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Brook Crompton Parkinson motor wiring

brad.miller78

Plastic
Joined
Feb 23, 2018
Hi All,
I’m hoping someone can help me with my wiring problem. I fished this motor out of my works scrap bin ( I have found a lot of treasures in our scrap bin). It had a blown capacitor on it and the bearings were a bit rough. The only wiring it had on it was a 4 core cable terminated at the motor end only.
I’m hoping someone might have come across a design like this and knows how to wire it to get it running.
I have attached photos to show what I have got and what I have traced with motor windings etc.
Cheers
Brad
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how to wire it to get it running.

Single-phase, the "Z" leads are re-strappable / switchable for having the start circuit kick it off in one direction of rotation or the other.

IF .. it were a brushed, DC motor.. instead of an AC one.. the blackening on windings and cambric might be brush carbon soot.

As there are no brushes?

The blackening just might indicate the first order of business is to have it rewound.

I'd not class that as any sort of "treasure". Curse, rather.

What does it smell like? That can tell you if it is even worth dragging out a meter to check the windings.

Good chance it was in the right place when you found it.
 
The first picture definitely shows some winding arcing.

Thermite is right. Return it to where you found it. It was the proper place for it.
 
A1 and A2 are the run winding, Z1 and Z2 are the start winding. the thermal switch Is just an overheat cutout. I see no arcing on the windings that I would be worried about, looks more like a bit of greasy dust to me, but always worth testing with a megger to see if there is any earth leakage on the windings. In the present set up wiring, blue is neutral, black is live, and the brown would be a neutral feed from a current operated start relay which would turn off as the motor reached full speed and the current fell. This would be for operating on single phase supply.Hope this helps.
Phil
 
Brooks Crompton Parkinson motors had a small sheet metal cover on the motor end bell that revealed the terminals when the two screws were removed: on the inside of the cover was a paper sticker with the motor wiring diagram, listing the terminals that needed power and which wires to change to reverse motor rotation.

Photobucket
 
If you get stuck I have a PDF of the official Brook Crompton leaflet which gives diagrams for (most?) of their motors.

If you need it PM me your E-Mail and I'll see about getting it transferred via a FTP substitute service. Over 2 MB so far too large to attach.

However hermetic has it right. A terminals are run winding and Z start one. Its a single phase capacitor start motor. Standard connection is live to A 1 & Z1, neutral to A2 & Z2. Capacitor goes either between A1 and Z1 or between Z1 and the internal centrifugal switch. Yours goes between Z1 and the switch. To reverse switch Z1 and Z2 connections.

Odds are its dead as is. Only reason a business has to carefully remove a motor is so a replacement can be slotted in. When those motors burn out its almost invariably the start winding and they will be pretty much coal black. Most likely non burn out failure is centrifugal switch issues. Various designs over the years and they all fall apart or jam up eventually. No satisfactory fixes for industrial use but plenty of get-er-going for home shop ways.

Clive
 
Thanks for your replies guys, I just had another look at the windings and they are not blackened, it is paint. I’m assuming the manufacturer put paint on the wires to the thermal switch for some reason.
I have had it running when I first retrieved it. I replaced the capacitor and I ran the the black wire through a light dimmer. It started though I think I had to give it a manual spin (I’m not sure from memory).
The part that has baffled me is that the id plate says variable speed, which is why I connected the dimmer to the black.
I thought it was cap start however there is no centrifugal switch.
@clive603 I would love to take you up on the offer of the PDF. I will pm you my email. I did try to contact Brook Crompton Parkinson first but to no avail.

Btw the motor would have been thrown out by some other employee or someone off the street as the steel recycling bing is accessible to the public. I have got quite a few things out of there that have just needed a bit of tlc to get them going.
Cheers
Brad


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I just did a google search on the type listed on the id plate and found that csr stands for capacitor start and run. I was under the impression that you would need 2 different cap values for that type of setup.


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Nope, it seems to be (from what you say), a "PSC" motor, which can be speed adjusted with a dimmer type control (one made for motors works better), and uses a single capacitor that is not switched.

In that case, the blue and brown leads hook together. What is the capacitor value? It seems to say 24 uF on the label, which would indicate you are clearly correct, as that is a possible PSC motor value, but seems large for a 3/4 HP or so motor. (590W?).
 
Nope, it seems to be (from what you say), a "PSC" motor, which can be speed adjusted with a dimmer type control (one made for motors works better), and uses a single capacitor that is not switched.

In that case, the blue and brown leads hook together. What is the capacitor value? It seems to say 24 uF on the label, which would indicate you are clearly correct, as that is a possible PSC motor value, but seems large for a 3/4 HP or so motor. (590W?).

I also thought it was a high value capacitor, then when I had a close look at the id/info plate it says it’s a CSR type motor.


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CSR motors (abbreviation for "capacitor start capacitor run") MAY have a start capacitor and switch, with a smaller capacitor that remains in-circuit after the start switch has opened. It may not have to, and in your case, since it does start and run, it evidently does NOT have any second capacitor.

A single capacitor CSR could be called a PSC motor also.
 








 
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