Results 401 to 411 of 411
04-03-2016, 02:31 PM #401
IThe way I have this put together, the Morse taper and mandrel with capture slot is turned out of D-2 and captured with a 1"x0.500 bronze sleeve which has been split and subsequently lapped to fit within the pressed-in bronze bushing in the 316 stainless die holder. The knurled aluminum handle/clutch control is attached to the holder and applies pressure on the clutch sleeve within via a radiused 1/2" O-1 rod which was single pointed to 1/2 28 (as I happened to have an oddball tap lying around)
I was a little worried about it, as the clutch, while very smooth, will allow one to overcome any rotational force I've been able to apply. Fortunately, the thing is robust enough that it will stall my lathe, even in backgear,well before it gets anywhere close to bending anything.
I had initially thought that I would always hold the handle and modulate the rotation, but the aluminum handle is nice to my ways, and I find that I often just lock down the clutch and let it rest when cutting.
I generally just leave the tailstock loose to allow the die to advance.
It hasn't been issue if I start with an appropriate od on the part to be threaded, but, if needed, one can lock the tailstock and push with the feed until the die catches as well.
If you get slow on the feed, the taper just pulls out of the tail stock and you feel shame...
Last edited by jonok; 04-04-2016 at 06:07 AM.
04-25-2016, 01:42 PM #402
I used my LMS 3990 mill (I know, Chinese junk that can't be mentioned) to make a dial indicator clamp for my 10k. This was my first time ever making anything with a mill. Initially, I drill the hole to 3/8" for the large end of the indicator and promptly realized it should not be held by that end. Rather than start over I made a bushing with 1/2" brass rod held in place with a little set screw since I busted my OD when turning on the lathe. All in all, though, I couldn't be happier with my first attempt at machining.
I angled the far edge so that I can slide it over the v-way and be kept out of the way over the gear box.
07-16-2016, 09:41 PM #403
What about replacement Crossfeed screws? Has anyone tried making one of those on the lathe itself? I know, I know, I've got noob fever- I'm just curious. Seems like you could get a piece of appropriately sized prefab thread and go from there.
07-17-2016, 06:09 AM #404
I have done the large dial mod on (2) 9" lathes so far and they require modifying the cross feed screw, I replaced the acme thread part on one of them and lock tired and cross pinned the new acme thread.
the large dial conversion is a very nice addition to these machines and very worthwhile.
07-31-2016, 10:32 AM #405
Router holder for SB 9c
Very simple router motor holder for my 9c.
1/4" Aluminum plate with wooden blocks to fit the motor. Had to angle the motor to get to the center-line of this project, but most of the time I would have a second block beneath the front of the motor.
12-13-2016, 03:46 PM #406
12-13-2016, 03:55 PM #407
03-28-2017, 02:53 PM #408
03-28-2017, 03:28 PM #409
How did you cut the slot? It looks real clean.
03-28-2017, 04:39 PM #410
I used a small slitting saw I bought from Drills & Cutters. Made a mandrel and cut it in 2 passes, .050" on the 1st followed by a .040" pass to finish it.
04-21-2017, 08:54 PM #411
Well, I took a You Tube video's advice, and built a spindle nose protector for the lathe from a 1 1/2-8 nut I picked up at the local sheet metal shop (Fazzios in Glassboro, NJ)... I was not sure how it would go, but, after 3 hours(!) I had what I wanted- and it came out a little better than I thought it had: I was afraid I would have an exposed thread or two sticking out- that I had made it too short. Actually, it is dead flush with the end of the threads on the spindle! I did mess up with the locating of my pin-wrench holes: they are not all at quite the same distance form the edge, but at least they are all just about where they should be around the circumference. First pic is of the remaining nut material after I finished making the piece... I didn't get a "Before" pic...
I also took a few (lousy) photos of my nice detent plate for the 10L quick change reversing gear lever I put in last week...(Thanks again to FTF Engineering for the concept, and WJ Birmingham for the excellent cut plate!) You can see the trimmed down bolt I used- All fits nicely, and works quite well. You may notice a few staking marks above the upper hole: I made it just a hair high, and those were to distort the top of the hole downwards to move the pin: this takes some unnecessary gear noise out!(although I will probably pull it & then drill & tap a stop pad set screw into it from the top- that will make it a permanent fix.) Right now, in forward, I get a little gear noise which goes away if I rest my fingers on the pin knob...
And my last pic is (another lousy one) of my facing bit- one of the first ones I cut for myself! I'm really quite tickled with how well it works! And all the machining on the spindle nose protector was done with another bit I cut. (I'm just so damn proud of myself )