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NEW MADE IN USA er COLLET BLOCKS

WILLEO6709

Diamond
Joined
Nov 6, 2001
Location
WAPELLO, IA USA
I got tired of all the ER collet blocks out there being cheap junk from some country I never heard of and without a back stop. I mean who wants an ER top loading collet block without a way to backstop it......if you are doing more that one part its so much faster.

These are all 2 inch square and 2 inch hex. The ER32's have about a .938 through hole, the er40's have a 1.220 through hole. The ER32's use a round stop disc, the ER40's use a rectangular stop plate due to the larger bore. Right not the stop screw is tapped 1/2-13. These are made of P-20 prehard, Rc 28-32. These were turned and rough milled on an Okuma LB3000EXII-MYW Turning center, then ground to size.


Pricing depends on if you want the nut. Hex and square same price.
ER 32 hex or square $ 175.00 ground with the nut
$ $140.00 ground without the nut
$100.00 each " you grind"


ER 40 hex or square $ 200.00 ground with the nut
$ $165.00 ground without the nut
$120.00 each " you grind"

Buy a pair and save $20.00 on the total.
ships from Wapello, IA 52653 flat rate $12.50 per order.

Other sizes may be available in the future depending on requests.
ER40C.jpg
ER40B.jpg
ER40A.jpg
ER32UNGROUND.jpg
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Nice job, L! And priced well, too. You should have no lack of purchases on those.
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Thats one request for ER20, 1 for 2J. I also have a 2 inch 5c design with a recessed nut so it can be stood vertically... made one as an apprentice 25 years ago.... if there is any interest.

Bill, we'll get those out to you next week.
 
Thats one request for ER20, 1 for 2J. I also have a 2 inch 5c design with a recessed nut so it can be stood vertically... made one as an apprentice 25 years ago.... if there is any interest.

Bill, we'll get those out to you next week.

Thanks, Leo, no rush atall.
 
Nice looking job!

I also need 2J size, I was planning on making some and extras for sale-but if you're going to do them, no sense duplicating effort as I haven't started yet. They do need to be harder material, at least 55 rockwell "C". For fixtures I've built, I've found 28-32 dings up pretty easy when you are clamping them in milling vises. How I use collet blocks is I'm constantly moving them between operations, so even if you are really careful, little chips wreak havoc after awhile on the softer material.

Also, what kind of tolerance are you holding on runout/parallelism to the outside surfaces on the ground ones?
 
My recommendation for a hardness increase would be nitriding after grind. I have not done these due to the fact right now they can be further modified if need be. Tapped holes, keys at funky angles, etc. I see them as a modular fixture component.

Blocks are ground less than .001 total travel centrality and parallelism .0006 per inch.
 
My recommendation for a hardness increase would be nitriding after grind. I have not done these due to the fact right now they can be further modified if need be. Tapped holes, keys at funky angles, etc. I see them as a modular fixture component.

Blocks are ground less than .001 total travel centrality and parallelism .0006 per inch.

I'm au fait with all that.

Presuming it helps toward the critical mass of orders that encourages production of a batch of 2J, I'm happy to take one Hex, one Square of 2J as well.

5C? Already a crowded market, AFAICS, so I shall leave that to others.
 
Your older 5C version would be of interest. Do you have specs on them as requested in post #7? Price/availability/photographs would be useful.

-Marty-

for those interested in a deluxe 5C model - I need to redesign the wrench and nut- but I have never seen one in commerce like this one... need to figure a price when I finish the nut/ wrench redesign. I am picturing the 2j a scaled up 5c- like product.
5csqcolletblock1.jpg
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for those interested in a deluxe 5C model - I need to redesign the wrench and nut- but I have never seen one in commerce like this one... need to figure a price when I finish the nut/ wrench redesign. I am picturing the 2j a scaled up 5c- like product.
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So flash us some ass, here.

;)

What's the detailing on that "stop" design you spoke of as being different from vanilla goods from others?
 
What's the detailing on that "stop" design you spoke of as being different from vanilla goods from others?

on my er collet blocks---- Its 2 inch square so its easy to find center of it. The math is just easy. I have a stop disc/ plate in the photos. If you buy a cat40/cat50/ BT cnc tool holder- they all have a backstop screw. A. when changing tools if you use the same make model shape etc. your tool length is pretty close. B your tool does not push back in the collet and change length ( I for some reason have more trouble pushing through ER collets than TG100 but thats another story), and C. - its removable- so if you don't need it or its in the way you remove it. But if you need it, you can remove a part, reinstall the next one and have an idea you are pretty close to where you were. Its your call if you verify every load but you'll know when you need to based on what you are making.

On everything else I see in commerse its either a blind cup or a through hole with no provision for a backstop. The back stop is easily fabricated if you have need of something special ( I have used mine making parts with oriented features on both ends of a part before I had a subspindle lathe) you can make something up to orient your part for the next op, either radially in the collet or whatever you need. Basically its a er collet block patterned more after a CNC rotating toolholder

The ends are ground you can set it up vertically for putting a hole right down the axis ( there is use for this, sometimes there is a reason you can't put it back in a lathe), or if you need an off center feature parrallel to center axis and no live tool lathe.

I have also made ER collet modular cups that I mounted in 6 inch plates for better rigidity in a 6 inch vise on CNC- harder to tip them but only really worth a hoot for standing something vertically for an operation. I only made those ER40 but if there is interest I'll put up some pics. Mine are all ugly from YEARS of use. They all paid back many times their cost to manufacture.

The 5c design- its a 2 inch square- easy to find center compared to the 1-3/4 commercial blocks. It has a recessed nut so you can stand it on end. Screws for the drive dog at both 90 and 45 degrees, various makers of shape collets( hex square, etc) orient the dog slot in different places. I don't recall what the high tapped hole was for, but the original designer ( Don Landes, my original instructor, taught at a junior college many years in Iowa) had it there,, I can't recall why. Originally it had a pin spanner nut but it needs more of a notch spanner nut, which I am designing this week.

I have some of the commercial off shore 1-3/4 blocks that the collet sticks out the end of, can't be stood axially, and basically I have to pick up on the part each rotation. It annoys me every time I use them. The only good part is you can use a pipe wrench to tighten them, but pipe is about all they are good for sometimes.


As to how hard to make them- The first ones I had some P20 laying by the lathe leftover. It turns nice and is pretty tough. If you want them harder nitride is my preference. There is a nitride vendor near me that has a " black oxide nitride" process I highly recomend. It beats the purple color you sometimes get and saves another coloring op. 25 years ago I made my original 5c block from O1- and for a block that will never be modified- thats a great choice ( I would probabaly use A2 today).

I will cut up ER collet blocks/ cups/ mounts into whatever I need at the time and find value in having them able to be modified in my shop. Bottom line I will sell what people want to buy. If you want it different ask. At least I tell you what it is starting out, not a guess like the offshore products.

I Just put some thought into what would make an improved, sale-able , deluxe collet block with broad application, a widely used collet ( my bet is ER is more widely utilized than any other in professional shops today), and quality workmanship. If you have a feature you would like to see ask me.
 
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I would like you to show us some examples of what these collet blocks are used for. I searched the internet, but came up with no examples. My 40 plus years as a machinist have not come up with need for these. I realize that the square blocks are meant to be used in a vise on a milling machine, and the hex blocks are to be used in a 3 or 6 jaw chuck in a lathe. Therefore some second operation must be accomplished on a workpiece held a ER collet, but what second operations? Some examples, and illustrations, please!
 
Here, let us Google that for you... Tedious, but simplified to a low-bar, IQ / "fog-index" wise..

How to use Collet blocks - YouTube

40 plus years, and this is NEW?

YGTBSFM!

I appreciate your kind reply of submission of an example that I requested. However your addition of snarky comments was not required. But I understand that you have a mental disability that causes you to build up your ego by diminishing someone else's reputation at every opportunity.
 
I would like you to show us some examples of what these collet blocks are used for. I searched the internet, but came up with no examples. My 40 plus years as a machinist have not come up with need for these. I realize that the square blocks are meant to be used in a vise on a milling machine, and the hex blocks are to be used in a 3 or 6 jaw chuck in a lathe. Therefore some second operation must be accomplished on a workpiece held a ER collet, but what second operations? Some examples, and illustrations, please!

I have used the Hex blocks in a VISE on a MILLING MACHINE to apply hexagonal
features to said work piece held in said collet block.
 








 
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