What's new
What's new

What's a good 5C collet OEM? Would prefer a made in America product

xplodee

Hot Rolled
Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Location
Allentown, PA
Hi All-

As the title says, what's a good company to buy a 5C collet set from for my 10L? Would like a made in america product. I'm looking for new equipment, not used.

Thank you!
 
Whoa. No, unfortunately my pockets aren't that deep. I suppose I'll accept an import solution so long as it's a quality product with good QC.
 
Why not just settle with looking for NOS?

I got almost a full set of 5C's, from a PM member that are in nice shape for not a whole lot.
 
Lyndex is good

All of my collets are either Hardinge or Lyndex (not Lindex).

Lyndex collets are made in Japan, and are quite good.

- Leigh
 
Hardinge collets seem to be the most consistent in terms of quality. If you are patient and watch ebay, you could score a pretty complete set x64-th's for several hundred $$ +.

That said, if you (or anyone else) decides they'd go w/ Lyndex, I have a set of eight 5C collets for sale for a fraction of new cost. Reply in the For Sale thread (linked below), if you or anyone else has an interest.

8 pc 5C Collet Lot: 7 Lyndex & 1 Hardinge on PM Forum

Mark
 
Hardinge v Lyndex

I have both,I will buy only Hardinge in the future, It is not only how true they run or how well they grip. They need to release as well, and Hardinge collets do so.
 
Thanks for all the info. We use Hardinge collets at work. I never realized that not all collets are created equal in terms of squeeze/release.

If I purchase a set in 32nds, is it possible to later buy the other half of the set to complete it? Or do I have to buy in 64ths from the beginning?
 
Whoa. No, unfortunately my pockets aren't that deep. I suppose I'll accept an import solution so long as it's a quality product with good QC.

Yeah, you want good quality made in America collets but don't want to pay what they cost...who would have figured that.

I like the price on those maritool collets. Will have to research if they are made in the USA.

No, I don't believe they are. Their ER collets are made in Taiwan, so I would be surprised if their 5C collets were not made the same. Not saying they are bad, just that you were the one stating you wanted American made collets. Everyone wants American collets at import prices.

You might consider buying some used collets if you can find some decent ones. Otherwise you probably won't like the price of new, unless you get import.

As others have pointed out, the Hardinge collets are pre-sprung and that's really nice as they open up when you loosen them. The Lynden are not. Halcohead has pointed this out in the past in several different threads. That may or may not be important to you.
 
Yeah, you want good quality made in America collets but don't want to pay what they cost...who would have figured that.



No, I don't believe they are. Their ER collets are made in Taiwan, so I would be surprised if their 5C collets were not made the same. Not saying they are bad, just that you were the one stating you wanted American made collets. Everyone wants American collets at import prices.

You might consider buying some used collets if you can find some decent ones. Otherwise you probably won't like the price of new, unless you get import.

As others have pointed out, the Hardinge collets are pre-sprung and that's really nice as they open up when you loosen them. The Lynden are not. Halcohead has pointed this out in the past in several different threads. That may or may not be important to you.

Appreciate the advice. You've got a point about American made at import prices. I don't mean to come across like that, I just wasn't ready for the differences in collet pricing. I'm invested in other American tooling like Aloris, even Baldor motors, etc. Seems used may be my best bet until I can pony up the change.

I'll likely buy a few lesser collets to try out against the Hardinge collets we have at work, I never expected there to be a difference in releasing the part, just figured the imports wouldn't be as precise.

Thanks all for the advice!
 
Purchase a set of new from hardinge, by 16ths.

Fill in the 32nds with used ones. Periodically replace those
with new from hardinge, a few at a time.
 
Appreciate the advice. You've got a point about American made at import prices. I don't mean to come across like that, I just wasn't ready for the differences in collet pricing. I'm invested in other American tooling like Aloris, even Baldor motors, etc. Seems used may be my best bet until I can pony up the change.

I can appreciate that, and in fact like to buy similar type tooling myself. It really depends on how many collets you plan to buy, as an entire set gets pricey. I find that having a full set on the mill is more useful for me, but I have a full set of Hardinge collets for my lathe (actually Rivett, but they were made by Hardinge), and it does come in handy...but since the size only goes up to about 1-1/8", it is limited on the usability, IMO. More often than not I'm holding stock in the collet on the lathe, but on the mill I'm holding drill bits and end mills and the collets are much more useful for me in that regard. All of our mileage varies and it depends on what you're doing with them. I have a set of ETM ER40 collets that I use on my mills. I like them, but they are ER, not 5C and are not made in America, they are made in Israel.

To answer one of your other questions, if you buy a set of collets in 32nds and want to fill in the sizes later, you will pay the premium to get the 1/64th sizes, IMO. It will be cheaper if you buy an entire set up front, but consider what I stated in the previous paragraph, as I don't think will get the use out of a full set, especially in a home shop.

Normally on the lathe, I find myself turning a similar size, like 5/8" or 9/16", 1/2". Those common sizes are stock sizes I normally use, so having the full set is less useful. Where it is useful is when you're turning odd sizes and need to hold them in a collet, I've had that happen in some cases but to be honest it is the minority of the time I use my lathe. A chuck will always work as well. For a lever collet handle, the common sizes may be more useful...my $0.02.

I'll likely buy a few lesser collets to try out against the Hardinge collets we have at work, I never expected there to be a difference in releasing the part, just figured the imports wouldn't be as precise.

They certainly can, just depends. I would just look for some NOS Hardinge collets in sizes that you need and/or plan to use. Buying a set, especially in 1/64th sizes will get costly. I have a full set of 6R collets in 1/64th sizes that came with my lathe...but I probably wouldn't buy a full set if I didn't get them. OTOH, my ER40 collets gets used all the time and most all of the sizes. Luckily because of the collapsibility on the ER collets you only need 1/32nd sizes. And I originally had a 15 collet set of ETMs, to fill in the missing 1/32nd sizes I didn't have required I paid the premium for those. I got them from Enco on a 30% sale, so that helped. I use them all the time on my mills.

Thanks all for the advice!

No problem, take what I tell you with a grain of salt. I'm not a professional machinist and just do work for myself in my home shop. Still, I like to own and use quality tooling. There is some balance in doing that without spending too much.
 
bumping up my older thread...

If I purchase a used hardinge 5c collet (or set of them), is there any wear aside from cosmetic that I should be aware of that can't be repaired by bluing and stoning/filing? Does the spring action wear over time? If I bought an older set, I'd want to recondition them to like-new condition and want to make sure it would be worth it. Thank you!
 
You can't recondition collets from the kind of wear they expience. Either they are decent as you get them or they're
not.

Wear tends to be: fronts marked up, or the hole in front of the collet worn bell-mouthed or egg-shaped. Very very
rarely will you find ones that were rusted up, those you can de-rust electrolytically but they'll be far less accurate then
inexpensive new ones.

Unless they were *real* cheap, OR you can inspect them in person OR you really trust the seller, it's a crap shoot.

Collets aren't blued, and the wear isn't the sort of high spots on the shanks that would need stoning.
 








 
Back
Top