die holder. The knurled aluminum handle/clutch control is attached to the holder and applies pressure on the clutch sleeve within via a radiused 1/2" O-1 rod which was single pointed to 1/2 28 (as I happened to have an oddball tap lying around)

    I was a little worried about it, as the clutch, while very smooth, will allow one to overcome any rotational force I've been able to apply. Fortunately, the thing is robust enough that it will stall my lathe, even in backgear,well before it gets anywhere close to bending anything.
    I had initially thought that I would always hold the handle and modulate the rotation, but the aluminum handle is nice to my ways, and I find that I often just lock down the clutch and let it rest when cutting.

    I generally just leave the tailstock loose to allow the die to advance.
    It hasn't been issue if I start with an appropriate od on the part to be threaded, but, if needed, one can lock the tailstock and push with the feed until the die catches as well.


    If you get slow on the feed, the taper just pulls out of the tail stock and you feel shame...
    Last edited by jonok; 04-04-2016 at 06:07 AM.

  2. #402
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    Apr 2016
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    Colorado
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    I used my LMS 3990 mill (I know, Chinese junk that can't be mentioned) to make a dial indicator clamp for my 10k. This was my first time ever making anything with a mill. Initially, I drill the hole to 3/8" for the large end of the indicator and promptly realized it should not be held by that end. Rather than start over I made a bushing with 1/2" brass rod held in place with a little set screw since I busted my OD when turning on the lathe. All in all, though, I couldn't be happier with my first attempt at machining.

    I angled the far edge so that I can slide it over the v-way and be kept out of the way over the gear box.

    gaugeclamp1.jpg
    gaugeclamp2.jpg

  3. #403
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    Jul 2016
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    Missouri
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    What about replacement Crossfeed screws? Has anyone tried making one of those on the lathe itself? I know, I know, I've got noob fever- I'm just curious. Seems like you could get a piece of appropriately sized prefab thread and go from there.

  4. #404
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    Mar 2004
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    Albertville, Alabama
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    I have done the large dial mod on (2) 9" lathes so far and they require modifying the cross feed screw, I replaced the acme thread part on one of them and lock tired and cross pinned the new acme thread.
    the large dial conversion is a very nice addition to these machines and very worthwhile.

  5. #405
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    south of indy, IN, USA
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    Default Router holder for SB 9c

    Very simple router motor holder for my 9c.

    1/4" Aluminum plate with wooden blocks to fit the motor. Had to angle the motor to get to the center-line of this project, but most of the time I would have a second block beneath the front of the motor.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2016-07-27-23.31.52.jpg  

  6. #406
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    Oct 2016
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    West Virginia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blob View Post
    I finally mounted a work light on my lathe, after struggling with a bench mounted light for far too long. My 10K has a threaded hole in the taper attachment which was originally used to mount a collet rack, but since I keep my collets in a box, I hadn't been using it. I found a brass fitting with the correct threads to match the tapped hole, bored and reamed it to fit a piece of 1/2" steel rod, took my old work light apart and used the parts to clamp the light to the rod. Presto, a light that moves with the carriage, thus keeping the light where I need it. Too bad it took me so long to make this nice addition to the lathe. Here's a pic.


    Blob
    I like the AB&C squirt cans also.

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  8. #407
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    Oct 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by cheepo45 View Post
    Here are some pictures of my Christmas vacation project. I think it came out really well. The tube is 1" black pipe from Home Depot. The rest is 6061 aluminum from my scrap box. The angled part swivels on a teflon thrust washer to avoid galling from the end of the spindle.
    Thanks for posting this! I need to make one.

  9. #408
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    Mar 2004
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    I needed a couple of replacement nuts for my (2) 9" South Bend crank handles. There used to be a guy on eBay that sold these, I couldn't find them so I whipped up 4 of them. 2 for use and 2 for spares.

    img_3395.jpg

    img_3398.jpg

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  11. #409
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    How did you cut the slot? It looks real clean.

  12. #410
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    I used a small slitting saw I bought from Drills & Cutters. Made a mandrel and cut it in 2 passes, .050" on the 1st followed by a .040" pass to finish it.

  13. #411
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    Merchantville, NJ
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    Well, I took a You Tube video's advice, and built a spindle nose protector for the lathe from a 1 1/2-8 nut I picked up at the local sheet metal shop (Fazzios in Glassboro, NJ)... I was not sure how it would go, but, after 3 hours(!) I had what I wanted- and it came out a little better than I thought it had: I was afraid I would have an exposed thread or two sticking out- that I had made it too short. Actually, it is dead flush with the end of the threads on the spindle! I did mess up with the locating of my pin-wrench holes: they are not all at quite the same distance form the edge, but at least they are all just about where they should be around the circumference. First pic is of the remaining nut material after I finished making the piece... I didn't get a "Before" pic...

    I also took a few (lousy) photos of my nice detent plate for the 10L quick change reversing gear lever I put in last week...(Thanks again to FTF Engineering for the concept, and WJ Birmingham for the excellent cut plate!) You can see the trimmed down bolt I used- All fits nicely, and works quite well. You may notice a few staking marks above the upper hole: I made it just a hair high, and those were to distort the top of the hole downwards to move the pin: this takes some unnecessary gear noise out!(although I will probably pull it & then drill & tap a stop pad set screw into it from the top- that will make it a permanent fix.) Right now, in forward, I get a little gear noise which goes away if I rest my fingers on the pin knob...

    And my last pic is (another lousy one) of my facing bit- one of the first ones I cut for myself! I'm really quite tickled with how well it works! And all the machining on the spindle nose protector was done with another bit I cut. (I'm just so damn proud of myself )

    Enjoy!
    Scott










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  15. #412
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    Dec 2008
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    Here are a couple pics of a radius tool I constructed for use on my 10k. I started on this in 2009 and had it nearly finished. I ran into other projects that needed attention and this one sat until a month ago. I originally made two units. I recently sold one on eBay as a project and kept this one. After selling the first I thought I would finish this one up and sell it as a finished tool. After about an hour of machining and fitting the tool was complete. Amazing how time gets away from you!

    I saw this design on Practical Machinist awhile ago and decided to build something similar. I based the stand on a DCMT insert. The pivot uses a Timken taper roller bearing for the heavy load and a needle roller bearing on the top for smooth rotation. The stand slides and clamps on the dovetail. The entire tool is made from 4140 PreHeat material.

    After getting it back from black oxide and assembling I decided to try it out-bad idea. I ruined my plans to sell it!! Worked better than I ever hoped!







    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  16. #413
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    Couple pics of the one I sold.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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