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want to buy Advanced Engineering Plastic Temperatures Greater than 425f

chrisg9

Plastic
Joined
Jan 28, 2018
Hello,

So i am looking at making a small part for a Stratasys FDM 2000 mill but am having issues finding a reasonable way to buy the material i need. (200$ for a 1ft bar or 400$ for a plate)
Willing to buy scraps or drops of the following materials Torlon, Vespel, Celazole PBI, Fluorosint MT-01 (if you got a material i didnt mention but can withstand 425F and be machined please let me know)

the 2 parts i need to make are 0.75 diameter and 0.5in thick

if you have any round or plate that may just be sitting or going into a bin i would love to buy it off you.

i only need enough material to build a min of 2 but would like to build about 5

part.jpg

I am sorry if this is in the wrong section i did not see a material section.
 
might look into A.L. Hyde ultem 1000 polyetherimide. 970F flash ignition temp.

cool thing about that is its translucent, and very hard and machinable, two differences over "teflon"
 
Im not sure if PEEK would be able to handle 5x cycles a day at 500F and hopefully last a few years.
The Vespel are stock and the machine lasted what i think to be the entire life and this machine is very old.
But i am not a material expert. if someone with more knowledge has any info i would love to use peek i can pick up what i need for 40$
I just dont want to do it then a year or so later be back in the same boat of this part failing,
 
hollow cylinder/tube

12.5 in high wall thickness 0.97" id 2.75"
od 4.6"

I do not know chemical makeup I did apply 475 deg Centigrade solder iron with
minor indentation and no smoke surplus from us navy research lab

$100 plus actual shipping
 

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hollow cylinder/tube

12.5 in high wall thickness 0.97" id 2.75"
od 4.6"

I do not know chemical makeup I did apply 475 deg Centigrade solder iron with
minor indentation and no smoke surplus from us navy research lab

$100 plus actual shipping

sounds good as material strength but i cant use a tube. the part i need to make could be done from rod or sheet or plate.
I attached an image of the part in my opening post.
 
Im not sure if PEEK would be able to handle 5x cycles a day at 500F and hopefully last a few years.
The Vespel are stock and the machine lasted what i think to be the entire life and this machine is very old.
But i am not a material expert. if someone with more knowledge has any info i would love to use peek i can pick up what i need for 40$
I just dont want to do it then a year or so later be back in the same boat of this part failing,

I'd call the material manufacturer. Their application engineers should be able to answer that question.
 
Delrin definitely won't work. Heat deflection temp for unfilled PEEK is 320 deg f, so that wont work. 30% glass filled ot carbon filled is 600 deg f, so those would work. I may have a piece of Torlon- will check later. Dan
 
Would Delrin work?
A member posted some 2" x 1" round drops here:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ck-delrin-acetal-trepan-drops-1-thick-345220/
Seems like a good deal if size is something you can deal with.
CWC(4)

the temp on delrin is to low 350F but might take a look at that for another project
Found out the that the PTFE and PEEK would last only for a short time according t0 a material engineer and i will be pushing torlon but it should last a long enough.

Was able to pick up a 3/4in D 3in L rod of torlon for 50$

so if someone has any more tho i would like a few extra to make and give back to the people helping me rebuild the machine.

Also if any one has Vespel i would love to buy.
 
You might also look at using a machinable ceramic, McM has a number of choices in that class, all of them will be fine at the temperatures you're working in. Mechanically they'll be much more stable than any polymer, but could be fractured if too much load is put on them.
 
i made a reply before but seems to not be here.

Any advice on working with torlon?

should i stick with carbide or ground HSS?


Well i got some torlon being delivered tomorrow. a local place called alro gave me a good deal.
But if someone has more torlon or any spare vespel i would still love to buy.
I want to make enough of these that any one with an old FDM 1600,2000 does not have to worry and the material i got is only enough to maybe make 6.

The ceramic sounds interesting but i have never used it and the whole must be baked after machining then the shrinkage is something that i have never dealt with.
 
Very sharp (honed or lapped) carbide is best for finishing and sharp HSS drills will work ok- just don't go nuts on speed. You can rough turn it with a positive rake insert.

I have about 18" of 1" dia Torlon 4203. If you are interested, send me a PM or e-mail at dmcgearsATyahooDOTcom.

Dan
 
The ceramic sounds interesting but i have never used it and the whole must be baked after machining then the shrinkage is something that i have never dealt with.

The ceramics I'm referring to are not fired after machining, but are ready to cut/use: McMaster-Carr They have different mechanical properties, the stronger ones tend to be more expensive, but the parts you're describing are reasonably small and will certainly cost less than Vespel (which I've used also). Some are harder/more abrasive than others, you can usually drill with HHS, but I prefer to use cobalt or carbide as much as possible.

I have worked with "green" (unfired) Al2O3 alumina preforms, the shrink factor was roughly 20% IIRC.
 
Very sharp (honed or lapped) carbide is best for finishing and sharp HSS drills will work ok- just don't go nuts on speed. You can rough turn it with a positive rake insert.

I have about 18" of 1" dia Torlon 4203. If you are interested, send me a PM or e-mail at dmcgearsATyahooDOTcom.

Dan

Pm sent very interested in these.
Also if you have any stock of around 1/4 i could use some of that to for a part that just broke.......
 
The ceramics I'm referring to are not fired after machining, but are ready to cut/use: McMaster-Carr They have different mechanical properties, the stronger ones tend to be more expensive, but the parts you're describing are reasonably small and will certainly cost less than Vespel (which I've used also). Some are harder/more abrasive than others, you can usually drill with HHS, but I prefer to use cobalt or carbide as much as possible.

I have worked with "green" (unfired) Al2O3 alumina preforms, the shrink factor was roughly 20% IIRC.

Machinable ceramic often called "Macor" and can easily be cut with water as the cutting fluid.

Macor - Wikipedia
 








 
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