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Thread: Monarch 12CK

  1. #1
    robdiesel.707 is offline Plastic
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    Default Monarch 12CK

    I just picked up a Monarch 12CK engine lathe off Craigslist for $600.00. The control handles are broken, but all there. The ways, stained a bit, but look really great, no damage. On the tailstock end of the ways there is an inspection mark with U.S.Navy insignia and BRV on a couple of name plates on the machine. Can anyone tell me what kind of ship it was on? Also the chuck system looks to be a D-1-6 but I'm not sure. The lathe will be the most modern lathe I own thus far. Looks to have a #3 Morse Taper in the tailstock and a #4 M.T. in the headstock. The swing is 14.5 and 54" between centers. I was told the handels were broke to demil it. Any input would be great. Thanks, Mike

  2. #2
    MichaelP is online now Titanium
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    If everything works fine, you've got a bargain. Replacing or repairing handles is not a problem. Check lubrication and enjoy your new lathe.

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    TDegenhart is online now Titanium
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    Headstock is D1-6, tailstock is #4 MT. I also have 12CK made in 1944,

    Tom

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    M. Moore's Avatar
    M. Moore is offline Stainless
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    Pics pics pics, we like pics on this site. No pics no boast.

    The normal demil program is to leave it outside until it becomes a big rusty lump, unusable to anyone. Those handles were broken by mistake.

    Michael

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    beckley23 is offline Titanium
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    On my 12"CK the spindle is D1-6, the internal taper is #12 Jarno, and the tailstock has a #3 Morse taper.
    You should check out the Monarch forum.
    Harry

  6. #6
    robdiesel.707 is offline Plastic
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    Default monarch 12ck

    Thank you for the info, what is a #12 jarno taper?

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    MichaelP is online now Titanium
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  8. #8
    robdiesel.707 is offline Plastic
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    Default monarch 12ck

    Thank you Plastic, I looked up the #12 Jarno in my machinery/machinist handbook. I read the exerpt on why and what it is used on. I will make the center for it and probably use the taper attachment that is on the Monarch to do it.

  9. #9
    TDegenhart is online now Titanium
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    Quote Originally Posted by robdiesel.707 View Post
    Thank you Plastic, I looked up the #12 Jarno in my machinery/machinist handbook. I read the exerpt on why and what it is used on. I will make the center for it and probably use the taper attachment that is on the Monarch to do it.
    I am not familiar with all the variations that Monarch offered or built, but a 12CK with a #3 morse tailstock seems a bit spacial. When I made an adapter for my 12CK, I found it uses a modified morse. Before making an adapter, measure as best you can. You can also call Monarch Lathes, 937-492-4111, ask to speak to a technician. Have your serial number, year built, all the other good stuff. He will probably be able to retrieve the drawings for that machine and tell you what you have.

    Tom

  10. #10
    robdiesel.707 is offline Plastic
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    I've got the lathe home and unloaded. It is wired 220 3 ph, a little rust in the gear box, I've got diesel in it overnite then will drain and install ATF fluid and let it sit in there till ready for use. What type of oil do I need to run in it? I have taken off the broken handles to repair, it looks to be a good lathe. I will call Monarch with the # you provided. It came with a 3 jaw Union chuck dated 11-3-54 but is missing the jaws, I'd like to find a set. I bought an old backing plate D-1-6, I have a 4 jaw old Cushman 12" I want to use. Thought about making an adapter from the D-1-6 plate to use the threaded back on the chuck's I have so I could use them on either lathe. The chuck's came with an old Carrol & Jamison I took as payment on a job. I plan on using it to weld drivelines. I hate to even think of using a lathe for welding, no matter how old, it's still a machine tool. I will cover the ways ect with leather. Do you have any manual's with yours? I see copies of the parts manual on E-Bay for $50 for 8 pages. Kinda spendy.

  11. #11
    TDegenhart is online now Titanium
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    You will probably find the 12" chuck is too big. I had one on mine when I got it, problem was that in order to chuck anything of size caused the jaw extensions to hit the bedways. I went to an 8" but a 10" would fit comfortably.

    Oil called for is Mobil Vactra oil heavy medium. I have been using ISO 68 wayoil with good results.

    When I bought my manual a year ago, the cost from Monarch was $75 which got me an operator's manual, lubrication instructions and a parts manual. The CK is not included but the 60/61 is close enough for most purposes.

    Tom

  12. #12
    robdiesel.707 is offline Plastic
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    Default monarch 12CK

    Thank you Tom, the diesel did the trick of breaking down the rust, filled it with motor oil and run it for about 5 min then let stand for another week. Tonite I drained out that oil and rinsed with diesel, then blew it all out and now I have a mix of atf and motor oil I will run it unloaded for awhile then I will drain it and put the oil thats recomended in it. The compound was froze but got it freed up and I got the crossfeed screw all freed up. Allot more elbow grease and put it back together and I should be cutting. The motor is in great condition and also the clutch. In it's day it was a very top of the line I'm sure. I thought about the chuck size and woundered if I would run into the jaw issiue. I do have a 10" 4 jaw I can use, I haven't cut the backing plate yet, waiting to get the lathe ready. I'll cut the backing plate on the lathe it's going to fit. The apron looks to be pressure lubed, is that the case? There are lube lines under the crossfeed saddle that look to be fed by the apron. Thank you, Mike

  13. #13
    TDegenhart is online now Titanium
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    Yes, the apron and cross slide are lubricated by a pump located on the bottom lift of the apron. If you look closely, you will see four cap screws on the side that hold the pump and housing the apron. The manual recommends draining the oil and cleaning the oil pump filter periodically. To take the filter off and clean, remove the snap ring on the bottom of the pump, and remove the screen and the two filters. After you reassemble the pump, check that when you move the carriage back and forth, that oil appears on the bed ways and the cross slide ways. The compound is not oiled by this system. The tail stock ways are lubricated by pumping oil into the hole at the bottom right of the base. There is an absorbent pad in the base that feeds oil to the left and right ways.

    Tom

  14. #14
    beckley23 is offline Titanium
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    If you haven't pulled the headstock cover, I recommend that you do so. There are a couple of pockets in the bottom of the headstock that oil will not drain from, and you should get it out, before filling with ISO 68 oil. You can use a hydraulic oil here. While you have the cover off check the meter units on the manifold to make sure they're working. If not, replace with new ones. Monarch is a good source for these, but they do have a minimum order. Also check out the oil pump, it is mounted on the inside front near the bull gear. It's not easy to get out, but it will come out.
    Make sure the lube pump in the apron is working, you should see oil pooling on the bed ways and the cross slide ways, and maybe some seepage around the cross feed dial.If you don't see the pooling, then there are acouple of possibilities, none of them pleasant. The pump in the apron may not be functioning, because of clogged filter, or it could be worn out, and/or the meter units under the saddle bridge are bad, and/or the tubing feeding the destination points is bad.
    To get an idea of what you are up against, read the "Another New Toy" sticky in the Monarch forum.
    BTW, I also suggest that you start posting this in the Monarch forum, there are a lot good people there that mat not check this forum very much.
    Harry

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