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2.2 kw VFD for a 1.5 HP motor

it will go bang.

and then you will wish you bought a good one.


btw, your link is dead.
but any 2.2Kw vfd should run a 1.5hp motor. its hard to know if they mean 2.2kw as in kva, or kw at the motorshaft minus inefficiency.

figure 1kw per hp minimum.
 
Have fun reading it. One quote is:

The chemical condenser of frequency converter may cause explosion when be burned. Please treat it well.

Another quote I find amusing:

The Frequency Converter should not be used with the equipments , such as Nuclear-powered control equipments, Space navigation equipments, Traffic equipments, Security equipments, Weapons equipments, and so on, which may cause casualty accident because of the faults of the frequency converter . Please look into our company in advance for the special usage of frequency converter .
 
Hmmmmm. Looks familiar...

Sometimes the least expensive items have the highest cost.
 
Hmmmmm. Looks familiar...

Sometimes the least expensive items have the highest cost.

Dunno. Seems they boast legendary reliability as to the capability to cause 'casualty accidents'.

No argument from this quarter. Must be a ton of 'em abandoned under seating at RNC and DNC convention halls.
 
Yet another renamed Huanyang drive with all reference to the original brand name removed, likely out of embarrassment for their reputation for self immolation...
 
this is listed as something you MUST do:

"Customers must install no-fuse or leakage circuit-breaker to protect the cicuit and avoid the broden the scope of accident because of fault of fault of product. "

"Must install no-fuse"? Presumably "must install fuse" is the correct reading, but it could be interpreted to mean NOT to install a fuse. The manual is so full of these, that I would like somehow to "un-read" it.

There is some question as to whether the unreliability of these VFDs is electronic in origin, or communicative in origin. Probably both, but the manual is clearly not helping.
 
this is listed as something you MUST do:

"Customers must install no-fuse or leakage circuit-breaker to protect the cicuit and avoid the broden the scope of accident because of fault of fault of product. "

"Must install no-fuse"? Presumably "must install fuse" is the correct reading, but it could be interpreted to mean NOT to install a fuse.
Correct. For a Huanyang or clone, an 'no' or Normally Open fuse is safest. Cheap, too as ones already blown will suffice.
The manual is so full of these, that I would like somehow to "un-read" it.
Also thoughtfully provided for. 'Round File' it and go have a stiff drink to forget you ever saw it is considered 'un-reading'.

There is some question as to whether the unreliability of these VFDs is electronic in origin, or communicative in origin. Probably both, but the manual is clearly not helping.

Language may be questionable. Less question the 'tronics are shiite. One can see that with a Mark One Eyeball, un-boosted. Just razor-saw or sonic-saw the case open and look. Only a few of the screws can be gotten out. No foul. There's no compelling reason to put one back together. Even if never opened.


Bill
 
Everybody goes on about the unreliability of these VFDs. I wonder what the actual DOA and failure after a reasonable time statistics are. They can't be approaching 100%, or they'd never sell any at all.

Anyone got any actual data?
 
Doesn't matter.

Ask yourself this: "How many times does someone report getting a new ABB, Hitachi, Vacon, etc that is either dead out of box, or, better yet, fails immediately when powered on (with or without light show)?"

How many report that with Huanyang?

Right, it's not really a contest....

Plus, the innards of the Huanyang are not awe-inspiring, at least not in a good way. Not possible the ones I have seen will pass UL. Clearances are way too small, plus there are many other things of lesser visibility. Not to mention that they look put together on the principle of "we don't need no stinkin training"

Build design and quality are somewhere short of 1970's Pioneer receiver. Distinctly NOT industrial.
 
Anyone got any actual data?

"Actual data" . or lack-thereof, is part of the reason some of us are so vehemently opposed to the critters. Basically, it just cannot be had.

There are multiple, parallel channels to market, multiple housings, brandings, and manuals.

There are, originals, their copies, suspected QC fail component parts, QC fail sub-systems, and QC-fail entire finished units. Or worse - QC-PASS - but to silly sloppy standards.

That broad menagerie are then leaked out of many different channels in China into far more channels in the US and elsewhere.

IOW - there is no consistent set of 'innards', makers, wholesalers, distributors, or retailers, and no practical manner to fix "this is wot it is", let alone whom to praise or whom to blame.

"Dice Roll' in short, and with any of them torn down and LOOKED INTO showing marginal design, too many shortcuts, and too much variability in assembly that is sloppy on a good day and actually scary on a bad one.

Despite which - as with those cheap knock-offs of a Bic lighter on the counter at the convenience store - most of them DO work right out of the box. Some DOA or early-fail have even been diagnosed and repaired by their owners. A few have been damaged by carelessness and ALSO repaired by owners

Electrons don't really give a damn about cosmetics, after all. A too-damned-thin PCB trace with a bridge wire buried in enough solder works as well as the thicker PCB cladding or separate tin-clad sheet copper overlay strap that SHOULD have been there.

They look like a VFD. They work more often than not. "Fast" foods can be like that as well. I don't recall a McDonald's alleged-burger ever actually giving me the s***ts, either.

But I sure do work hard to be able to cook at home or take my meals-out in better places with better food.

Same again when better-documented, warranted, and TRACEABLE VFD are in the market for not really a great deal more money.

I didn't choose to put the only Huanyang I ever bought back together after dissecting it. Too scary.

I bought a NEW Weg 2 HP for El Cheapo light motor testing, known backtrail, reputable dealer, Warranty I could trust, manual in genuine English (not that it matters. I can read Brazilian Portuguese. Or technical German).

Also a used Schneider Altivar 71 10 HP for the hard stuff. Built in Indohooliga, but beautiful build quality inside and seriously good component selection that old Altivar 71 has.

Take whatever risk/reward chances on VFD YOU are comfortable with.

You could get lucky.. Or not.

Ether way, you won't really save a lot of money over a Teco, Weg, Hitachi..or whatever other major brand is pricing sharply in any given month.

That's the other part that sets me off. There is such a very small gain - for taking the risk ANYWAY. Sometimes the 'bargain' Huanyang or clone-of is actually MORE expensive than the better-trusted brand.

Go figure.

Bill
 
"Actual data" . or lack-thereof, is part of the reason some of us are so vehemently opposed to the critters. Basically, it just cannot be had.

There are multiple, parallel channels to market, multiple housings, brandings, and manuals.

There are, originals, their copies, suspected QC fail component parts, QC fail sub-systems, and QC-fail entire finished units. Or worse - QC-PASS - but to silly sloppy standards.

That broad menagerie are then leaked out of many different channels in China into far more channels in the US and elsewhere.

IOW - there is no consistent set of 'innards', makers, wholesalers, distributors, or retailers, and no practical manner to fix "this is wot it is", let alone whom to praise or whom to blame.

"Dice Roll' in short, and with any of them torn down and LOOKED INTO showing marginal design, too many shortcuts, and too much variability in assembly that is sloppy on a good day and actually scary on a bad one.

Despite which - as with those cheap knock-offs of a Bic lighter on the counter at the convenience store - most of them DO work right out of the box. Some DOA or early-fail have even been diagnosed and repaired by their owners. A few have been damaged by carelessness and ALSO repaired by owners

Electrons don't really give a damn about cosmetics, after all. A too-damned-thin PCB trace with a bridge wire buried in enough solder works as well as the thicker PCB cladding or separate tin-clad sheet copper overlay strap that SHOULD have been there.

They look like a VFD. They work more often than not. "Fast" foods can be like that as well. I don't recall a McDonald's alleged-burger ever actually giving me the s***ts, either.

But I sure do work hard to be able to cook at home or take my meals-out in better places with better food.

Same again when better-documented, warranted, and TRACEABLE VFD are in the market for not really a great deal more money.

I didn't choose to put the only Huanyang I ever bought back together after dissecting it. Too scary.

I bought a NEW Weg 2 HP for El Cheapo light motor testing, known backtrail, reputable dealer, Warranty I could trust, manual in genuine English (not that it matters. I can read Brazilian Portuguese. Or technical German).

Also a used Schneider Altivar 71 10 HP for the hard stuff. Built in Indohooliga, but beautiful build quality inside and seriously good component selection that old Altivar 71 has.

Take whatever risk/reward chances on VFD YOU are comfortable with.

You could get lucky.. Or not.

Ether way, you won't really save a lot of money over a Teco, Weg, Hitachi..or whatever other major brand is pricing sharply in any given month.

That's the other part that sets me off. There is such a very small gain - for taking the risk ANYWAY. Sometimes the 'bargain' Huanyang or clone-of is actually MORE expensive than the better-trusted brand.

Go figure.

Bill
Chapters like this remind me that I have better things to do, thanks for the constant reminders. :typing:
 
this is listed as something you MUST do:

"Customers must install no-fuse or leakage circuit-breaker to protect the cicuit and avoid the broden the scope of accident because of fault of fault of product. "

"Must install no-fuse"? Presumably "must install fuse" is the correct reading, but it could be interpreted to mean NOT to install a fuse. The manual is so full of these, that I would like somehow to "un-read" it.

There is some question as to whether the unreliability of these VFDs is electronic in origin, or communicative in origin. Probably both, but the manual is clearly not helping.

Not that I want to help them out, but this is a "Chinglish from Ginlish" issue, Chinglish meaning Chinese translated to English, Ginlish being German translated to English.

In German technospeak, what we just call a "Motor Protection Circuit Breaker", meaning basically a thermal-magnetic circuit breaker with an adjustable trip on the thermal element, is often referred to as a "fuseless motor circuit protector" because it does not rely upon fuses in order to attain the short circuit Interrupting Capacity it needs. So when someone in China read the German translation to English, they interpreted the term "fuseless" too literally to mean "no fuse".

This by the way gives us a clue to the origin of this drive in that it likely started out as a small German manufacturer who had their drives made for them in China, then the Chinese factory copied it, used cheaper components and assembly methods, and ships them out the back door as Huanyang and whatever other brand-du-jour they need to use to hide it.
 
If that thing started out as German, it is far from it's origins.

I know of NO self respecting German (is there any other kind?) who would tolerate even the general construction of the "Huanyang-like" units I have seen the innards of. Small company, large company, whatever.

Looks like the case is about all that remains, and that maybe only as a shape......

"Ginlish"? New one on me. Germans who speak English tend to speak better English than many native speakers. My German never gets used, and vocabulary is becoming forgotten. Getting a good translator should be nearly as easy as wandering down to the nearest street corner and loudly inquiring if anyone speaks English..... I suppose technical English might be a little harder, but from my experience, no very much.
 
Good news, bad news, the good news first I got the VFD to work, the bad news is it was with the 3/4hp motor I have for my drill press, not the Bridgeport. I had set the output power to 65%, now the VFD will not let me change it.
Is there a way to check to see if I have a short in my Bridgeport motor?

Mike
 
Shorts to ground are reasonably easy to check, shorted turns are harder.

One "practical"way is to spin up the motor to a reasonable speed, and connect to single phase. Check the current, and the heating. Do this for all combinations of the three motor wires, i.e. X-Y, Y-Z, and Z-X,

Be sure to connect a ground wire to the appropriate terminal on the unit. You can just use a wire to ground, or you can put a light bulb or fuse in series. If the circuit breaker opens, the fuse blows, or the bulb lights, there is a problem.

If no test has a problem, meaning all 3 hot wires draw the same amount, there is no particular current in the ground wire, and no special heating is observed, it's likely to be good.

As for the VFD, if no other way works, see if there is a way to clear all settings back to the factory defaults. Usually there is a sequence of buttons, or holding down certain buttons while the power is turned on, etc.
 
Thanks for the info I will give it a try, this motor is dual voltage it has 9 wires 1 to 7, 2 to 8, 3 to 9 and 4,5,6 to each other and the pairs to line for 220v, and 1,2,3 to line and 4 to 7 5 to 8 and 6 to 9 for 440, if I take one of the pairs and attach a light bulb to it and ground the light should flicker when I spin the motor?

Mike
 
I intended the light to be in the equipment grounding wire to the motor, if used..... just to indicate in a relatively non-damaging way that there is a problem (if there is) which has connected a winding to the case. The light in that case should NOT light. If it did, there would be an indication of a short of a wire to the case somewhere, maybe just a lead, maybe a winding..

If you wire it per instructions for 220, it should operate on 120 sufficiently to show it works.

Not sure what you mean about flickering light.

I intended that the test be using some method to spin the motor relatively quickly (rope start, for instance) and when it is spinning, connect 2 of the three wires to 120V Motor should spin, and there should be no current in ground wire. Note current in the 120V.

Repeat for the other two possible connection combinations. Make sure about the same current is drawn for each connection, and that there is at no time a current in ground.
 








 
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