WTB: Old 1-3/8" -10 faceplate and/or backplate(s)

If there is such a thing out there, I would like to find a nice 8" faceplate with 1-3/8" -10tpi spindle thread ('34 Workshop 9").

If not, a smaller dia. (6" to 7") will do.

Lacking that, an 8" faceplate with a small-enough thread and large enough boss (1" or 1-1/8") that I can bore out and thread to 1-3/8" -10.

I'm also looking for some old 5" or 6" chuck backplates, also threaded 1-3/8" -10, to re-use.

Will pay a fair price plus shipping (to CA), and if necessary, any Paypal fees.

Thanks!
Shaggy

if nothing pops up you might be able to use faceplates for wood lathes and rebore them like you were thinking

plates

You can also use a steel billet with a cast iron slug in it.I have one of those that I can put a 4" chuck on my 13 with.The slug is 2.500 in diameter with a 1 7/8-8 thread in it .The steel ring is press fitted with interference screws.A lot easier to install than the 7 1/2" chuck.

Thanks guys, you've given me some good ideas.

But I still hope something pops up(!)

Shaggy

Shaggy,

The 1 3/8 x 10 face-plates fit the South Bend 9" Model 5 type 405 lathe. (late 1930's) This is the only SB lathe that uses that spindle thread size. As a 405 owner I can say those face-plates are rare. Better to look for a 1" x 10 thread.

Ed S

edkolt said:

Shaggy,

The 1 3/8 x 10 face-plates fit the South Bend 9" Model 5 type 405 lathe. (late 1930's) This is the only SB lathe that uses that spindle thread size. As a 405 owner I can say those face-plates are rare. Better to look for a 1" x 10 thread.

Ed S

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I'm beginning to find that out, Ed!

Yes, I'm on the lookout for 1" and 1-1/8" 'blanks' as well, but can only seem to find woodworking faceplates (too lightweight) or pre-drilled 4-hole backplates, and all with holes too close to the edge to allow the reduction in OD that I will need to do.
Something'll turn up, no doubt after I've settled on a compromise.

Where did all the SB '34 parts go, anyway? You know, 1934 wasn't all that long ago, they must be somewhere!

Shaggy

I have that size and pitch of thread in a 12 inch diameter faceplate.Would anyone know which lathe it might fit?

Lester Bowman said:

I have that size and pitch of thread in a 12 inch diameter faceplate.Would anyone know which lathe it might fit?

Click to expand...

It would have to be off an old wood lathe, I'd think. Or maybe an old gap-bed metal lathe.

Shag

plates

Just stumbled across a drawing for making 405 and 8"junior plates.Its in the yahoo southbendlathe9 group in the photo section.

Shaggy,

That was during the depression, I bet not to many lathes were sold then.

Ed S

k3vyl said:

Just stumbled across a drawing for making 405 and 8"junior plates.Its in the yahoo southbendlathe9 group in the photo section.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll check it out.

Shaggy

edkolt said:

Shaggy,

That was during the depression, I bet not to many lathes were sold then.

Ed S

Click to expand...

Yeah, I forgot about that

It's amazing they sold any home workshop-type lathes at all during that time.

edkolt said:

Shaggy,

The 1 3/8 x 10 face-plates fit the South Bend 9" Model 5 type 405 lathe. (late 1930's) This is the only SB lathe that uses that spindle thread size. As a 405 owner I can say those face-plates are rare. Better to look for a 1" x 10 thread.

Ed S

Click to expand...

Woooo Hooo! And the info found so QUICKLY!!!

I am at the Cabin Fever Expo at York, PA. I bought a lathe for $25. Some "interior decorators" had bought the lathe at auction for $230, but all they wanted was the legs. Gonna make a table to sell to yuppies. I offered $25, and they said yes.

I'll need some info, or reference to a URL. What gears are in the change gear set? What are the spindle and headstock tapers? Any diagrams on the gearing setup?

I bought a chuck, a chuck backplate, and a lathe backplate, but none in 1-3/8x10. I'm going to braze in mild steel slugs and carve new threads.

Lots of work ahead on this. Must weld up new legs out of 2x2 square stock, then clean, clean, clean.

Did this lathe have cast in markings I could look for?

The model 5 lathes (405 being one of them) will have obvious differences in the headstock, in particular it has top oilers and no reverse tumbler. The gearing was similar to later 9 inch model C machines, but it uses a loose gear on a post that slides into the left end of the headstock for reverse. The gears were 20DP, not 18DP like later 9" machines. If it were mine, I would swap the spindle with a later 9" spindle, others here have done it.

allan

Look for the serial number on top of the bed where the tail stock sits.

Here is some info.

tail stock is #2 Morris Taper. head stock is near to a #2 so SB supplied an adaptor to make it a true #2


There are five ways to tell if you have a Model 5 type 405 lathe. These specs are specific to the 405 only. The 05 is the Model … the 4 in front is the motor mount.

1. The most obvious is the tail stock. It has an open area in the base so you can see through it. You can tighten it down for either front or back.
2. It has a left hand lead screw
3. The change gear are 20dp with a 5/8 bore (These are a special gear and not found on other lathes)
4. The spindle nose is 1 3/8 x 10 TPI

5. It has no reverse threading lever, you have add a reverse gear at the top of the gear train

The 405 is unique and not many parts are interchangeable with other SB lathes.

Here is all the info you need on the 405:

South Bend Model 5, 205, 405 & Type 15 lathes

Ed S

Hello Practical Machinist Community;

Reaching out to any and all that could help. I’m new in lathe ownership and purchased recently a South Bend 9-inch “Workshop” lathe. South Bend Serial number Card I purchased (60,053) has it as a Catalog #5-YB sold June 28, 1935.
HeadStock = 15. Tailstock = 7. R.P. Gear = M20.

I have used it to make basic bits out of round stock, etc….and was set to start the rebuild of a V6 engine out of my Fiat Dino. Where-by I obtained a 3.5 inch alloy round bar to make a liner puller tool so I can extract the liners to get them off to England for sizing and for replicating a set. Thursday evening after work, all set to mount the piece and start I discovered the jaws are not reversible. Two nights of internet searching I am unable to find bigger chuck with self centering and reversible jaws to mate up to the spindle on this South Bend (405). I am years away from having the skill (and tooling) to make up a new back-plate, etc…to adapt for a new chuck as described.

Could someone in the group advise if there is a way to swap to a 1-1/2”-8tpi spindle that could open more options on chuck sizes ? Or other method or path that I could take to meet my goal ?

Below is the Spindle details my South Bend currently has.

Spindle Hole = ¾”
Rear Spindle Bearing = 1-3/8” dia
Front Bearing = 1-13/16” dia
Hardened steel thrust collar against rear bearing
Take-up nut for end adjustment
Spindle nose = 1-3/8” 10tpi U.S.F.
Tapered hole in spindle = No. 3 Morse Taper
Reducing sleeve in spindle center = No. 2 Morse Taper


Thanks - Rick

Rick,
If you can grab a backplate blank in the chuck you have, cheat. You can rough the threads in with an internal threading tool - can be a piece of HSS in a cheap RDX boring bar - then use a tap to finish them. They are relatively inexpensive from Victor Machinery Exchange - 90 clams. Consider it an investment, you'll use it again. You'll still need to turn the spindle register diameter fairly accurately, but that is plain boring.
Don't rule out a 4 jaw chuck either. Once you get the hang of it, you can center stuff pretty quickly using an indicator, and get as close as you like.

Need Help to upgrade Workshop 405 South Bend to later spindle for later chuck options

Thanks Rudd for the reply and advice.
I spent some time looking up researching the terms in your advice but truthfully I'm really a novice at operating this lathe anywhere near its full potential and with minimal tooling and experience I feel I would not be able to pull it off. I’ve been searching the site and see a Dennis Turk made 1-3/8-10 back plates and read thru the 2010 threads as they counted down to when the last one was sold. Even with that I am studying his drawing on how I would accomplish following his direction to fit his plate if I could have bought one. Then researching how I would mount a 4 jaw chuck of choice to a blank, etc… Hence I was looking at one poster (Shaggy) that swapped the spindle to a later 1-1/2-8tpi version which I was leaning more toward as maybe something I could handle. Even taking this route I don’t know what other hurdles I might encounter once I get the spindle installed, or if it would just be a matter of just mounting a new 1-1/2-8 chuck and off I go.
I haven’t found any later progress updates from user Shaggy on his conversion since the 2010 postings.
Again, I’m at a disadvantage experience wise but am trying to learn this aspect of a chuck upgrade for this lathe at an accelerated rate while I have the motor work on hold.

Background on this lathe & cost:
Purchased for $690. (included KDK holder with 5 tool attachments, #33 Jacobs MT-2 inscribed “PROP SHOP”, and various supplies of cutting bits, etc…
Driving fee to seller to take lathe to Oakland docs. $200.
Over water shipping to Hawaii $134.
Later changed to a 3PH/VFD - $300.
Attached is picture from seller before I purchased it and a shot taken by him when he dropped it off at the shipping docs.
I later purchased the index card for this lathe from South Bend to reference model, etc… for parts ordering and later realized (GUESSING) that the scribe on the drill chuck and lathe was from Disney’s shop which would have been right around the time he would have been ramping up to support his first full length animation movie Snow White.
The ‘Jobber’ Eccles & Davies Machinery that sold the lathe was roughly 9-10 miles down the road from the Disney studio.View attachment 212182View attachment 212183View attachment 212184View attachment 212185View attachment 212186