25hp 3 phase rotary phase converter. phase balancing, and breaker box

I need some help do I run all of power through the RPC or can I run two of the legs from the building power? thanks

You will probably find that you get better results if you post your questions and have pictures that are easy to refer to.

Started to look at your video, but quite frankly I didn't want to sit through 9+ minutes of video with the camera veering around. Maybe I'll give it another look tomorrow if I am not busy.

Gawd lumme Charlie.... I HAVE seen worse kludges, (of course I never have done one myself, you understand) But I think I would have at least put some cardboard between the three "bugs" on the line to what I guess is the oven.

Anyhow.

The standard way to run the PC is to bring 1phase to a 3 phase box on A and C. Take the single phase thru a proper breaker to the PC, bring the manufactured phase up to the B phase of the box, and distribute 3 phase from there. That lets you size the breaker to the PC, and makes all nice and clean.

Your voltage is low, OK. it is usually a few percent lower than the incoming power just due to how a motor works. A manufacturer can change the winding a bit if they want to, using an ordinary motor you cannot.

Yes capacitors will correct that.

The 176V looks to be manufactured to ground, which means nothing much

Caps may be with the converter, or on speciial loads if just that load needs extra.


I think you had other questions but I can't recall them and I'm not gonna sit through the " north Atlantic storm" video again to hear them. Please post.

Please post a pic of the motor plate. If not legible in pic, what "design" (NEMA design) does it say it is?

Also post voltage readings, I don;t remember all of them.

First off, you don't have enough power to bring heat treat to Full capacity if it is 3 phase. 61A+24A.

I'd feed 100A(you're only given it 60) to Rpc panel. Change your light switch to three wire control circuit powering a size 3-4 contactor, then to balance capacitors, then feed a three-phase breaker panel.

Both your natural to generated leg should be up and around the 250-255 volts. They will pull down a bit with load. (Your nominal voltage from generated leg to ground should be 208v. But you'll want to see this around 230 V.) It is more important to measure in three-phase hot leg too hot leg and NOT hot leg to ground. It is OK to reference it just for knowledge.

To be fair to the kludge nature of the thing.... the light switches (!!) "only" start the pony motors....... The breaker starts the idler.

And to be fair about that, if you look 'em up, decent light switches have a rating of close to 1 HP, usually. Not surprising, as they are designed to handle a high inrush tungsten load. But NO, even so I would not suggest using them in the final system.

Your new panel you say you just got, I don't see a ground lug distribution bar anywhere in it. As well I don't see a ground wire anywhere in either box. Is this box directly attached to the meter? Or is it a sub panel? Obviously there is a disconnect somewhere before it, I hope so, as it is pretty dangerous to do a jumper that way. I'm not even sure if your local code would approve that. I know mine would not. I think you need some experienced help. Find a water pipe and ground it.

Edit; pictures taken from video before video was taken down.

That's a pretty scary wiring arrangement you have brewing there.
The new repacement panel your starting from its not installed correctly. It's missing it's grounding and bonding connections. Not a single conduit fitting on anything, including the underground runs. So nothing in your shop is properly grounded and bonded.

That is way more important to your well being, than how to get your equipment connected and running.

Hire or get some assistance from someone who knows what needs to be done to your supply panel before you hurt yourself or burn up your building or equipment.

Lives matter.

SAF