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Assistance wiring Dayton continuous 115 1HP Motor

wulfgarp

Plastic
Joined
Jul 31, 2017
I recently acquired an older Dayton motor with a gear reduction attached to it. It was wired for a boat lift, and my friend removed it without much thought to preserving or reusing the motor. I will attach pictures of the motor control, and motor plate. Welder by trade, and I can replace wires easily, but am not very technically inclined when it comes to this type of work. If I could trace all of the wires back to their original wiring status, I would, but some wires appear to be disconnected or removed entirely, making this impossible based on my technical skill.

Motor Model #: 5K673-H
Continuous, 1725 RPM, 115/230V, 1HP,

Square D Co, Nema size 0, 600 Vac Max, Class 8736, Type S803, Series A, Form S

The motor ran off of 110 before, and I'd like it setup for 110 again now, but if possible would like directions to rewire for 220 down the road as well.

I have traced the wires back to how they were set up originally, but it does not match the motor schematics at all, and would enjoy someones expertise. Thanks in advance for any and all assistance provided. The goal is to eventually have a motor with a long control device lead to use as a small shop hoist. I can replace/experiment as directed. Please note that there are two motor panels included below, but one is not for this motor, but was found to have the same wiring schematic, and easier to read.


1_23_2016_9_07_53_pm.jpgIMG_4390-1.jpgIMG_4391.jpgIMG_4394.jpg
 
The motor and contactor are two different issues. The diagram on the motor plate is for the internal wiring of the motor for 120 or 2O8/230. After making your selection you end up with the wires marked "line" coming out of the motor. If you plugged them into the selected voltage, the motor should run. I suggest you try it as a first step. The controller is a separate issue. Beyond the secondary features, it is just a relay with two contacts. Like any relay, a low cuurent applied to the coil closes the contacts handling the heavy motor current. This allows the motor and controller to be wired with heavy wire from the power source but light gauge wire can be run long distances to operate the relay coil. I am sure you can get the sheet from Square D for wiring the controller. I ran the model number and it is current.

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@6PTsocket Thanks for the information; I'll contact Square D for connection information. Thanks!
 
There are four wires leaving the motor (B,W,R,G). Can I splice that with a typical extension cord, and just run the Red to a dead end or to neutral?
 
1Φ Magnetic Reversing Starter Diagram

Here's the diagram for your starter.

For 230V you will need a control transformer to power the operating coils, or replace the coils with 230V units. The heater element will also need to be changed for the higher voltage operation.

The diagram on the motor needs to modified for reversing operation, as the given diagram is for a single direction of rotation, at high or low voltage

Your going to need 5 wires to the motor not 4. One pair for the run winding, One pair for the start winding, AND a ground wire. Green should only be used for the ground conductor, not the motor winding, as it was previously wired.

A boat hoist without a ground wire is a mighty dangerous setup, Your friend is lucky no mishaps occurred.

SAF Ω

SqD 1Φ MagneticReversingStarter.jpg

1Φ 120V RevMotorConn.jpg
 
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There are four wires leaving the motor (B,W,R,G). Can I splice that with a typical extension cord, and just run the Red to a dead end or to neutral?
Read the motor plate. T1 goes to one side of the line and T2,T5 and T4 are tied together for the other side of the line. The cord cord gets T1 on one side a wire nut ties the other side of the cord to the other 3 wires. The ground wire should go to the motor shell or the ground screw or terminal that is probsbly some place on the motor. If you are having trouble undesstanding the motor plate, please get local help. If the wires markings are no longer legible, you have another problem. The olate tells yoy what to do with the remaining wites that are in the box on the motor.

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Thanks, I'm well aware that the guy that took it apart is lucky. He is a bit of a wild man. He dismantled the boat lift with a propylene torch, from the comfort of his surfboard.

Motor runs well, playing with control box now. Appreciate the help gents.
 








 
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